recently got a 92 rocco scala
running a 1.8 FI engine
1st issue is it doesnt like to start from cold, ive checked the 5th injector and it sprays fine so ive put it back in and resealed it, not sure what else to check, ive changed one of the leads and also the plugs
2nd issue is when in traffic the water temp goes up to just over 3/4 and the oil temp goes from 90 to 120 all this happens very quickly and the car then runs a bit crap when its really hot
3rd issue, when its warm and you dip the clutch to come to a stop the revs drop right off and some times cuts out
on a run the car is great
i dont know water cooled engines so please be gentle with me
thanks marc
engine running issues
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Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
Re: engine running issues
Other people on here will probably have more useful things to say, but here's my tuppence-worth:
Cold starting: why did you change one plug lead? In my experience, ignition problems are the most common cause of starting issues, maybe there's something else wrong there. Also, electronics are quite sensitive to temperature, so maybe your cutting-out issues are ignition-related?
Temperature going to 3/4 in traffic: not out of the ordinary, but maybe flush out the rad, and change the coolant. Maybe your waterpump is on the way out, or maybe your fan isn't kicking in when it should, perhaps the temperature switch is faulty.
Cold starting: why did you change one plug lead? In my experience, ignition problems are the most common cause of starting issues, maybe there's something else wrong there. Also, electronics are quite sensitive to temperature, so maybe your cutting-out issues are ignition-related?
Temperature going to 3/4 in traffic: not out of the ordinary, but maybe flush out the rad, and change the coolant. Maybe your waterpump is on the way out, or maybe your fan isn't kicking in when it should, perhaps the temperature switch is faulty.
1985 GTL 1.8
Member number 928 (wish I had one)
Member number 928 (wish I had one)
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Re: engine running issues
Always worth replacing dissy cap and rotor arm along with HT leads if you don't know how old they are.
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Re: engine running issues
right then
running a little better
have changed the WUR and starts a little nicer
have fitted a new rad temp senser and the fan now kicks in at an oil temp of 90 degres and stays on longer than before
when its warm it still dropps the revs right down when you take your foot off and some times cuts out
is there a throttle control valve or some thing
going to get some new leads and dizzy cap and rotor arm etc next month
thanks marc
running a little better
have changed the WUR and starts a little nicer
have fitted a new rad temp senser and the fan now kicks in at an oil temp of 90 degres and stays on longer than before
when its warm it still dropps the revs right down when you take your foot off and some times cuts out
is there a throttle control valve or some thing
going to get some new leads and dizzy cap and rotor arm etc next month
thanks marc
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Re: engine running issues
Have you checked all the vacuum pipes ? Nothing loose, split or perished ?
Don't ask me....it was like that when i got here !
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Re: engine running issues
There's an idle control valve, lives on the back of the inlet manifold if I remember right. circular thing with a pipe coming out of each end. They get gunked up and stop opening/closing. Check its getting voltage, and give it a good blast of carb cleaner, or even better soak it in petrol overnight.
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Re: engine running issues
Should have an Aux Air Valve on the back of the inlet manifold. check the pipes aren't split and the wiring isn't broken. Should also be an Idle Boost Valve on the driver's suspension turret. There are tests for them in the Haynes manual, if you have one.
1992 Scala ABF - SOLD
1989 Scala track toy. Dormant
1986 GTX - Lunar mileage but still a good un
Mk1 Classic Touring Car Project...slowly does it
1984 1.6 GT Project. 69k In progress
1.6GL. 2 Owners, 60k. SOLD
1.6 GL - 100k miles -Back on the road!
1989 Scala track toy. Dormant
1986 GTX - Lunar mileage but still a good un
Mk1 Classic Touring Car Project...slowly does it
1984 1.6 GT Project. 69k In progress
1.6GL. 2 Owners, 60k. SOLD
1.6 GL - 100k miles -Back on the road!