Oil pick up worth dropping sump and cleaning?

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MacColl
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Location: East Ayrshire, Scotland

Oil pick up worth dropping sump and cleaning?

Post by MacColl »

I've read up on 8v MK2 Golfs (long term project) about how it is really worth cleaning the oil pickup, dropping sump, removing and cleaning the strainer out which ensures the oil is free flowing especially on start up. I am paranoid that my car sounds oil starved for a split second on start up sometimes, probably normal clatter of cam/bucket tappets until the oil quickly quietens them down.

I take it this would also be the case for the 1.8 EX engine on my 89 GT? I take it the sump has plenty of access on the car for all the bolts? Remember fighting with a Polo's sump for access.

I was going to change/clean up the sump anyway as it looks very rusty and have a look at the pickup.

Thoughts? cheers


Nate
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Re: Oil pick up worth dropping sump and cleaning?

Post by Nate »

if you can get it on a pair of ramps to get the front end up in the air a bit, the sump should come off nice and easy. had to do mine as i managed to somehow break the oil pickup pipe off whilst driving it :shock:

just a bit of a pain coz you're lying on your back working above you, but there are much worse job to do.

small tip though - drain the oil before you pull the sump off ;)


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MacColl
Posts: 578
Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:47 am
fill in the right answer: 10
Location: East Ayrshire, Scotland

Re: Oil pick up worth dropping sump and cleaning?

Post by MacColl »

Broke off oil pickup :shocking:

Recently been under the car fighting wish bones, ARB and other suspension so not put off with the swear inducing type of work involved here :yup:

Looks like there is far more access than the Polo had :good: and thanks for the tip on the oil :hehe:

Cheers


McMad
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 4:18 pm

Re: Oil pick up worth dropping sump and cleaning?

Post by McMad »

Haynes Golf GTI Performance Manual (Tim Styles) mentions that it`s possible to get a "film" on the mesh on the oil pick up which reduces flow. When I first got my car it clattered like a good un on start up so after sourcing a spare motor just in case, I put 1/2 litre of Auto Trans Fluid into the sump and ran around (sensibly) for about 6-700 miles. Changed oil and filter to semi synthetic 15-40 and now the motor runs better and MUCH quieter. Since the engine seems oil tight, the next oil change is to fully synthetic which I have used in all of my cars over the last 35 years with complete sucess. I had a `92 Colt 16v 1600 which did 120K hard miles and when the head came off (oil leak - blown gasket - common) it was as clean as a whistle and NO discernible wear on anything!

When I came to change the oil on the GT II, I discovered some clown had stipped the oil drain plug so I had to replace the sump. This is fairly straightforward except for two bolts at the clutch end which are swine to get at. A jet wash before you start and a good inspection lamp will help. The problem is getting these two bolts back in as it seems like a good plan to sit the bolt in the socket and offer this up (blind) to the threaded hole. If you do this, there is a good chance that you start the bolt at an angle and it then cross threads! A better idea is to replace the bolts with socket headed ones and use a long ball end allen key - at least you can see what you are doing! Its also a good idea to use a rubber sump gasket - no more leaks!

While the sump is off, it`s a good idea to pour out the "dregs" onto several sheets of newspaper or kitchen roll and leave the oil to soak in. You can then examine any bits you find and draw suitable conclusions! And yes, I am VERY anal about BITS!

John


93 GT2 Grey, 15" BBS RA
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