Forum Update: This forum is now a legacy platform with limited activity. We recommend joining our Facebook group for the latest discussions and updates. The forum will remain online and usable but it's classed as an archive.
Users are NOT sync'd between the website and the forum. This means you MUST create an account for both.
Users are NOT sync'd between the website and the forum. This means you MUST create an account for both.
Boot Popper
Forum rules
Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
Boot Popper
New Played with Boot Poppers Before But anybody got any Advice ? or purchased kits before? thanks in advance
-
Nate
- Posts: 4045
- Joined: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:37 pm
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Cirencester / Swindon
Re: Boot Popper
As it happens, I've just fitted one to the other half's MG. I'll go grab some pics and report back...
-
Nate
- Posts: 4045
- Joined: Thu Apr 02, 2009 10:37 pm
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Cirencester / Swindon
Re: Boot Popper
bits needed:
boot release switch for dash. these saab ones are easy to find, easy to fit and easy to wire in also easy to add a remote function via your alarm (if suported)
universal 2 wire solenoid. lots on ebay, or try your local motor factor or autoelectrician
a selection of suitable wire (get a few different colours to keep things nice and clear)
4 pin relay this one will probably do the trick. cheap as from scrappy or maplin do them for a quid
fuses and fuse holders
spade connectors (5mm ones needed for saab switch)
solder and heatshrink, or crimp connectors. soldering is preferable and tends to be more reliable, but crimps will work fine, particularly if you get the ones that have heatshrink already on them
possibly a short piece of bicycle brake cable, complete with nipple end and crimp on cable finisher
selection of tools, including (but not limited to) drill, screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutter, multimeter (or test light, or power probe)
refreshing beverage of your choice to sip whilst standing back and admiring your handywork
i'm assuming that you're wanting to remove the boot lock altogether, so do that first, and weld a bit of steel into the hole. filler or fiberglass on their own will more than likely crack.
as i haven't looked at a rocco boot latch for many years, i can't remember exactly what they look like. there will be something on it you either need to push or pull (pull for preference if you can mount the solenoid in the right place) to release the latch. on the MG, the lever on the latch needed to pull to the o/s of the car in order to release. this made for a nice and easy installation.
the solenoid comes with a little metal bar to mount it. drill 2 holes into the steel of the boot so you can attach it, screw it to the solenoid 1st, then to the bootlid.
you also get a metal actuating bar. i decided it would be easier to chop this down so it was just a little stump, then feed the brake cable thru a hole in the latch lever and join this to the solenoid rod with the clamp supplied in the kit. this meant i could leave the original key operated release and the solenoid wouldn't interfere with it.
a few pics of the solenoid mounted. you can get "proper" cable ends to crimp onto the cut end of the brake cable, but i forgot to pick one up, so just used a crimp on bullet connector. it just stops the end of the cable fraying, and makes it look neater
the mounting "bracket" is a bit hard to see, it's hidden under the actuating rod.
next up is to cut a hole for the switch. i opted for inside the centre console on the mg, as they are so comically easy to break into the cabin. looks very "factory" even if i say so myself
then it's just a case of wiring it up.
the saab switch is conveniently a momentary change over switch. there are 3 pins (can't remember the numbers to identify them, but it only takes a few seconds with the multimeter to figure it out. basically pins 1 and 2 are normally connected, but when you push the button, pins 1 and 3 are connected.
connect up wires as follows:
solenoid comes with 2 wires, these are normally blue and green. you'll need to work out which one needs to be earth to make it pull. hold one wire on battery earth and tap the other on the +ve. if it pulls in, note which wire is earth. if it pops out, switch the wires round and try again.
connect up the wire from the solenoid that needs to be +ve (in my case, this was green) to the relay pin 87
relay pin 86 connects to battery +ve, via an inline fuse holder. on the MG, i took a feed from the back of the lighter socket. on the rocco, the back of the fusebox is nice and convenient to grab and unswitched +ve from a spare pin on the back. use testlight, power probe or multimeter to find one.
pin 85 on the relay goes to earth (i just use a short loop of wire with a ring connector on, and hook it onto the screw that secures the relay)
pin 86 goes to what i'm calling pin 1 on the saab boot switch.
pin 2 on the switch can be connected to an alarm with a boot release function, via another fuse. an alarm with this will have a boot button on the fob, and a wire that momentarily goes live when you press the button (refer to the alarm wiring diagram) If your alarm only has a negative pulse for this, drop me a PM and i'll give you a simple little circuit to swap it to a live pulse
pin 3 needs a live feed (via another fuse) you can either take this from the same place you took the feed for the relay (but that will mean the switch will always work, making it easier for someone to break in) or you can take an ignition switched live (again, this is available from the back of the fusebox, get your multimeter out!) or, for added security you can take a switched feed from something else, such as the dash lighting (switch only works when lights are on) or the brake light switch (switch only works with foot on brake)
crude circuit diagram
once you've got it wired in, check it all works as it should, then step back and admire your handywork, sip on a refreshing beverage and make knowing faces whilst nodding slowly
boot release switch for dash. these saab ones are easy to find, easy to fit and easy to wire in also easy to add a remote function via your alarm (if suported)
universal 2 wire solenoid. lots on ebay, or try your local motor factor or autoelectrician
a selection of suitable wire (get a few different colours to keep things nice and clear)
4 pin relay this one will probably do the trick. cheap as from scrappy or maplin do them for a quid
fuses and fuse holders
spade connectors (5mm ones needed for saab switch)
solder and heatshrink, or crimp connectors. soldering is preferable and tends to be more reliable, but crimps will work fine, particularly if you get the ones that have heatshrink already on them
possibly a short piece of bicycle brake cable, complete with nipple end and crimp on cable finisher
selection of tools, including (but not limited to) drill, screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutter, multimeter (or test light, or power probe)
refreshing beverage of your choice to sip whilst standing back and admiring your handywork
i'm assuming that you're wanting to remove the boot lock altogether, so do that first, and weld a bit of steel into the hole. filler or fiberglass on their own will more than likely crack.
as i haven't looked at a rocco boot latch for many years, i can't remember exactly what they look like. there will be something on it you either need to push or pull (pull for preference if you can mount the solenoid in the right place) to release the latch. on the MG, the lever on the latch needed to pull to the o/s of the car in order to release. this made for a nice and easy installation.
the solenoid comes with a little metal bar to mount it. drill 2 holes into the steel of the boot so you can attach it, screw it to the solenoid 1st, then to the bootlid.
you also get a metal actuating bar. i decided it would be easier to chop this down so it was just a little stump, then feed the brake cable thru a hole in the latch lever and join this to the solenoid rod with the clamp supplied in the kit. this meant i could leave the original key operated release and the solenoid wouldn't interfere with it.
a few pics of the solenoid mounted. you can get "proper" cable ends to crimp onto the cut end of the brake cable, but i forgot to pick one up, so just used a crimp on bullet connector. it just stops the end of the cable fraying, and makes it look neater
the mounting "bracket" is a bit hard to see, it's hidden under the actuating rod.
next up is to cut a hole for the switch. i opted for inside the centre console on the mg, as they are so comically easy to break into the cabin. looks very "factory" even if i say so myself
then it's just a case of wiring it up.
the saab switch is conveniently a momentary change over switch. there are 3 pins (can't remember the numbers to identify them, but it only takes a few seconds with the multimeter to figure it out. basically pins 1 and 2 are normally connected, but when you push the button, pins 1 and 3 are connected.
connect up wires as follows:
solenoid comes with 2 wires, these are normally blue and green. you'll need to work out which one needs to be earth to make it pull. hold one wire on battery earth and tap the other on the +ve. if it pulls in, note which wire is earth. if it pops out, switch the wires round and try again.
connect up the wire from the solenoid that needs to be +ve (in my case, this was green) to the relay pin 87
relay pin 86 connects to battery +ve, via an inline fuse holder. on the MG, i took a feed from the back of the lighter socket. on the rocco, the back of the fusebox is nice and convenient to grab and unswitched +ve from a spare pin on the back. use testlight, power probe or multimeter to find one.
pin 85 on the relay goes to earth (i just use a short loop of wire with a ring connector on, and hook it onto the screw that secures the relay)
pin 86 goes to what i'm calling pin 1 on the saab boot switch.
pin 2 on the switch can be connected to an alarm with a boot release function, via another fuse. an alarm with this will have a boot button on the fob, and a wire that momentarily goes live when you press the button (refer to the alarm wiring diagram) If your alarm only has a negative pulse for this, drop me a PM and i'll give you a simple little circuit to swap it to a live pulse
pin 3 needs a live feed (via another fuse) you can either take this from the same place you took the feed for the relay (but that will mean the switch will always work, making it easier for someone to break in) or you can take an ignition switched live (again, this is available from the back of the fusebox, get your multimeter out!) or, for added security you can take a switched feed from something else, such as the dash lighting (switch only works when lights are on) or the brake light switch (switch only works with foot on brake)
crude circuit diagram
once you've got it wired in, check it all works as it should, then step back and admire your handywork, sip on a refreshing beverage and make knowing faces whilst nodding slowly
Re: Boot Popper
Great ! Thanks for the reply this has made it allot easier :D and i must say good job clean and crisp done the right way :) thankyou