oil light flashing

[calgonUK]

right i know how this sounds already, but... heres the kicker, when the oil light comes on and starts flashing the main beam light lights up a little bit,, but if i dip the clutch and give it a lil rev it stops, or if i turn high beam on it goes away and so does the rev counter the engine is fine no grinding or louder than normal with the tappets. but if im driving anywhere lower than 2k rpm it doesent flash.

[calgonUK]

oh and its a 1991 gt2 rocco.

[Nate]

ok, so i'm assuming you've checked the oil level, and the oil has been changed within the last 10k miles and it's got the correct oil in it

check the charging voltage at tickover

check the earth to the dash

[calgonUK]

the car has done all of 110 miles in my ownership, and in that time ive given it a full oil and filter change, new cambelt, new rear wheel bearings, MOT,TAX, new battery, new spark plugs and a weber 32/34 manual choke carb, it needed to be tow started after it being sat on the drive during the mad rain we've had after changing the carbs over from my broke peirburg 2e carb that made the car over fuel like a whore.

ive checked all earths and there all cleaned and sorted, it desperatly needs to be wired up to a push button start or a new ignition switch is needed, apart from that the car is sound almost.

when i dont start it after a few days it struggles to start and or, litterally back fires louder than a 12 guage shotgun with incendary rounds.

[Nate]

ok, i suspect you[ve got more than 1 problem here, so let's start again from the beginning. if i've understood this right, when you 1st got the car, it was running ok (no oil light problem) apart from over-fuelling thanks to our friend, the pierburg carb.

you have changed the oil and filter and now have an oil light problem

you changed the carb and it's not a bitch to start from cold and backfires, presumably up the inlet and not out the exhaust?

what spec oil did you put in it? what brand of oil filter did you fit?

was the carb new, used or recon? are you 100% conident it is jetted correctly? did you check the timing at the same time as you set up the carb?

[calgonUK]

Erm dont know what oil was used or oil filter. Its what autodata said to use and parts from the motorfactors got off the reg number. The oil light started flashing a few days ago after fitting the weber.

It was sat for a week as i couldent get the damn thing started. After replacing the battery and putting more fuel in and changing a few fuel lines. Got a tow start which got it started.
The back firing most the time it comes out the carb but its popped a big one out the exhaust twice. The last 1 a crap load of smoke came out.

And havent touched it since.

The weber is 2nd hand off a seller off here who asured me it came of a 1.8mk2 rocco gt2 and he used it on his engine before he did a engine swap. It hasent been tuned to my engine yet. And havent looked at the timing.

Its an arse to start anyway after thignition switch broke so a screw driver is my key at the moment

[Nate]

might be worth checking the wire on the oil pressure senders are secure. could be one is vibrating slightly loose, but of a long shot though.

some listings say you should put 5w40 synthetic oil in these engines. they do seem to run better on 10w40 or 15w40 semi synth or mineral, which is what vw actually specify. there is a common misconception that synthetic oil is better as it is more expensive. apply the same logic, and you'd be better putting diesel in, coz it's more expensive

as for your running problem, i'd start off with checking the timing. get the engine to tdc and pop the timing belt cover off. make sure that the belt is still tensioned right and top and bottom pulley marks are lined up. then check that the dizzy arm is pointing roughly at the line cut into the rim of the dizzy body. this won't be set perfectly, but should be close enough for it to run. you can then get the carb set up. personally i'd favour setting it up to run nicely as opposed to setting it with a gas analyser (can open, worms everywhere) as this will tend to give you a much more driveable car, although opinion is divided. once you've got it running well, keep advancing the timing until it starts to pink under load, then retard it ever so slightly. (yet another can of worms opened) i'd also use a timing light just to check the advance/retard is working

some people will tell you that this method is entirely wrong. but if you get it right it will give you a good responsive drive, and low emissions for the test.

[ianaudia4]

I would change the oil filter again, buy one from the dealers, they only cost about 3 quid, you probably paid more from a motor factors! Also the dealers sell Synta Silver oil, semi synthetic and recommended for your car for a very reasonable 20 quid for 5 litres.

[calgonUK]

cheers for the advice and info, this is all a brand new learning curve for me, ive always had much newer vw's, this is my first vw thats run on a carb (had 5 vw's before this) so to be really honest i havent the foggeyest of what your on about lol. im mechanically minded slightly but this is right beyond my boundaries of knowlage. i jusy want to get the thing running so i can get about. im unemployed atm (not even on the doll) so money is tight at the moment.

but i suppose this what you get when you buy a car for £60. altho its in good nick with a slight problematic engine, sod all rust tho.

[Nate]

where abouts are you? you may well find there's someone local who'll come and have a look for you

[calgonUK]

Im between telford and brignorth. Place called apley hall. Close to the hundred house in norton.any help would be massivly appriciated.

[Nate]

2 hours from me, sorry dude!

[calgonUK]

fixed it, i left it for a few days so it could think about what it did, now the car is running great when i get the ignition switch in the right place. just need to wire up a push button start.