Put my battery in the boot

MrD · Post by **MrD** » Fri May 06, 2011 10:56 pm

Went and got a marine grade battery box the other day,connections on the top,and a couple of fag lighter sockets,bolted to the rear bench,all the earth's in the front have been grounded,to the battery tray,then using the middle rear belt point in the rear.as a grounding point.In the back.
Using 4awg gauge cable,which is what I ran my power amp on.
Effects are much brighter headlights,and my rev limiter seems to have stopped working,car feels much more lively.
Went out in it this eve,pulled over and asked my mate for directions to his new place,turned it off so I could hear him,went to turn it back on and nothing ! Had a bit of a panic,until I found that I had left the fuse in the main power lead,had blown that drawing current to start it,stuck a bit of metal bar in,and it's been fine,got some sorting out to do tomorrow,will bung some pics up.
Can tell the battery is not up front in the handling department too,really was not expecting to make so much difference

wassell · Post by **wassell** » Sun May 08, 2011 9:52 pm

handling aside, could the improvement on the battery power not be linked to the new cables you have used? dont mean to piss on your bonfire, just curoius :0

Wassell

Nate · Post by **Nate** » Mon May 09, 2011 6:54 am

MrD wrote:I found that I had left the fuse in the main power lead,had blown that drawing current to start it,stuck a bit of metal bar in,and it's been fine

definately needs a fuse on a cable run that long, and as close to the battery as possible

MrD · Post by **MrD** » Mon May 09, 2011 8:25 am

Yeah think I am going to take the fuse holder from the front,where it was close too the battery,and move it in the back,think it was a big hefty one that I blew.just weird how it fired up on the drive at home ok,and then when I stopped and turned it off it popped it.
Didn't get chance to get out there over the weekend,but will have another tinker when I get back from my job this morn.

Nate · Post by **Nate** » Mon May 09, 2011 11:23 am

how have you connected the +ve?

MrD · Post by **MrD** » Mon May 09, 2011 2:31 pm

The fuse it blew was a 60 amp !! I just connected all the positive connections to the cable that was for my amp,all the negative connections are earthed on the battery tray,via a large blot and washer,holding the clamp down..
Some pics,the battery box has 4 bolts through the ply,and the body,and large washers,battery lid is held down with the metal strap,going to be doing a bit more to this,as I don't want it coming free if I have a prang..

Still need some tidying up,when I get time...

MrD · Post by **MrD** » Tue May 10, 2011 12:29 pm

Went for a blast and the limiter seems to be working again,not sure what happened there...

Nate · Post by **Nate** » Tue May 10, 2011 8:04 pm

MrD wrote:The fuse it blew was a 60 amp !!

it will do. think about it, if you've got a 90A alternator, and you just started it, then there's going to be not far off 90A going to the battery, albeit only for a short time. and a trousers more than that being drawn when you actually start the engine - that's why you see things like "600A starting power" written on your battery

jbo · Post by **jbo** » Fri Jun 17, 2011 4:31 pm

Nate wrote:
MrD wrote:The fuse it blew was a 60 amp !!
it will do. think about it, if you've got a 90A alternator, and you just started it, then there's going to be not far off 90A going to the battery, albeit only for a short time. and a trousers more than that being drawn when you actually start the engine - that's why you see things like "600A starting power" written on your battery

He's right, you dont run a fuse on this. Good luck finding a 600a fuse

The original circuit doesnty have one for the same reason. Just make sure you hav instaleld the wire away from anythgin that coudl split it and short it out and youll be fine.

I wouldnt mind tryign the same thign myself. Poss welding in battery tray....

Nate · Post by **Nate** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 9:24 am

jbo wrote:He's right, you dont run a fuse on this.

whoa! i didn't say don't put a fuse in it. a cable that size and length definately needs a fuse in it. if it chafes on anything and shorts out, it will be byebye car very quickly without a fuse.

jbo · Post by **jbo** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 9:54 am

Nate wrote:
jbo wrote:He's right, you dont run a fuse on this.
whoa! i didn't say don't put a fuse in it. a cable that size and length definately needs a fuse in it. if it chafes on anything and shorts out, it will be byebye car very quickly without a fuse.

Where the hell would you get a fuse that size?! Or woudl it be more of a breaker?

Nate · Post by **Nate** » Tue Jun 28, 2011 1:04 pm

scrappy would be my first port of call probably. go plundering something that doesn't have it's battery under the bonnet. transits have the battery under the seat, and they have the -ve connected to the chassis via a "fuseable link". mercs have batteries under the rear seat or in the boot, so they must have something similar. you can buy 600A fuses, but they ain't cheap

jbo · Post by **jbo** » Wed Jun 29, 2011 11:14 am

Nate wrote:scrappy would be my first port of call probably. go plundering something that doesn't have it's battery under the bonnet. transits have the battery under the seat, and they have the -ve connected to the chassis via a "fuseable link". mercs have batteries under the rear seat or in the boot, so they must have something similar. you can buy 600A fuses, but they ain't cheap

Ahh ok cool. Sorry for gettign it wrong. i didnt know sucha thign existed!

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