Of a 16v in the bay please....
I thank you...
pic request pls
Re: pic request pls
I dont know whether I have a pic at the mo, but I certainly have a 16v in a mk1 - Is there something in particular you wanted a look at - I can take a pic when I get a chance ?
Dan
Dan
Re: pic request pls
Just wanted a genral veiw of it, how it sits and looks...
Pics would be great dan when u get the chance
Pics would be great dan when u get the chance
Re: pic request pls
No worries, will sort you some as soon as I get a chance, I dont think there are any photobucketed at the moment.
Re: pic request pls
Right then, found you some. The most complete picture I have got for an overall look is the first one. Its a 6a Bottom end, with KR head, Mk2 16v Golf gearbox and all the K-jet fuelling. At the minute it is in it's 'First fix' stage to give it a good shakedown before I tidy up the wiring, routing etc, but I think it came out looking fairly factory (you will have to excuse me being a bit happy about it - I have literally just finished it and been driving it round for the first time in 5 months!):
It slotted in easy enough as a whole, here are pics before plumbing ancilliaries in for comparison:
Few details that might be relevant if you are looking at how it fits etc:
I used the 16v Rad with adapted mk1 fixings and a bit of fiddling/drilling/cutting etc, it fits nice and snug:
Mounted the ECU and TCI-H Switch unit up in the Pass side - there is just enough room between the bonnet bracket & wiper mechanism, although had to reverse where the TCI-H unit was & bend the ECU connector at 90 degrees to normal plug fitment. I may move this later on to the drivers side where there is more room:
The golf I bought was 90 spec and had the bigger 16v airbox, which I was told wouldn't fit in the drivers side chassis leg space. I got it to with a lot of choppping, reinforcing, fixing to inner wing etc, and there is just enough space next to the fan-belt to keep me happy that it is a safe distance away. Bottom half shown here in prototype stage:
Biggest problem with this to be honest is that the back of the light fittings on the drivers side butt right up virtually to the front of the airbox, so to change the bulbs you have to undo the lghts rather than being able to do them from the back. For the same reason, changing the air filter would be an absolute arse-ache, so I have put a K&N in so at least I dont have to get it out to clean quite so often! I am not 100% happy with this arrangement but I guess there had to be some compromise, and as you can see in the finished pics at the top, the airbox from the top still looks factory, so it will do until I think of something more clever!
Due to the injection system/airbox being on the 'wrong side' you have to bring the fuel lines over to the drivers side. Mine were in good nick, so I decided to bend them round and repeated measuring, eyeing up, bending, putting together, taking apart etc etc etc manged to get it all to fit. Made a bracket for the fuel filter to hold it below the slam panel:
Again not 100% happy with this positioning, as not the best place if you have a front end smash, but then neither was the original place just inside the inner wing, so again for the moment this will do. Eventually I plan to have some lines made up so I can mount the filter behind the airbox where it is a little more protected.
Hope this helps, let me know if you want any other piccies
Dan
It slotted in easy enough as a whole, here are pics before plumbing ancilliaries in for comparison:
Few details that might be relevant if you are looking at how it fits etc:
I used the 16v Rad with adapted mk1 fixings and a bit of fiddling/drilling/cutting etc, it fits nice and snug:
Mounted the ECU and TCI-H Switch unit up in the Pass side - there is just enough room between the bonnet bracket & wiper mechanism, although had to reverse where the TCI-H unit was & bend the ECU connector at 90 degrees to normal plug fitment. I may move this later on to the drivers side where there is more room:
The golf I bought was 90 spec and had the bigger 16v airbox, which I was told wouldn't fit in the drivers side chassis leg space. I got it to with a lot of choppping, reinforcing, fixing to inner wing etc, and there is just enough space next to the fan-belt to keep me happy that it is a safe distance away. Bottom half shown here in prototype stage:
Biggest problem with this to be honest is that the back of the light fittings on the drivers side butt right up virtually to the front of the airbox, so to change the bulbs you have to undo the lghts rather than being able to do them from the back. For the same reason, changing the air filter would be an absolute arse-ache, so I have put a K&N in so at least I dont have to get it out to clean quite so often! I am not 100% happy with this arrangement but I guess there had to be some compromise, and as you can see in the finished pics at the top, the airbox from the top still looks factory, so it will do until I think of something more clever!
Due to the injection system/airbox being on the 'wrong side' you have to bring the fuel lines over to the drivers side. Mine were in good nick, so I decided to bend them round and repeated measuring, eyeing up, bending, putting together, taking apart etc etc etc manged to get it all to fit. Made a bracket for the fuel filter to hold it below the slam panel:
Again not 100% happy with this positioning, as not the best place if you have a front end smash, but then neither was the original place just inside the inner wing, so again for the moment this will do. Eventually I plan to have some lines made up so I can mount the filter behind the airbox where it is a little more protected.
Hope this helps, let me know if you want any other piccies
Dan
Re: pic request pls
Ah there spot on fella...
So the abf is to tall. Did you find that out first hand ? do you know if the 9a is the same height as the ABF? Is the kr a shorter block..
How does the manifold sit, did / have you used a 4-2-1 manifold or another route ?
Sorry for the questions but need to know whats what first, before i make my mind up about which to fit if all go's to plan..
And thaks again for them pics looks very tidy..
So the abf is to tall. Did you find that out first hand ? do you know if the 9a is the same height as the ABF? Is the kr a shorter block..
How does the manifold sit, did / have you used a 4-2-1 manifold or another route ?
Sorry for the questions but need to know whats what first, before i make my mind up about which to fit if all go's to plan..
And thaks again for them pics looks very tidy..
Re: pic request pls
The Abf is 16 (or 18, memory failing me!) mm taller than the KR, 6a & 9a in the block. From what I understand it doesnt stop you using it, but causes fun and games with exhaust manifold and with running the fuelling setup etc due to clearance issues with the bonnet. That said, I was going to try ABF till I came across my 6a/KR Hybrid for a good price.
The KR, 6a & 9a are all the same height - nominally the same as the original 8v engine (not necesarilly factually true, but they do fit on the existing mounts, and you can still close the bonnet!) The only issue with the 6a is that being an Audi engine, if you get it straight from the audi, you have to change quite a few ancilliaries with it being longitudinal in the audi rather than transverse. This is no big problem, but does mean you need a load of KR/9a bits to convert, so it is probably easier to not use that (unless like me you find one that has already been done)
I have used an Ashley 4 branch 16v mk1 conversion manifold, but there are a few other alternatives available. It runs close to the steering rack gaiter, so I made an aluminium heat shield to go around it (and heat-wrapped the mani) and I also tweaked (walloped with a hammer) a flat into the pipe to clear the front ARB.
Hope that helps - feel free to fire as many questions as you want, if you can learn from any of my mistakes I will only be too glad to help.
I considered a load of different engine options, and nearly went 1.8T route, but I felt that a valver has more similar characteristics to the original 1.6 injection that was in my gli, albeit more of it! I am really glad I went that route - the engine really suits the car, and dont believe this talk of valvers having no low down grunt - I dont know whether it is just because of teh 2.0 bottom end, but it is plenty grunty down low, then just goes ballistic when it comes on song higher up.
Any other questions, or you want any other pictures, just give me a shout, more than happy to help
Dan
The KR, 6a & 9a are all the same height - nominally the same as the original 8v engine (not necesarilly factually true, but they do fit on the existing mounts, and you can still close the bonnet!) The only issue with the 6a is that being an Audi engine, if you get it straight from the audi, you have to change quite a few ancilliaries with it being longitudinal in the audi rather than transverse. This is no big problem, but does mean you need a load of KR/9a bits to convert, so it is probably easier to not use that (unless like me you find one that has already been done)
I have used an Ashley 4 branch 16v mk1 conversion manifold, but there are a few other alternatives available. It runs close to the steering rack gaiter, so I made an aluminium heat shield to go around it (and heat-wrapped the mani) and I also tweaked (walloped with a hammer) a flat into the pipe to clear the front ARB.
Hope that helps - feel free to fire as many questions as you want, if you can learn from any of my mistakes I will only be too glad to help.
I considered a load of different engine options, and nearly went 1.8T route, but I felt that a valver has more similar characteristics to the original 1.6 injection that was in my gli, albeit more of it! I am really glad I went that route - the engine really suits the car, and dont believe this talk of valvers having no low down grunt - I dont know whether it is just because of teh 2.0 bottom end, but it is plenty grunty down low, then just goes ballistic when it comes on song higher up.
Any other questions, or you want any other pictures, just give me a shout, more than happy to help
Dan
Re: pic request pls
Cheers dan been a great help.
Ive already done the conversion in the mk2 using the ABF on k-jet fitted perfect, but i just wasnt 100% sure if the 9a or abf would give me issuse's on the bonnet closing front.
Now that ive seen a 16v sitting in the bay i got to say is very well suited.
Best i get looking for some parts and pay a visit to someone..........
Ive already done the conversion in the mk2 using the ABF on k-jet fitted perfect, but i just wasnt 100% sure if the 9a or abf would give me issuse's on the bonnet closing front.
Now that ive seen a 16v sitting in the bay i got to say is very well suited.
Best i get looking for some parts and pay a visit to someone..........
Re: pic request pls
Ah if you have already done a mk2 then you will be well away - I am led to believe it is virtually the same job.
The only thing to potentially watch out for are a few weird anomalies with the Mk1 (or mine at least anyway) In my research I looked at a lot of Mk1 golfs that had it done, but there seem to be a few key differences with the mk1 rocco (Mine was a '79, last of the 4 speed Glis)
Although mine was already K-jet, I still ended up ripping out the entire electrical system and using the one from the donor Mk2 golf I bought, as the early bullet type fuse boxes like in the Mk1 scirocco and early golfs are not really up to the job . This meant making new fuse box brackets, lengthening a lot of wires, shortening a lot of wires etc etc. I am sure there are other ways around it, but this seemed sensible to me at the time, it just took bloody ages to get it all wired back up again, and there have been a few interesting issues I have had to overcome converting switched earths etc which wouldnt work right with the scirocco switches etc. I would imagine if the mk2 you did already had the blade type fuse box you didnt have any of that ball-ache to deal with.
My (4 speed gearbox) had a different mount on it to on the later 5 speed box that came with the engine, so I had to get the gearbox end mount off a 5 speed Mk 1 golf Gti to fit to the gearbox.
If your mk2 had the later 100mm driveshafts, you didnt have to decide what to do about those either, the mk 1 will have 90mm ones, so you will need to overcome that with either 100mm shafts, or swapping and changing drive flanges on the box. If you end up deciding to change the flanges, be aware that some of the early boxes have a different type of drive flange to the later ones, so you cant swap them. As far as I know, you will only tell when you get them apart (That is certainly how I found out!)
I think that is about it I can think of at the moment that might be more complicated on the mk1 than the mk2. I took loads of pictures, so if there is anything else you want, just give me a shout. If you are ever around Cardiff you are welcome to give me a shout and have a look over it. The MOT runs out on the 12th, so I have to put it through its first one since being rebuilt, so fingers crossed!
The only thing to potentially watch out for are a few weird anomalies with the Mk1 (or mine at least anyway) In my research I looked at a lot of Mk1 golfs that had it done, but there seem to be a few key differences with the mk1 rocco (Mine was a '79, last of the 4 speed Glis)
Although mine was already K-jet, I still ended up ripping out the entire electrical system and using the one from the donor Mk2 golf I bought, as the early bullet type fuse boxes like in the Mk1 scirocco and early golfs are not really up to the job . This meant making new fuse box brackets, lengthening a lot of wires, shortening a lot of wires etc etc. I am sure there are other ways around it, but this seemed sensible to me at the time, it just took bloody ages to get it all wired back up again, and there have been a few interesting issues I have had to overcome converting switched earths etc which wouldnt work right with the scirocco switches etc. I would imagine if the mk2 you did already had the blade type fuse box you didnt have any of that ball-ache to deal with.
My (4 speed gearbox) had a different mount on it to on the later 5 speed box that came with the engine, so I had to get the gearbox end mount off a 5 speed Mk 1 golf Gti to fit to the gearbox.
If your mk2 had the later 100mm driveshafts, you didnt have to decide what to do about those either, the mk 1 will have 90mm ones, so you will need to overcome that with either 100mm shafts, or swapping and changing drive flanges on the box. If you end up deciding to change the flanges, be aware that some of the early boxes have a different type of drive flange to the later ones, so you cant swap them. As far as I know, you will only tell when you get them apart (That is certainly how I found out!)
I think that is about it I can think of at the moment that might be more complicated on the mk1 than the mk2. I took loads of pictures, so if there is anything else you want, just give me a shout. If you are ever around Cardiff you are welcome to give me a shout and have a look over it. The MOT runs out on the 12th, so I have to put it through its first one since being rebuilt, so fingers crossed!
Re: pic request pls
Dan that great i had been thinking about wiring issuses with the mk1 set up. After finding a another spare gtx dash loom and fuse box i started ponding if i could swop it over. So if it makes sence and ease's the conversion then its a go..
Im sure it will sail though mate she looks to tidy not to...
Im sure it will sail though mate she looks to tidy not to...
Re: pic request pls
Cheers fella, fingers crossed it will, but there are a few bits I reckon are borderline - we will see!
If you do it and I can be of any assistance, just give me a shout.
If you do it and I can be of any assistance, just give me a shout.