Mk2 Pierburg Carb Repair Kits

[trevor]

Hi,
As the new keeper of a 1984 GL, I wondered which repair kit would be the best to use on my car. Does anyone have any experience of these kits please? I do not wish to convert the carburation as I want to retain originality.
Regards,
Trevor

[WreckTangle]

Good approach. The Pierburg is excellent when it is working well and by restoring the original you will hopefully avoid all the issues often experienced by people who choose to go the Weber conversion route.

My own situation was slightly different in that a previous owner had already done a Weber conversion which I wanted to reverse. To this end I bought several 2e2 carbs to use for parts. One of these came with a nearly complete rebuild kit so I used that.

If I were buying a kit now I would go for either VW Heritage Parts or Brickwerks. These are likely to be the best quality and least problematic.

https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ ... ettor.html

https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/carb-r ... rburg-2e3/

You will also need a new carb flange, sold separately.

To my mind, essential resources for the rebuild are the original service manual which you can find here

http://vwa1.dadoghouse.com/wp-content/u ... uction.pdf

And the Haynes manual which also provides some useful general information if you’ve never rebuilt a carburettor before. I think out of print now, but readily available secondhand. This one looks pricey. I don’t think I paid anything near that much.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403460850009

Two YouTube channels that you will also find helpful are

https://youtu.be/amnqCUSTnUw

and

https://youtu.be/KCNHGhX9cRM

Do explore the channels for additional excellent videos. Don’t worry that the first one is about a 2e3. They are very similar as are the techniques involved in stripping them down, rebuilding and testing components.

Before you start, I would be inclined to test your 3/4 point unit (throttle plate actuator) to check that it holds vacuum. If it does not, you will need to source a new one. Most secondhand ones will also be broken. I am not sure if anywhere can repair them. Somewhere that restores vacuum advance units for classic distributors might be able to. This will be the hardest replacement part to source if you need to. A new one from Bosch will set you back more than a new Weber would.

You will find as you dismantle your carb that some of the screws are difficult to remove. Be careful not to break any or damage their heads. I found the most reliable way to get the screws our was to use an impact driver and quality driver bit.

When you remove the part load enrichment valve be careful not to twist it at all as this will break the fragile plastic inserts. When I broke mine new replacements were still available. They are scarce and fairly expensive so best to try not to break it.

It is not a bad idea to buy a 2e2 similar to yours to use for a practice run dismantling one and for spare parts.

Good luck with the project. Look forward to updates on how it’s going.

[RussGLAuto]

Hi Trevor,

Think your GL might have the 2b5 Pierburg?

May I suggest you contact John at Bromyard VW. He's an expert on these, as Wrecktangle eludes to, not easy to refurbish. Agree with him fully though, once done they are so much better than the Webber conversion so worth doing properly.

https://www.bromyardvw.co.uk

He did my 2b5 in about a week. Works beautifully!

Good luck with it.

[trevor]

Hi,

Thank you both for the links they are most helpful. I will inform you of the results in due course.

Again many thanks.

Warm regards,

Trevor

[Flags]

Hi Trevor, I have a complete 2b5 that was removed from a running 83 GL auto with 90k on the clock and the gearbox with all ancillaries including starter and torque converter if you are interested in any spare parts?

[trevor]

Dear Flags,

Many thanks for your offer of spares. I will let you know in due course.

I have an issue with the fuel syphoning back into the tank when stood idle for some time. This I hope to fix with a one way valve fitted between the pump and the fuel reservoir. It is most likely the faulty fuel reservoir causing the problem. Sadly it is the small plastic variety (Hens teeth), not the canister type as fitted to most cars. Incidentally, the car runs well regardless of the issue.

It is my intention to attend the Scirocco Register meet at Cosford in July! Hope to see you, Wrecktangle and RussGLauto there. You have all been very kind.

Best regards,

Trevor

[GT_II]

I have an issue with the fuel syphoning back into the tank when stood idle for some time.

What period of time is this over? Mine takes some cranking to replenish fuel if I've left it for several months. I've always assumed it was evaporation from the carb

[RussGLAuto]

Dear Flags,

Many thanks for your offer of spares. I will let you know in due course.

I have an issue with the fuel syphoning back into the tank when stood idle for some time. This I hope to fix with a one way valve fitted between the pump and the fuel reservoir. It is most likely the faulty fuel reservoir causing the problem. Sadly it is the small plastic variety (Hens teeth), not the canister type as fitted to most cars. Incidentally, the car runs well regardless of the issue.

It is my intention to attend the Scirocco Register meet at Cosford in July! Hope to see you, Wrecktangle and RussGLauto there. You have all been very kind.

Best regards,

Trevor

Looking forward to it Trevor! Will be my first time at the meet if I can make it.

Ref the fuel going back into the tank, my GL Auto does this after sitting for anything more than a couple of weeks, other than that she starts first time every time so long as you prime the carb with a pre-start pump of the loud peddle once or twice as per the owners manual...

[WreckTangle]

Due to health problems I ended up leaving my carburettor Mk2 parked up in a garage for about a year. The carburettor and fuel line completely dried out and despite considerable cranking it was not possible to get it to prime (from the full fuel tank) using just the mechanical fuel pump. People used to modern, fuel-injected cars sometimes forget that a mechanical pump will only operate when the engine is turning over. I solved this problem as a one-off by disconnecting the the fuel line from the tank-side of the fuel pump and using an oil suction gun to suck fuel through to the pump. The car has been working fine since.

[trevor]

Thank you once again WreckTangle,

The cheapo NRV I placed in the fuel supply line has cured my issue. Priming has likely been you issue also GT_II. Incidentally my Haynes manual shows a NRV of the flapper variety located next to the fuel tank inside the fuel line. This, if fitted, is likely to deteriorate over time and become ineffective.

Best regards,

Trevor