Flaring brake/fuel pipes

[Joe87]

Hello.

I'm in the process of replacing some rigid brake and fuel lines in order to get through my MOT. I was under the impression that brake lines require double flared union joints, whilst fuel lines only require a single flare. However, I've also read that brake lines can require something called a bubble flare. Can anyone confirm which type of flare is need for which lines?

It would also be helpful if anyone knows the fuel pipe diameter for the rigid fuel lines that run the length of the car under the chassis (for a GTX - I'm told carb and inj are different), as well as the size/thread of union joint required - I'm told there's a mixture of metric and imperial measurements...

I realise that I can measure these myself, and I will do, but it's good just to have 'official' measurements to compare to.

Cheers guys.

[PeteGLi]

For the brake pipes you need the DIN/ISO bubble flare with a 10m x 1 short metric nut with a non threaded lead portion

Useful reference site - http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf

[bensspares]

Hi Joe,

When I did mine,

I bought the flaring kit from Cromwell tools, the couplings from a local factor (I still have loads and loads of the male and female)..The pipe can be bought from Pertek in 10 meter lengths, the size is 10mm...just ask for copper pipe used for brake lines, they should do the rest..
If need be, I can supply you with the male and female couplings....

Ben

[PeteGLi]

Brake pipe is 3/16 or 4.75mm.

[bensspares]

Pete may have a point..

[Nate]

Hi Joe,

When I did mine,

I bought the flaring kit from Cromwell tools, the couplings from a local factor (I still have loads and loads of the male and female)..The pipe can be bought from Pertek in 10 meter lengths, the size is 10mm...just ask for copper pipe used for brake lines, they should do the rest..
If need be, I can supply you with the male and female couplings....

Ben

ben, how were they on price for it? everything i've tried them for down here they've been silly money. it's usually around a quid a metre from the factors

[bensspares]

Nate,

A quid a metre sounds about right, It cost me arround the £10 mark for 10 metres, however, I did buy a few bits and haggled a discount.

The flaring kit was arround £20 but this was on a half price offer..

[Bonusrocco]

The flaring kit was arround £20 but this was on a half price offer..

My one was £38 they said that was half price too...

Practice first making the flared ends, take your time and learn how to get them nice and regular, and inline with the pipe. Theres vids on you tube that help a lot.

And just to add - I used to take my lines off, and give them to my local motor factors and they'd make them for me like for like.

[Joe87]

Thanks for the info guys. I've actually found a specialist garage down the road from me who are able to make up all pipes if I provide the bits (they do vintage cars so the materials they have in stock are the wrong sizes). They said they'll do it at £35/hour which seems pretty reasonable seeing as it would cost me £40 to buy a reasonable flaring kit, not to mention a pipe bender. Can't imagine it can take particularly long to bend and flare a few pipes...?!

I haven't actually removed the fuel lines yet. Can anyone confirm whether it's actually possible to get the old rigid fuel lines out and the new ones in with the car just on axle stands, rather than a lift?

[Tim_R]

I haven't actually removed the fuel lines yet. Can anyone confirm whether it's actually possible to get the old rigid fuel lines out and the new ones in with the car just on axle stands, rather than a lift?

Yes it is, but it is fiddly where it goes through the wishbone mounting point/chassis leg because of the bends in the there.

Good luck

[Bonusrocco]

Yeah you could do it with axle stands. However I'd consider having the work done if youre not that confident with DIY, for safetys sake (its is your brakes ). A garage shouldnt charge too much for brake/fuel lines, not that hard a job. Plus they will bleed the system etc.

[Joe87]

Nah don't worry, I'm confident that I can put the new ones in ok - I am having them made by a garage and that's the trickiest bit. And bleeding isn't a problem, I've done that before, Thanks for the concern though :)

Thanks for confirming that it is possible with axle stands. I'm on a bit of a tight budget so I'd rather struggle than pay someone else to do it in comfort.

[Bonusrocco]

A big help is dropping the rear beam. Sounds a big deal but its only six bolts. You may need to jiggle it around to get it back on but it will help you get at the brake line couplings. Use a car jack to lower the beam up and down.

errr where are you in winchester? I have a flaring kit you can borrow if it helps. I'm driving up to london from southampton tommorow.

[Joe87]

A big help is dropping the rear beam. Sounds a big deal but its only six bolts. You may need to jiggle it around to get it back on but it will help you get at the brake line couplings. Use a car jack to lower the beam up and down.

errr where are you in winchester? I have a flaring kit you can borrow if it helps. I'm driving up to london from southampton tommorow.

Only just saw this post mate, thanks a lot for the offer but I ended up buying the tools and they're all made up now. Much appreciated though.