Hmm.... Issues with DX engine

[haddock_n_chips]

Okey dokey, no probs.

It runs and drives once wamed up. So I think I might take it into work and get them to give it a once over and go from there

If I don't do this I'll give you a shout Tim. We're away over Easter but free the weekend after

Really appreciate the offer of a hand though

[haddock_n_chips]

I did a quick video this afternoon https://youtu.be/O5V8HrvzZ5A

[Tim_R]

Did you get to the bottom of this or do you still need fuel pressure testing?

[haddock_n_chips]

Hey Tim

Thanks for the reply,

Still struggling but the car is over at a local VW indie garage now as i am not able to work on the car due to small surgery I'm awaiting (not supposed to be doing any heavy lifting/strenous work)

and i got pee'd off with it! But they gunna do a couple of other jobs for me too.


I'll let you know if i need a hand :)

[Tim_R]

Ok fella, no worries. Hope the surgery goes off ok and you are back soon.

Tim

[Hammy-GTX]

Interesting to see what the problem is as my GTX is a bit rough on start up sometimes and sometimes takes 3-4 times to start once warmed up and then cooled :S Is a bit embarrassing in a crowded car park... And for reference my engine has marks on the pulley for timing because thats what I had too use as someone put the cam pulley on back to front! Oh and get well soon ;)
Alex

[haddock_n_chips]

Righty!

Car back today from garage! Its only been in the garage for............ over a month!

They are a very friendly local place and were happy to work on it in-between jobs etc.... and as im still recovering i cant drive any way so absolutely no rush! (and they rather nicely only charged me a very small sum!)

Mechanic wasnt 100% happy as he couldnt get the idle perfect (it seems fine to me?!) but its running!

Basically problem was a few things

Air Leaks....

Timing...

Fuelling...

They checked my valve timing from the cambelt/cam seal change and confirmed it was set up OK, so no problems there! (woop!)

They timed the engine up better (i had it nearly there...!)

They reset the CO and fuelling, turns out my little garage CO analyser isn't that great

The other issue was.... Injector shrouds! I'd have never thought it myself or even found it

Where the injector goes into the head there are brass adaptors screwed into the head, these fit onto plastic injector shrouds. Turns out a couple were broken and letting too much air into the mixture.

Luckily VW heritage sell them (about £1.50 each) as they are NLA from VW

So now the horrid back fire has gone and the engine is running a lot better

Slight hiccup on way home from garage, i think the lift pump / main fuel pump may be on the way out as it spluttered a bit and nearly died. The lift pump has always been noisey since ive had the car and couldnt hear it when it spluttered. Also pulled over and started again and it was running fine, blasted it round the by-pass and no problems....! Could be the relay too i suppose?!

Anyway just happy i got the car home even though i cant drive at the moment (mechanic brought me back home in it)

Thanks for the advice and offers of help, hopefully were back and running again now.

I'll see how i get on with it for now, then possibly change the lift pump, main pump and relay

Then i gotta track down that annoying battery drain.... (i'm almost 100% sure its the radio)

Will.

[Hammy-GTX]

Good to hear its running a lot better :) may look into the injectors shrouds on mine ;)

I think my fuel pump is on its way out, sounds like its a wood chipper sometimes haha

Alex

[DannyH]

i would try the relay first, it's the cheapest option (come on i'm a scotsman and i live in yorkshire) and it's always good to have spare one anyway even if it's not that?

[haddock_n_chips]

Go steady if you are checking the injector shrouds.

They have more than likely been sat in the head happily for 25+ years, getting hot/cold/hot/cold....

The ones in my car were very brittle, and not easy to remove. I even had a spare head in the garage and i cant get them out of that head, i'd have to break them out.

Obviously this is not idea/an option if the head is still attached to the block, if they dont come out easily (do it when the head is warm) then dont try to force them out as they will break and leave crap going into the engine.

As for the relay.... I do indeed need to grab a new one as spare any way :)

Oh and to remove the brass adaptor in the head you'll need a 13mm allen key - Not a common size as thats pretty big for an allen key!