Front lower strut brace fitting...

[PeteGLi]

What go-for-it1 said about the dished washers and, ideally, you should have the car's weight on its wheels before finally torquing up the bolts.

The tapped captive nut and the threaded portion of the bolt should be "dry" - do not use copperslip or other such stuff on it, although you can use it on the smooth portion of the bolt to prevent the bolt seizing to the metal sleeve in the wishbone bush.

[wasted]

Yep, thankfully did get that bit right - there was another thread on here somewhere about making sure the threads were left clean and dry. I'll be taking the lot apart again this evening and refitting I think - I am making sure the weight of the car's on the wheels before I torque the bolts back up, primarily because I have no axle stands and I don't trust my jack!

[go-for-it1]

Nothing moved out of alignment, aside from the wishbones separating very slightly (the wheels were off the ground, so I just moved them back into place before fitting the bolts). Is that important?

No mate, I have a lower brace to fit but was worried it might all spring when the bolts are removed without the cars weight on them.
Rob

[wasted]

Ah right - no, it was all fine actually. Shouldn't be a problem ;)

[rocco balboa]

if fitting a lower strut brace is the anti-roll bar then not needed really as the brace takes over in effect. True or not so ?

[Tim_R]

They do 2 different things. The strut brace stops the wishbone front mounting points flexing under load whereas the anti roll bar links the wishbones to each other to help reduce body roll under cornering.