Just about to overhaul front suspension, Any things to look out for?

[scirocco_ne]

As the title states im fitting new, arms, poly bushes, rack, tie rod, track rods ends, balljoints, shocks, springs and top mounts and refurbished arb with bushes this week.

Is there any bits to watch out for or awkward things i need to work around? Like the arb removal etc?

I plan to just throw it on axle stands and remove and refit the lot new over 2 days as ill be painting factory sealer rip patches around the arms etc too with epoxy primer.

Thanks
Mick

[mark1gls]

Are you fitting new bump stops and covers as well?

You might need to jack up/support the wishbones (arms) when removing the ARB.

Be very careful not to shear the studs which hold the back of the ARB to the car, clean the threads well and soak with penetration oil, when undoing the nuts, loosen a little then tighten back up, loosen a little more the tighten up a little and so this should stop locking up the nut with dirt/rust on the thread as that's how you can shear it off....

Have you got a Haynes manual as that has the measurement for the new steering rack and track rods?

[mark1gls]

I found it easier to loosen the big nut on the strut which holds the shock insert in the strut tube while it's on the car unless you have a big vice bolted down to a table, the nut can be difficult to loosen so you can get plenty of leverage when it's on the car.

I use a big Stilsons to undo mine, you can just about fit them on the nut through the spring gaps, the wheels do need to be up in the air.

When the steering rack is off the car carefully inspect the bulk head around the fixings for the clamps as it can crack.

Once all done you will need to centralize your steering rack then possibly removing your steering wheel so it's straight once the rack is dead centre then get the tracking and camber angle set up again, might be worth finding a good garage to do this as not all places will, cost about £70-100 for a proper set up done on the car.

[mr.brown]

The most likely thing to go wrong is the bottom bolt that holds the rear shock absorber. This often seizes in the metal sleeve at the bottom of the shock absorber and may have to cut out. So start there.

If that comes undone easily then the rest will be plain sailing.

The studs that Mark refers to above are part of the rear wishbone bracket. There are two studs coming out of the body that the bracket itself attaches to. Be SUPER careful with those - if you snap one then you'll be cutting holes inside the car to get access to fit a new one (don't ask me how I know!!).

The front wishbone bolts are notorious for losing their thread too. This time it's a captive NUT and replacing this involves cutting/welding too.

Front ARB end clamps - these also have studs so be careful with those. Also, the clamps may have been replaced with flimsier items in the past which might twist and break.

Rear ARB clamps - inner ones are bolt on affairs - these may be rusted solid. Outer clamps could be rusted garbage too. Well worth checking condition before you start as it may take a few days to get replacements.

Steering rack - be very careful with the steering rack UJ boot - very hard to get hold of. Not sure why you're replacing the rack? If it's because of play/wobbling - check the bearing at the base of the steering column first.

Good luck with it all - all that should totally transform the car!

[mark1gls]

When fitting it all back together I like to smear the bolts in copper grease especially the rear suspension bottom bolt as you don't want that seizing in the strut, I did read about copper grease the bolt and PTFE tape on the bit which slots in to the strut..

Have a look at Briano1234 thread as lots of links to running gear etc as the Mk1 Golf cabriolet is the same as Mk2 Scirocco running gear.

https://vwgolfmk1.org.uk/forum/index.ph ... -of-things

[scirocco_ne]

Thanks for all the advice, I really wish i was not replying on a mobile arrrghh

I have new bumps stops, covers and also outer stainless arb brackets so hopefully it will help.

I also have shocker bodies painted up ready for new inserts and new new bolts for the bodies (not the offset ones sadly)

It sounds like the usual of just been careful with rust and i have my blowtorch and copper grease ready :)

The plan is for everything to be super smooth and shiney to stay clean easy :) even the rack and new sus arms have been painted too gloss black top to bottom .

Is there any part of the suspension system that needs a procedure for removal? Will the arb just come off no hassle as long as the bolts are free and the arms are already out the way?

As regards the rack can i just centralise it by winding it to its end stop and counting back? If the arms etc are out the way will it be alot easier to fit. I have not done a rack in a long long time and if its a hassle i will leave it be get it done at the garage before tracking.

The only reason ive changed the rack is because its old and hopefully doing it all in one swoop will keep the steering nice tight and light too. My 205gti has heavy steering after standing and its annoying as hell.


Thanks Again
Mick

[mark1gls]

I found out you will need to remove 1 of the track rods from the steering rack so you can get the rack out as it does not fit though the holes in the body either end, mine was a Mk1 Golf Cabriolet so you might be luckly with a Scirocco?
Haynes has measurements from the end of the rack to the track rods and track rod ends, set it up and get the locking nut near where it needs to be and remove 1 track rod then install the rack and re attach the tack rod and end fit to hubs and steering column.

I centralized my rack by counting the turns lock to lock and back to the middle, its something like 2 and 1/4 turns of the steering wheel then I removed the steering wheel so it was straight and checked the amount of turns left then right.
When you get the tracking done they should lock the steering wheel straight then adjust the tracking on each side.

It is possible to replace the rack with the engine in place but there's not alot of room behind there, you will need to undo the exhaust down pipe (remove C clips) so you can move the down pipe out of the way, you will also need to get a jack underneath the engine as you have to remove the rear engine mount as well. Took me a good day to change just my steering rack.

I ran my car for 6 years without the rubber UJ boot and water/dirt finally got in my rack, lasted for a good 200,000 miles before I replaced mine...
The steering is heavy at low speeds but it should lighten up once moving and steering with a thumb and 1 finger should be possible..
Try not to move the steering wheel while stationary as it's not good for the rack fixings, bulk head or your arms..

To protect the rubber UJ boot from the heat of the exhaust down pipe I also fitted a plumbers soldering mat, it just wraps around and I used stainless steel cable ties to hold it in place, the boots are getting expensive to buy now and this stops as much heat cooking the rubber over time.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Ma ... rk:11:pf:0

[mark1gls]

Forgot to add... Watch the brown earth wire on the steering rack.

[scirocco_ne]

I found out you will need to remove 1 of the track rods from the steering rack so you can get the rack out as it does not fit though the holes in the body either end, mine was a Mk1 Golf Cabriolet so you might be luckly with a Scirocco?
Haynes has measurements from the end of the rack to the track rods and track rod ends, set it up and get the locking nut near where it needs to be and remove 1 track rod then install the rack and re attach the tack rod and end fit to hubs and steering column.

I centralized my rack by counting the turns lock to lock and back to the middle, its something like 2 and 1/4 turns of the steering wheel then I removed the steering wheel so it was straight and checked the amount of turns left then right.
When you get the tracking done they should lock the steering wheel straight then adjust the tracking on each side.

It is possible to replace the rack with the engine in place but there's not alot of room behind there, you will need to undo the exhaust down pipe (remove C clips) so you can move the down pipe out of the way, you will also need to get a jack underneath the engine as you have to remove the rear engine mount as well. Took me a good day to change just my steering rack.

I ran my car for 6 years without the rubber UJ boot and water/dirt finally got in my rack, lasted for a good 200,000 miles before I replaced mine...
The steering is heavy at low speeds but it should lighten up once moving and steering with a thumb and 1 finger should be possible..
Try not to move the steering wheel while stationary as it's not good for the rack fixings, bulk head or your arms..

To protect the rubber UJ boot from the heat of the exhaust down pipe I also fitted a plumbers soldering mat, it just wraps around and I used stainless steel cable ties to hold it in place, the boots are getting expensive to buy now and this stops as much heat cooking the rubber over time.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Ma ... rk:11:pf:0

From what you have done it sounds like i should avoid doing the rack for now. It's winter and i only have a few days to do it so that sounds too risky as its a tight fit like you said. I will get it done at my pals garage as its tracked up.

This is why i asked for advice if you had not posted i could of been in a nightmare situation with no car for work after the few days are up. I am a complete perfectionist so take me time haha.

Thanks
Mick

[mark1gls]

Sound like a good plan as you have a lot to do already without replacing the steering rack, track rods and track rod end.