Restoring flat paint and full clean.

[D-reame]

Just a few pointers for a great result.

1. Clean the car with Meguiars gold class car wash.
2. Meguiars Clay bar system (or any other clay bar )one panel at a time to ensure you do not become impatient.
3. Stage 1 Meguiars deep crystal.
4. Stage 2 Meguiars Polish. This must be spread thinly and evenly or you will be polishing forever. It bonds to the first stage and goes hard with a deep glass finish.
5. Stage 3 Meguiars Carnauba Wax.
6. Glass cleaned using autoglym glass cleaner.
7. Tyres dressed with Meguiars tyre gel as it is not too shiny. Just makes them look very new and nourished.
8. Black bumpers also done with Meguiars tyre gel. Comes up great as it soaks in and lasts ages.
9. All other black trim done with Autoglym rubber and vinyl care.

The result is glass like paint work with a deep shine. It took me four days to complete but it is well worth the effort. I did one panel at a time so as not to get board. This also gives you an opportunity to see the difference.

And here she is.

[DannyH]

Stunning!

i'd be scared to drive it?

[D-reame]

I am. Lol.

[Risocco]

Good stuff matey, personally I find that the Megs 3 Step stuff doesn't last long, and the polish does next to nothing, but to each their own and theres no argument about the finished result.

Cracking job dude!

Alex

[D-reame]

Thinking long term what do you recommend? I used these products because I had them and they do work I am always open to advise. Every day is a school day.

[Risocco]

Zaino Show Car Polish mate. Its not cheap, but failing that I've always had a soft spot for Auto Glym Super Resin Polish. Obviously follow that with a good wax. Collinite and Dodo Juice paste waxes will last months bud.

Infact, Monza Car Care were doing an offer on eBay not too long back for Carlack polish and Collinite 915 complete with applicators. Apparently that combination is amazing!

Alex

[andy69]

Thinking long term what do you recommend? I used these products because I had them and they do work I am always open to advise. Every day is a school day.

your car looks awesome matey

I swear by Meguiars clay bar, using their Quik detailer to wet the paintwork. I find it preps the paintwork better than anything else I've tried. I also use this on my Bay, and as it's so big, don't want to have to wax / polish it too often so have experimented quite a bit. I've found that the Meguiars Gold Class Clear Coat Liquid Car Wax is an unbeatable follow up to the clay bar for depth, gloss and endurance. It comes with a sponge applicator which I thought might be quite gimmicky, but it helps put an even coat on and is really quick too. I also love their Gold Class Trim Detailer for the bumpers and dark bits on the Rocco

Cheers

[D-reame]

Like you say. I go by what I know to be good. I too find the sponge applicator very good for an even coat which is important. I may try another product when my current batch runs out. I have never tried the DoDo range so I may try them.

[DT1]

If your paint is heavily oxidised would you need to use something like T-Cut rather than the clay bar?

Some of the articles I've read are contradictory on this.

[the edmundator]

If your paint is heavily oxidised would you need to use something like T-Cut rather than the clay bar?

Some of the articles I've read are contradictory on this.

I used the Meguiar's 3 stage system on my Flash Red GTII, which was very oxidised (looks better in the pic than it was). Didn't need any T-cut to restore a brilliant colour finish:

Before:


After:

[DT1]

Thanks, guess that answers that question.

Have to give it a shot.

[Funky Diver]

I used the Meguiar's 3 stage system on my Flash Red GTII, which was very oxidised (looks better in the pic than it was). Didn't need any T-cut to restore a brilliant colour finish:

Worked wonders on the alloys

[vwdeviant]

If your paint is heavily oxidised would you need to use something like T-Cut rather than the clay bar?

Some of the articles I've read are contradictory on this.

The clay bar won't get rid of oxidisation per say, it's main job it to removed "Bonded contaminants" (tar/tree sap etc) which make the paint feel "rough even when it's clean... to see if the car needs claying rub your fingertips over freshly washed/dried paint, if it feels "gritty" then it would benefit from a claying... you can magnify the gritting effect by using clingfilm between your fingers and the paint.

Clay comes in different grades from Aggresive to quite mild... the Megs is pretty mild and easy to use, however the more aggresive ones can mar the paint if not used correctly.

Once the paint's been clayed then the car/panels will need washing againg to remove the residue, then it's onto your the Polish/waxing stages.

T-cut's only good for rubbish paint and actually produces more issues in the form of Spiderwebbing, which will need a good machine polish to remove...

I use Mags stage 1 but follow up with either SRP or Megs2 and then a couple layers of good quality wax (Colinite 915) to retain the shine.

Those of you with red cars really need to look closely at the level of UV protection your wax/polish gives as it's this that helps stop the flat appearance coming back. Also as VW reds seems to be quite soft you need to be careful if machine polishing too!

[Risocco]

If your paint is heavily oxidised would you need to use something like T-Cut rather than the clay bar?

Some of the articles I've read are contradictory on this.

The clay bar won't get rid of oxidisation per say, it's main job it to removed "Bonded contaminants" (tar/tree sap etc) which make the paint feel "rough even when it's clean... to see if the car needs claying rub your fingertips over freshly washed/dried paint, if it feels "gritty" then it would benefit from a claying... you can magnify the gritting effect by using clingfilm between your fingers and the paint.

Clay comes in different grades from Aggresive to quite mild... the Megs is pretty mild and easy to use, however the more aggresive ones can mar the paint if not used correctly.

Once the paint's been clayed then the car/panels will need washing againg to remove the residue, then it's onto your the Polish/waxing stages.

T-cut's only good for rubbish paint and actually produces more issues in the form of Spiderwebbing, which will need a good machine polish to remove...

I use Mags stage 1 but follow up with either SRP or Megs2 and then a couple layers of good quality wax (Colinite 915) to retain the shine.

Those of you with red cars really need to look closely at the level of UV protection your wax/polish gives as it's this that helps stop the flat appearance coming back. Also as VW reds seems to be quite soft you need to be careful if machine polishing too!

Oh god yes! I tried to machine polish Tornado Red with a Menzerna medium cut compound, it didn't end too good. Definatly SRP with a durable wax ontop of this for VW reds

Will only say, prob best not to use a clay bar to remove tar as it just dirties up the bar quicker than necessary, just use a dedicated tar remover for it

Alex

[jamie190382]

What would be the best thing to get rid of scratches and blemished on the silver/grey paint. Its driving me nuts. Lol.