Bit of a late response..but if you haven't already found someone to do the conversion, it's not actually that hard if your car was originally a fuel injection model.
I can look out the notes I made when I did mine if it would be of use.

I found my Haynes manual finally...unfortunately, the pull rod (the long one across the bulkhead) is the only one I don't have measurements for.
Sorry

More than one way to skin a cat....it's in ETKA
Main pull rod that goes along the bulkead, 476mm. If it's the rod between the pedal and the linkage, or the length of the rod on the back of the servo, you'll have to give me some more time.

*edit
On second thoughts...that's the length of the rod. NOT ...

I still haven't found my haynes. I've been trying to think where I got the measurements from. It was either a Bentley manual, or an older Haynes book of lies.
I'll keep looking.

Ooops, really should have hit he search button first. Sorry.

Thanks for the link.

I found the lengths for most of the linkages, and scribbled them in my haynes manual....I'll have a look see if I can find it.

It is important to keep it factory length though, one of my linkages was 2mm out and the brakes ended up locking on due to constant dragging.

Hi,
Does anyone know of anywhere that does Fiberglass/carbon/kevlar/anything a bit different bonnets for Mk2's?

Mine has seen far better days, and I'm fed up of the rust shower each time I open the bonnet. So given the time and money I've spent on the rest of the car I thought I'd see if I could ...

Spindles, caliper carriers, calipers, discs, pads, disc retaining screws, flexi hoses (mk2 golf gti ones will do), 16v scirocco handbrake cables, backing plates (optional). I changed the brake proportioning valves on the master cylinder for the 16v ones too, but not sure if its strictly necessary.

I used to have this, it would go off if I stopped and restarted the engine straight away. New sensor didn't fix it, never did find out what was wrong, it stopped doing it when I changed the engine, so it kind of points to a wiring issue. A loose connection or something that got fixed when I was ...

There's an idle control valve, lives on the back of the inlet manifold if I remember right. circular thing with a pipe coming out of each end. They get gunked up and stop opening/closing. Check its getting voltage, and give it a good blast of carb cleaner, or even better soak it in petrol overnight.

I've got a custom one from Pitstop Developments (who aren't around anymore I believe) in mine. It's the same length and height as the Golf Rallye cooler, but its a bit thicker.
Front View
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6173/6179441514_6d799c2709_z.jpg

During making the boost pipes....
http ...

Generally cars with bias valves like that don't have split front/back circuits. the back brakes are fed (often by a balance bar pedal box) by a single pipe that goes to a t-piece at the back axle. Hence only one outlet. This set up is normally found on track/race cars, they tend to be maintaned more ...

Watch the strut top while waggling wheel top & bottom. If it moves, its something suspension related. If it doesn't the wheel bearings shot.

I'd go for wheel bearing being shot though, have had a front go in the past without it making any noise (or the car was too loud to hear it lol).

Sounds like you need a swirl pot in the fuel system to even out the fuel supply.

GTXTRA wrote:Personally I find it's fine - I've got one on three cars, I do know that Ant/Autoad found it too boomy on a mk1 though and reverted to the 2'' system.

Cheers, I guess I'll just have to man up and deal with it