Drive shaft play and coilover question

[eefy]

How do all, had a few issues with the rocco that have been getting worse so,

Drive shaft play-

noticed some knocking, not all the time just now and then, today while i was adjusting the camber (more on that further down) i did a check off all the bushes etc, all tight but the passenger side drive shaft had some lateral play in it ie moved in and out of the UJ's anouy 5-10mm, so I know this is where the knocking is from, but my question is, does this just need a new drive shaft??? or is it more work???

its into a mate for its pre MOT check over next weekend so he can swap it if needed, I assume it would be a failure.

Coilovers-

Had constant issues with rubbing on the passenger front wheel, "boucing" tha car i think the gas struts and springs have had there day, lots of residual bounce and it easlisy drops down 50mm under load!!!!! they were a cheap JOM set with 40mm drop and are nearly 5 years old and done over 12k miles and were allways a very soft ride.

so decided to replace with some mid priced coilovers, I've read through the current threads, so my question is, does anyone currently run the JOM coilovers (link below) if so what are they like (ease of set up etc) and how hard is the ride?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COILOVER-SUSP ... 337bba9a6e

thanks for any help

Heath :)

[Nate]

driveshaft joints need to have a bit of movement in and out to allow for suspension travel and steering movement. 10mm doesn't sound excessive. so long as the shaft doesn't have tons of play and the rubbers are in good order and not leaking grease it should pass

you don't sound like you've been very pleased with your current JOM suspension. if it was me, i'd think twice about buying another set of it ;)

[eefy]

The current fit is springs and shocks, want to go down the coilover route for hopefully a harder ride :)

[haddock_n_chips]

aah the age old coilover debate!

i am currently running the cheapish coilovers from e-bay cant remember the name (the red ones!)

i was looking for the JOM ones but no-one had any in stock at the time

i had issues getting the camber and ride height correct on the passenger side without the coilover adjusting cog thingy to rub on the inner edge of the tyre.

a quick hook up to the 4 wheel alignment at work and we were up and running, but i appreciate not everyone has this opportunity (a fully loaded commercial classic car workshop at my work!)

the coilovers are ok, still a few rubbing issues when cornering over bumps, but they are good value for money, a lot harder than the original set up but not overly unconfirtable.

I had the opportunity to buy a full G-Max set up for a good price but it still worked out at over twice the price of the e-bay jobbies. and with them coming with a two year guarantee i figured they couldnt be too bad

at the end of the day you get what you pay for. Ebay coilovers serve a purpose, they are cheap and generally not too bad, the JOM ones i have heard better reviews of than the others

spend mega bucks and you get fantastic quality but not all of us have the finances to spend an unlimited amount of dosh on our cars, and many rocco's are now second cars.

anyway i'd go for the JOM's of you can find them in stock somewhere. Or alternatively save up 3/4 times as much and get FK or Gmax etc....!

[eefy]

hmm thanks for the feedback H&C's, harder ride is what i want, as the current set up is rubbing on standard steel wheels with only a 40mm drop due to eh wallow lol

will probably only drop if 40-50mm so hopefully no rubbing issues, its the rear i want to get down really :)

anyone else fitted either the Hot Tuning coilers refered to above or the JOM's??

cheers

[wassell]

what wheels are you running? it sounds like the ET is a bit high (for the set up) if the wheel is rubbing on the strut. you could either try running a different wheel with a lower ET, or a spacer to pull the wheel further away from the strut. 5mm would probably do it if its only catching on big compressions. just remember to run at least 5mm longer bolts :)


Re coilovers; i've used FK, weitec (hicon TX+) and JOM. FK are by far the most comfortable but do roll more than others due to this, weitec are bar far the best in terms of performance but were expensive and jom were very hard, not overly comfy/uncomfy but fun and cheap.

If i was going to buy again on my current rocco i'd want to buy the weitecs as you can put the hammer down on some really rough ground where you'd be bouncing on the joms. however in this current climate i'd just buy the joms again.

[eefy]

Thanks for the input Wassell, much appriciated, think the JOM'S are the way to go then as this is just a weekend plaything and not my daily, not fussed is they need replacing on 10k miles as that will get me 4 years of driving!!!! lol

I was runnint ET25's but had to run nearly a full camber!!!! currently running standard steelies with ET38 (Possibly 35) not as much camber (added more on saturday) but still rub when the suspension "warms up" or on heavy load. just think ther now not stiff enough for the amount of drop, does this sound about right????

some pics of the suspention to give you an idea of condition-

[mark1gls]

Drive shaft play-

noticed some knocking, not all the time just now and then, today while i was adjusting the camber (more on that further down) i did a check off all the bushes etc, all tight but the passenger side drive shaft had some lateral play in it ie moved in and out of the UJ's anouy 5-10mm, so I know this is where the knocking is from, but my question is, does this just need a new drive shaft??? or is it more work???

its into a mate for its pre MOT check over next weekend so he can swap it if needed, I assume it would be a failure.

Have you checked the nut on the end of the drive shaft (brake disc side) has been done up to the right torque?

[eefy]

funny that, the guy i work for mentioned the same thing, will get the car jacked up tomorrow night and have a look :)

[mark1gls]

You don't want to jack the car up or it will fall off when you try to do the nut up, best thing pull the hand brake on, leave in 1st gear, take the hub cap off the nut should be right infront of you, get a torque wrench and see what happens.

[eefy]

thanks for that, not got a torque wrench bit will "nip" it up tonight, it'll only be going 5 mile to me mate at weekend, where he can set it correctly (he;s a mechanic so has the right tools for the job) :)

[mark1gls]

Just thinking while driving home tonight but did you not have problems with your CV joint on that side? Has someone changed to CV boot/taken the CV joint off the drive shaft reasently?
The reason is that there is a lot of different washers and clips which come with a new CV boot/joint and you have to choose the right ones to go on, there are some dished shape washers which have to go on the right way round in the right order. Perphaps someone missed one, or put it together in the wrong order? Just a thought.......

[eefy]

yeah i did get the wheel bearing swapped, had a look at the nut but my socket set doesnt go up high enough arrrrrrrrrrgggggggggghhhhhhhh

still its in with a mechanic mate at weekend so I'll have him take a look when he hopefully fits the coilover ;)

thanks for all the help