Mk2 1.6 the longer term project

[Ebies]

So I'm really leaning towards doing some like this;
This is a picture of a Rocco with a completely flat rear, I think it looks great and very practical however I want to go a step further.

A tail gate, It would make the rear so much more accessible and look pretty awesome as well.

And in other important news, I've just picked up these.
Before,
And after,

So much of an improvement

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[BlackGTX]

Hows that tailgate gonna work?

The lights take up most of the rear so are they on folding down too or just fhe number plate section

[Ebies]

Hows that tailgate gonna work?

The lights take up most of the rear so are they on folding down too or just fhe number plate section

The natural line of the boot goes down through the lines right at the end of the indicators, so I would cut through there, so the whole back end drops down.
Here's roughly where it would be, the blue part being the tail gate

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[Jack92]

Hows that tailgate gonna work?

The lights take up most of the rear so are they on folding down too or just fhe number plate section

The natural line of the boot goes down through the lines right at the end of the indicators, so I would cut through there, so the whole back end drops down.
Here's roughly where it would be, the blue part being the tail gate

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Seems like a challenge be good to see how it comes out though!


Jack
South East

www.motorsportdiscounts.co.uk
Seat Leon 1.8T 20V - Track Car
VW Scirocco Scala 1.8 Inj - Toy
Ford Transit 2.0 - Work Horse

[BlackGTX]

Interesting project, hope it works out.

Look at the bulb holders as they have metal all the way along to channel current and something to seperate the indicators would need to be made

[Ebies]

I hate rust. I hate having to repair rust even more so, however MOT is due at the end of the month and it was never going to pass with this hole in the drivers rear wheel well.



Did I say hole? I meant holes.
This repair just got significantly harder

(Here's another pic for the sake of it)


Now that top part of the rust was a right pain to cut out due to lack of access as the rear speak shelf is just about it, I could get a little better acres going through the speaker hole. But not much more.

After melting my Lidl special Dremel and resorting to old school method of using tin snips I had this hole.

Now I just needed to fill the hole

After trimming the metal down by eye and then by trial and cut, I had this
Cleaned up the hole to get a decent weld;




Here it is in place. Uglyist bit of welding I've probably ever done, for ages I couldn't get it to weld nicely, I adjusted wire speed, gas flow, power level etc, just was not playing bull. Was driving me insane as normally it's pretty okay (it's a cheap welder,it's very going to be jaw droppingly pretty weld)
Turns out the issue was the lead for the gun was at to much of an angle and the motor struggled to push the wire along it. Slightly readjusted my position and boom, back to normal consistent type welds, just a shame I was pretty much done.
At least I no for next time.

It's not quite a finished repair, I've put some filler over the welds yesterday to help it be less of an eye sore, I just need to sand this back and spray it so it looks semi decent



In conclusion, not overly happy with finish quality of the repair, but it is repaired strongly and importantly the rust as gone

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[Ebies]

So prior to the MOT, I took my car into work for a pre MOT check. To spot any obvious faults. All was looking good till I got to the rear arches and saw this;


Well shit. Have i mentioned I hate rust?
(Both sides were identical so I only took pictures of one repair)

There was no way I was going to let this defeat the car so I set to repairing it.

As with any repair, you start out with some flat metal.

Then comes the fun part, figuring out to turn said bits of metal in to a curved complicated 3d shape.

I really do enjoy this bit but lack the skill/experience to do beautiful job of it. So out comes the hot metal gun;


Now got the basic shape, just need to refine it. Which involves lots of loving taps with a hammer. After a while I got my curve and step



Then just trim of the rest to get a nice fit.



Cut away the Rot, clean up the metal and start welding the patch into place.


Found some old under sealant in my dad's garage and applied it liberally. Quite happy with the finish tbh.


Had some slight issues gluing the skirt back down afterwards, but thankfully another one of my projects came to the rescue.


So after doing all this work, I confidently put my car in for its mot.

Here's the result;


There rust was two very small holes (one each side) that I had missed due to the angle I was working at. I've fixed that.

The seats rocked forwards a bit to much, a combination of pivoting on the Audi frames and scirocco frame. Some welding has sorting that.

The lights are an easy fix and will do that on the retest.

The Brakes I didn't know about and am actually glad they got picked up when they did. One of the wheel cylinders is leaking so have purchased completely new rear brake assemblies (cylinders and shoes) which should fix that problem.

Whilst inspecting the brakes, I found out that both the rear hub nuts were only finger tight. That's was not something I expected to find.

Some what pissed about the buckled wheel. But have managed to source one on eBay.

Hoping to have her back on the road next week. Fingers crossed.


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[mark1gls]

I get rear wheel play sometimes on an MOT as the nut is only just nipped up as that’s how it’s meant to be, the split pin holds the nut on.
I do now do up the nut so I can just move the big washer then put the rear wheel on and feel for play and do the nut up just enough to stop the play.
To loose and you wear out the bearing, to tight and you wear out the bearing... it’s a bit of practice to get it right.

That’s a good bit of home made patch panel on the rear arch, such a common problem for rust in that area.

[BlackGTX]

Alot of work gone on there, fabricatoion takes times

[Ebies]

So I fixed (at least thought I fixed) all the faults. only for it to fail again on the retest.
I had changed the wheel cylinder & shoes on the weaker side (drivers) in hope that it would sort the axle balance and increase the over all efficiency. I only did the one side for retest for two reasons.
1- I had working on drums brakes, they are a pig of a job at the best of times
2- I felt like the pipe union was going to snap on the drivers side, took alot of careful undoing to free it off. I didn't want to try my luck on the other side.

But it failed all the same, so I changed the wheel cylinder and shoes on the passengers side. And guess what, the union into the cylinder snapped the pipe clean off.
Making new brake lines is no big deal, but who ever picked the location for joining the hard line to the Flexi line needs a high five, to the face, with a brick.

Another stupid idea by Volkswagen were the Allen key bolts holding the wheel cylinder on to the brake plate. My Allen keys just rounded the heads. But thankfully a colleague has a set of these. Turbo sockets, they bite into any stud,bolt etc rounded or not and unscrews it.
Made quick work of my bolts.





That left the issue of finding replacement bolts. Couldn't find any identical replacements. So a quick stop at euro car parts produced these:
(Small bit of hacksawing was required)
Perfect replacement


All the effort, blood lose and swear words were worth it though as it passed the MOT.


Some very small minors that I'm not worried about

Now the modding can properly begin.
Starting with the flat boot build.


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[mark1gls]

Good news on MOT, you can at least enjoy driving the car now.
With the rear wheel cylinder bolts I coat mine in copper grease to stop them rusting in place and coat the head of the bolt as well.

[Ebies]

So I was looking through gum tree the other day, just window shopping for wheels. Not really planning on buying anything, mainly because the rims I liked where out of my budget.
When I stumbled across these;

24hours later and they were mine. At £160 I couldn't not have them

Same diameter as my current set up but they are 8j instead of 7j.
Of course the fitted them the first opportunity I had.
Sadly they didn't fit,but they could made to fit with a few small modifications.
First of all, these god awful, pain in the arse spacers.

With these on and the new wheels fitted, they scrubbed on the outer arch.
So the fix? Remove the spacers.
Yeah, that didnt work either, that gave me this problem,

Previous owner had done the BMW filler neck mod which was the reason for the spacers. So a new genuine neck was needed, I firstly went to dreadnought customs do get one. He had none in stock, to start with I was a bit gutted, but after some quick thinking and research, I learned that MK1 golf necks use the same curves and can be modified to fit. So a quick eBay got me this

Im actually glad I went this direction rather than getting the genuine one. As I now had the option to take a hammer to it should I need to create a bigger gap (I didn't need to in the end but it's nice to have options).

Clearly it doesn't fit as standard;


The bottom section is to long, so after removing a couple of inches (closer to 7).
I had this fitment,

And with the wheel on,


Now that's much better, good clearance all round.
The fronts also needed some modification, the brake carrier was catching on the inside of the rim. So out with the old file and they went from this;

To this;

Taking of just enough to clear the rim.

Happy to say, all the rims are on and road tested and there's not a single scrubbing or rubbing noise to be heard. Which is a Result.

I suppose you'd like to actually see the wheels on the car now.
Before

After


The front will be lowered to better match the rear once I get some new coilovers. The current ones are seized.

I've also been working on the flat boot build, but ive had a change of mind on the lay out, so I need to recut some more plywood.
But here's a small taster


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[Ebies]

So boot build, i started this months ago a have only just today gotten to this stage.

But I'll start at the beginning.
Sound deadening/reduce the vibrations of the wood on metal. If you have a decent budget, Id recommended proper sound deadening.

However I'm a cheap s.o.b and try to save money where ever I can so I went with using foam Matting squares and double sided tape. Turns out the matting will come in useful later on.




Then I started on making the frame work for the plywood to sit on. This was fairly easy and can be removed from the car for access to the fuel tank/spare wheel



Then I cut up the plywood to make the base. And I royally screwed this up.
It to me far to long to figure out I could use the old boot mat as a template. And even when I did do that, I still didn't cut the shape out very well.


It left me with massive gaps on the edges.

I didn't really want to buy more wood to try again cus I would probably get a similar out come. I was stuck at this stage for a while.

Untill I had a brainwave, what if I could close the gap using some left of foam?

So I did a small test;

So far so good, the foam sticks and can fill the gap.

Looks good covered to. so I found my solution.

Next it was time to foam up the plywood.
I much say the foam did a fantastic job and the lines and gaps are much better.

I'm really happy with how it turned out, I doubt I could get the curves any better so I'm defo classing this as a win.


Now to start on the next part;


Foldable armrest with cup holder/s and place for speakers.

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[mark1gls]

Looks good, can you still get to the spare wheel?

[Ebies]

Looks good, can you still get to the spare wheel?

Yes, the entire floor can be removed. should I ever need to get to it


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