before i had it, my van was signwritten with stickers. you can clearly see where they used to be, and it's annoying me. i tried with t-cut by hand, then 3m perfectit and finesseit with a machine, but it's still there :'(
any suggestions from you bodywork gurus what i can do to remove it? can't afford to paint it, although i know that's probably the easiest way
Forum Update: This forum is now a legacy platform with limited activity. We recommend joining our Facebook group for the latest discussions and updates. The forum will remain online and usable but it's classed as an archive.
Users are NOT sync'd between the website and the forum. This means you MUST create an account for both.
Users are NOT sync'd between the website and the forum. This means you MUST create an account for both.
old signwriting
Forum rules
Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
- Risocco
- Posts: 1374
- Joined: Wed Apr 01, 2009 1:09 am
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Costa-Del-Kidderminster
Re: old signwriting
What machine did you use? Think your gonna need a heavy cut compound like fast cut if you have access to 3M products.
1983 GL
1986 GT
1994 Corrado VR6
1986 GT
1994 Corrado VR6
- essextom
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 6:27 pm
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Chelmsford
Re: old signwriting
try some farecla g3, its a more course compound, use a mop (electric buffer) with a decent sponge head and be carefull not to burn the paint (get the mop sponge wet before use and keep it damp, also watch the edges of the mop). then use one of the softer black mop heads with the 3m finesse. should do the job.
http://www.dreadnoughtcustoms.com
https://www.instagram.com/dreadnought_customs
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtoApB ... hK3tDfTW_Q
82 mk2 gti - 88 mk2 scala 20vt - 93 GT2 2.0 8v - 84 Tropic 1.6 auto
https://www.instagram.com/dreadnought_customs
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtoApB ... hK3tDfTW_Q
82 mk2 gti - 88 mk2 scala 20vt - 93 GT2 2.0 8v - 84 Tropic 1.6 auto
-
Nate
- Posts: 4045
- Joined: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:37 pm
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Cirencester / Swindon
Re: old signwriting
was actually considering some graphics or hi-viz markings to hide some of the rust spots on the sidesTim_R wrote:Vinyl wrap it!
-
Nate
- Posts: 4045
- Joined: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:37 pm
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Cirencester / Swindon
Re: old signwriting
it's just an ebay cheapy. looks identical to the sealey one. only got foam heads for it. would i be better with wool?Risocco wrote:What machine did you use? Think your gonna need a heavy cut compound like fast cut if you have access to 3M products.
- essextom
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 6:27 pm
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Chelmsford
Re: old signwriting
no dont use wool heads they get hot quickly and burn the paint. foam ones are good. you will be able to get softer heads from your local brown brothers or paint/bodyshop suppliers.
http://www.dreadnoughtcustoms.com
https://www.instagram.com/dreadnought_customs
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtoApB ... hK3tDfTW_Q
82 mk2 gti - 88 mk2 scala 20vt - 93 GT2 2.0 8v - 84 Tropic 1.6 auto
https://www.instagram.com/dreadnought_customs
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtoApB ... hK3tDfTW_Q
82 mk2 gti - 88 mk2 scala 20vt - 93 GT2 2.0 8v - 84 Tropic 1.6 auto
-
Nate
- Posts: 4045
- Joined: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:37 pm
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Cirencester / Swindon
Re: old signwriting
been shopping :) spent half the morning traipsing round swindon trying to find polishing heads to fit my machine. think i've fond out why it was so cheap! it's not either 5/8unf or m14 thread, but some weird oddball thread. managed to find some cheapies that are entirely plastic (no metal thread insert) that will force onto it ::)
got a nice firm one (snigger) and a very soft one. been over it with some autoglym paint renovator and the firm pad, then some autosmart polish and the soft one, and most of the writing has gone and so have all the swirly marks :) it's never going to look perfect without some paint, but big improvement. wishing i'd done some 'before' photos now!
thanks guys :)
got a nice firm one (snigger) and a very soft one. been over it with some autoglym paint renovator and the firm pad, then some autosmart polish and the soft one, and most of the writing has gone and so have all the swirly marks :) it's never going to look perfect without some paint, but big improvement. wishing i'd done some 'before' photos now!
thanks guys :)
- The Autoad
- Posts: 732
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 5:57 pm
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Nottingham
- Contact:
Re: old signwriting
2000 grit wet and dry paper used wet should remove any residue from the transfers and cut the paint back that has been faded by the environment around the graphics. If 2000 does not do it, drop to 1500 grit.
Then machine polish with liquid compund G3 and a compund mop head (spray some water on the panel, but don't drench it) until the flatting marks have been removed. Machine Mart do a good Sealey rotary polisher, but the mop heads MM supply are rubbish. The farecla mop heads are pretty good.
After a G3, give it a good polish.
Then machine polish with liquid compund G3 and a compund mop head (spray some water on the panel, but don't drench it) until the flatting marks have been removed. Machine Mart do a good Sealey rotary polisher, but the mop heads MM supply are rubbish. The farecla mop heads are pretty good.
After a G3, give it a good polish.
Your friendly neighbourhood Scirocco restorer for hire

