Oil Pressure issues
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Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
- unknownmale
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Oil Pressure issues
Rebuilt the head on my 1.8ex this weekend as well as a new oil pump (Old one was noisy)
Starts first time, but sounds like a diesel, so I shut it right off (Also noted the oil light was flashing)
I took the distributor off and spun the oil pump with a drill, took the pressure sender off the side of the head and no oil came out of the hole which I would have expected.
I can't see how the oil pump can be at fault though as it's brand new, and pretty basic, not much can go wrong with it. Any one have any other thoughts before I have to drop the sump off again?
Starts first time, but sounds like a diesel, so I shut it right off (Also noted the oil light was flashing)
I took the distributor off and spun the oil pump with a drill, took the pressure sender off the side of the head and no oil came out of the hole which I would have expected.
I can't see how the oil pump can be at fault though as it's brand new, and pretty basic, not much can go wrong with it. Any one have any other thoughts before I have to drop the sump off again?
- David
- unknownmale
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Re: Oil Pressure issues
Ok, solved that issue. Oil pump was airlocked, dropped the sump, primed the oil pump, resembled, primed again and I have oil pressure.
The noise has now gone apart from a top end tick, which I suspect is coming from one of the lifters.
I did soak them in oil before putting the head together. Anyway of sorting this without stripping the head again?
The noise has now gone apart from a top end tick, which I suspect is coming from one of the lifters.
I did soak them in oil before putting the head together. Anyway of sorting this without stripping the head again?
- David
- james butler
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Re: Oil Pressure issues
ticking should go in time theres no quick way to shut them up as the oil pressure will take time to work all the way around and push all the air out.
hopefully you had a lucky escape as this is the reason why you allways prime the pump before putting it back in the sump.
as a matter of habit i leave the spark plugs out and wizz the crank over with the starter till the oil light goes out, this way theres very little load on the crank till pressure builds up, plus in this case the light not going out would indicate theres a problem before actually running it and causing more damage.
hopefully you had a lucky escape as this is the reason why you allways prime the pump before putting it back in the sump.
as a matter of habit i leave the spark plugs out and wizz the crank over with the starter till the oil light goes out, this way theres very little load on the crank till pressure builds up, plus in this case the light not going out would indicate theres a problem before actually running it and causing more damage.
I dont mind project cars but I HATE SANDING!!!
- unknownmale
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Re: Oil Pressure issues
In hindsight I would have removed the pressure sender the first time I primed it to make sure it was pumping, Didn't realise i'd have to do it before fitting, I guess from dry it sort of airlocks it so it can't pull the oil up.
Might put some additive in tomorrow to help things along.
When I pulled the sump I noticed a few sparkly bits, but all golden, so i'm assuming this is the valve guides settling in?
Might put some additive in tomorrow to help things along.
When I pulled the sump I noticed a few sparkly bits, but all golden, so i'm assuming this is the valve guides settling in?
- David
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Re: Oil Pressure issues
Hi,
Yes you need to prime the pump first. Done by dipping in oil and turning till the pump moves the oil...
The metal in the sum could be or either the main or big ends or from the tappets from dry contact...
I would not use any additives in the oil. The tappets will shut up after 100 miles or so and if not, then one or more tappets cold be nfu and need replacing.
As long as you did not run the engine above idol or rev it to try and put the oil light out then you should be fine
Yes you need to prime the pump first. Done by dipping in oil and turning till the pump moves the oil...
The metal in the sum could be or either the main or big ends or from the tappets from dry contact...
I would not use any additives in the oil. The tappets will shut up after 100 miles or so and if not, then one or more tappets cold be nfu and need replacing.
As long as you did not run the engine above idol or rev it to try and put the oil light out then you should be fine
If it is not broken, Do not fix it !!!
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Re: Oil Pressure issues
Just take it easy for a 1000 miles, no going over half throttle and 3000 rpm, I would then change the oil and filter again in case any other bits are floating around in there.
Mk1 78 Scirocco GLS 1.6 FR, weekend toy.
Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
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Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
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- unknownmale
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Re: Oil Pressure issues
I've ordered a couple of lifters, was going to do about 100 miles slow city driving and see if the lifter shuts up, do an oil and filter change and perhaps look at switching out the noisy lifter incase it's faulty.mark1gls wrote:Just take it easy for a 1000 miles, no going over half throttle and 3000 rpm, I would then change the oil and filter again in case any other bits are floating around in there.
- David
Re: Oil Pressure issues
I recently blew my head gasket whilst visiting London, and got an unfamiliar local mechanic to replace it and he included replacing the oil and filter as part of the service. Once it was back together he said it will sound tappy for the first 200 miles or so, but it's remained tappy for about 800 now.
Today the oil light came on whilst driving and what appeared to be the sound of a constant buzzer (didn't think there was one in the circuit?) but the oil level is fine and when I turn the engine off and back on again, the light and buzzer stop but then come back on again within 2mins.
It's also a 1.8 EX - any ideas of what the fault may be? Is it likely to be an airlock as described meaning the pump isn't pumping the oil up to the head properly?
Today the oil light came on whilst driving and what appeared to be the sound of a constant buzzer (didn't think there was one in the circuit?) but the oil level is fine and when I turn the engine off and back on again, the light and buzzer stop but then come back on again within 2mins.
It's also a 1.8 EX - any ideas of what the fault may be? Is it likely to be an airlock as described meaning the pump isn't pumping the oil up to the head properly?
1991 Scirocco MKII - 1.8EX - weber carb
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Re: Oil Pressure issues
Buzzer is low oil pressure and it will only work/come on above 2000 rpm.
How old is the oil pump?
Maybe best to fit a new oil pump or check the sensor.
Is the tapping noise really loud? My tappets was only noisy for about 5 minutes on idle after rebuilding my engine and head then they have been quiet ever since.
How old is the oil pump?
Maybe best to fit a new oil pump or check the sensor.
Is the tapping noise really loud? My tappets was only noisy for about 5 minutes on idle after rebuilding my engine and head then they have been quiet ever since.
Mk1 78 Scirocco GLS 1.6 FR, weekend toy.
Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
Membership No. 323
Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
Membership No. 323
Re: Oil Pressure issues
The buzzer coming on at 2000rpm correlates now I think about it. Thanks for that bit of knowledge.
The pump could be original - it's got 125k on the clock now but I've only had it for the past 2 years/10k.
Tapping isn't massively noisey, but noticeable even when warm compared to how it was before the head blew.
I can't find the oil pressure sensor on ETKA - anyone got a part number? £40 for an oil pump isn't the end of the world if it's that though.
The pump could be original - it's got 125k on the clock now but I've only had it for the past 2 years/10k.
Tapping isn't massively noisey, but noticeable even when warm compared to how it was before the head blew.
I can't find the oil pressure sensor on ETKA - anyone got a part number? £40 for an oil pump isn't the end of the world if it's that though.
1991 Scirocco MKII - 1.8EX - weber carb
Re: Oil Pressure issues
Just found this great article which explains the VW dynamic oil pressure warning system quite well:
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option ... &Itemid=28
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option ... &Itemid=28
1991 Scirocco MKII - 1.8EX - weber carb
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Re: Oil Pressure issues
Lots on ebay, just check the pressure reading on the side of yours if you can see it if not just go by the colour, usually Blue one on side of head and White one above oil filter.
They fit lots of VW and I think you can still get them from a VW dealer for not much more money.
I've read some people have problem with after market ones failing quickly but I've never had a problem before, but saying that the last time I bought some I got them from VW.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... h&_sacat=0
They fit lots of VW and I think you can still get them from a VW dealer for not much more money.
I've read some people have problem with after market ones failing quickly but I've never had a problem before, but saying that the last time I bought some I got them from VW.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... h&_sacat=0
Mk1 78 Scirocco GLS 1.6 FR, weekend toy.
Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
Membership No. 323
Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
Membership No. 323
Re: Oil Pressure issues
It was a faulty oil pressure sender. My 1.8EX has a 1.8 bar white sender and a replacement was £3.99 Inc postage! Thanks for the info.
Still not sure why it's so tappy compared to before the head gasket replacement, but at least it's running!
Still not sure why it's so tappy compared to before the head gasket replacement, but at least it's running!
1991 Scirocco MKII - 1.8EX - weber carb
- unknownmale
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Re: Oil Pressure issues
If the tapping doesn't go away then you may need to replace the lifters. I replaced all mine when doing the head gasket, but two of the new ones were faulty which sounded awful, after 40 miles I decided it was too loud so I replaced them again (After leaving them soaked in oil for a couple of days. No issue now!110% wrote:It was a faulty oil pressure sender. My 1.8EX has a 1.8 bar white sender and a replacement was £3.99 Inc postage! Thanks for the info.
Still not sure why it's so tappy compared to before the head gasket replacement, but at least it's running!
- David