Resurrect The Pierburg?

[RussGLAuto]

Morning Chaps,

With all this new found lockdown time on my hands, I found myself getting out the old Pierburg and over a glass (or two) of New Zealands finest, was idly wondering if I should attempt to overhaul it and re-fit it back into the 82 GL Auto.

Some inspiration has of course come from Skyrocket on you's tube. While the Webber is now working OK, he was right in that it needed re-jetting for it to run correctly on a rolling road costing £275. But I did regain 20 odd horses in the process and doubled the fuel economy.

The original unit has, for some reason, got a crusty coating of goodness knows what all flaking off it. I am not a mechanic, but wondering if it's worth getting a gasket set and having a bash. I have the Webber fitting manual still, thought I could just reverse the instructions. Using those immortal words; How Hard Can It Be?

56Y would then be 100% original which was always my goal with her.

Thoughts anyone please?

Cheers, stay safe all.

Russ

Further to my last, would I be correct in saying this is NOT a 2E2 but a 2B version?

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So, quick update for you,

I decided description is as always the better part and asked Bromyard VW to do the honours.

Took a month to complete as always, not just as simple as the carb refurb. She was missing the vapour trap and a whole host of other bits for the pierburg.

Anyway, picked her up early Sept and what a difference! Much smoother and sharper pick up in revs and speed. Certainly noticeable over the Webber.

A testament to Johns workmanship she made the return journey home without a hitch.

Of course, in the Indian summer weather and lockdown free I got her out every day for the next two weeks and became somewhat a daily driver. Until that is, one morning, on starting, she died and would not stay running on her own.

Checking the engine may fuel filter revealed to my horror, had a substantial amount of rust particles, large and small...

Odd, as I had been running the car no problem for the last 2 years on the webber with no issues. That said, I did fill up at a hicksville filling station on the way home. Even had original mechanical numbers on the pumps revolving. I'm just guessing I picked up some major contaminated fuel from here although I can't be sure.

So. One the safe side, new fuel tank, fuel lines, filter et all purchased ready for a tank swap and carb clean on the 7th Jan.

Moral of the story? I'll let you know in Jan!!

[GT_II]

Not an easy carb to get your head around, but superb when working well. I definitely wouldn't be swapping the units over unless you've checked, set up and tested everything on the Pierburg as far as you can off the engine. The official Pierburg service manual should help you set it up correctly step by step, including checking the basic settings that may have been fiddled with before.

http://vwa1.dadoghouse.com/wp-content/u ... uction.pdf

You'll need to read this in conjunction with the data sheet specific to your engine here:

https://www.ruddies-berlin.de/Vergaser2E2.htm

To do it properly, you'll also need a test meter, a decent vacuum pump and a set of feeler gauges.

I've not been through the whole process with mine, but checked everything I could with the carb in situ to resolve an issue with slow running/stalling when cold. In that case, I found that an adjustment screw in the lever that transfers movement between the wax stat and the throttle had previously been tampered with to compensate for a different fault, a blockage in coolant channel.

[Vic]

As per the above with all this time I've sorted out all my Pierburg carbs and parts into a box as I'm now 2/3 of the way to Weber carbs.

[RussGLAuto]

Not an easy carb to get your head around, but superb when working well. I definitely wouldn't be swapping the units over unless you've checked, set up and tested everything on the Pierburg as far as you can off the engine. The official Pierburg service manual should help you set it up correctly step by step, including checking the basic settings that may have been fiddled with before.

http://vwa1.dadoghouse.com/wp-content/u ... uction.pdf

You'll need to read this in conjunction with the data sheet specific to your engine here:

https://www.ruddies-berlin.de/Vergaser2E2.htm

To do it properly, you'll also need a test meter, a decent vacuum pump and a set of feeler gauges.

I've not been through the whole process with mine, but checked everything I could with the carb in situ to resolve an issue with slow running/stalling when cold. In that case, I found that an adjustment screw in the lever that transfers movement between the wax stat and the throttle had previously been tampered with to compensate for a different fault, a blockage in coolant channel.

Thats excellent info thank you! Will give it a go.