Oh and if the intermediate shaft is on the wrong place and you have assembled it all back together...you can just reset the igition timing rather than stripping it all again if you have a timing light. (provided it isn't so far out that the hall sensor connector hits the block!)

As Brunty says you dont have to just line up the bottom pulley and camshaft pulley you also have to time up the intermediate shaft because that drives the distrubutor. If the intermediate shaft is timed up wrong the ignition timing will go out and it will be firing on the back wheel :lol: You can ch...

Does anyone know what I can do to stop the fuel surge in my Weber DTML. I am using it on my racecar and it runs fine on the road with the 8mm float height as prescribed elsewere on here, but on track I get really bad fuel surge on long right handers. I have managed to fix it by raising the float hei...

You need to admit that you have failed to learn from it....

G reg Grey GT in Daventry today near the tip, I wasn't in my Rocco :( How come you aren't in your Rocco Ash, no problems I hope? I was doing a tip run, so I was in the family estate car. Was it you I saw? Thats ok then....no it wasn't me, my car wouldn't cope with the speed humps anymore (or rather...

Ashrocco wrote:G reg Grey GT in Daventry today near the tip, I wasn't in my Rocco :(

How come you aren't in your Rocco Ash, no problems I hope?

If the car is set up for super unleaded then running super unleaded then that is the baseline....if you run lower octane then you are risking detonation and engine damage.

Mine were £50ish quid aswell trade, so I was guessing at £65ish retail.

They are fine on vibration...I use them on the road no problem at all.

Higher octane fuels are just more resistant to detonation so wont give you anymore power, but do allow you to run more ignition advance. So in a modern car that has knock sensors you will get more power because it will advance the ignition automatically, but on the older stuff you wont get a benefit...

650lb is way to high for the road....actually way too high for the track aswell!! Standard would be in the 150lb region at a guess.....I use 325lb in my car which is a daily driver, but part time racecar. That is more than you would want on the road really....its a bit rough, but I am willing to put...

GSF do whole car kits for the MK1 Golf that fit the Mk2 Rocco.

I think they are around £65-£70 and have all of the wishbone bushes, ARB bushes, Engine mounting bushes, gearbox mounting bushes, rear beam bushes etc Very good value!

I used them in my Mk2 Golf GTI racing car and they are fine!

The filler neck wont be the cause of the problem, but if there is crap coming from a corroded filler neck then that will cause problems if its getting into the carb. Clean the jets out in the carb and fit an inline filter into the fuel supply hose to the fuel pump. Pierburgs are prone to blocking up...

Could be the waxstat....fairly easy to try replacing first. Could be a blocked coolant channel in the intake manifold....a bit more difficult to fix (intake manifold off) Or I had a bizarre problem with my GTII where water had been leaking into the fusebox and had messed up the control for the elect...

Do it......I am building a 16v on carbs for mine as we speak

I recon the 16v conversion is damn good...roccos are so ligt that unless you are doing serious quick track stuff the 20v is a bit of over kill. Although if you are looking for serious track stuff take a look at the JabbaSport G60 Turbo Corrado....that engine in a rocco would be seriously quick!!! I ...