Relocation relocation,battery in boot

[MrD]

Righty me again,i want to relocate my battery into my boot,so i can put my fuel pump and acumalator where the battery was, ( noise is the issue here ) will be getting one of these

http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/power-po ... aign=May09#
To put it in.
Question is what size cable will i need to instal it ? was thinking of using the 4 awg that i have used to wire in my amp,will that be heavy duty enough ?

And will i need to also run an earth lead,or will i be ok earthing to the body near the battery when i put it in the back ?

[Boumsong]

You'll be fine earthing it to the body, just make sure you get a good clean connection.

[MrD]

Cool cheers ,was hoping that would be the case,marine place that does the battery box also does really haevy duty cable too,so will get 4m of that,going to run it under the car

[scalainj]

Thats a really good idea for locating the battery in

Where in the boot are you planning to mount the battery? Use a good thick eatrh cable and get a good connection somewhere in the boot

I'd use something fairly hefty as it needs to be able to transmit the full cold cranking ability of the battery which is usually a lot of amps. I'm no electrical genius but thoughts that come to mind are 1) Run the power cable down the car inside away from other wiring as best as possible, especially any speaker wire as alternator whine is not a good tune and 2) i know cabling leaks 'power' over distance but i'm not sure 4m is enough distance so make sure its high quality and thick enough otherwise you'll get a remarkable amount of heat build up 3) Insulate it well where it runs through bulkheads etc. Chaffing a main power cable can have detrimental effects on the longevity of your circuits i found

I may just have taught granny to suck eggs there but hope its useful

Not sure of the benfits of along the underside as road grit, salt, water and worst a snag could be bad

Andy

[filmidget]

That battery box - how well sealed is it? Has it a facility for an external vent?

Things I would be checking before I stuck a car battery in the car with me, especially sitting next to fuel tank and pump

[MrD]

Was going to use this cable,should be able to handle nasty under car conditions.

http://www.safety-marine.co.uk/ wont let me post the full link ? do a search for cable,and it comes out at tresult no 17 2nd page on this site,looks like it`s good stuff

Thats a really good idea for locating the battery in

yes much better than the motorsport equiv i have seen ,which is usually just an ally bracket,so battery would be visible.would rather it was safe inside a resistant box.Need a big h/duty battery,as can`t use my stereo without running it down.Have been looking at dry cell bats but can`t afford one ,v expensive




Plan on mounting it right at the back of the car,will drill through the bottom and bolt it all up nice and secure.Not sure if there is a vent or not.The plan is to mount the high pres pump,where the battery was,will possibly be mounting the swirl pot under rear seat where old tank used to be,as i have the round cut out so i have access to it if need be.

[scalainj]

I can't open their website for reasons unknown. What are you going to use to fasten the cable? I'm not sold on the underside of the car route, realising marine cable has to be salt water resistant etc but i'm sure i'd go for an inside cable run. Can't give you solid tangible benefit reasons for that though.

I've looked at the battery relocation but ultimately i want it in the centre in front of the rear wheels if possible but someone put a spare wheel well there. Is this possible in yours or off to the left near the rear arch?
When i first stuck a stereo in i put amps etc on board spanning between the two 'shelves' at the back of the boot. Its was quite a weighty set up and you knew all about it so i moved them to a board on the back of the rear seat inside the wheelbase albeit higher in the car than i liked but it made a difference. Certainly when pushing on a little anyway.

I've not done this so totally subjective but i have sat and thought about it - Too much perhaps

[MrD]

Here is the rear layout,plan on putting the battery box where the sheet of wet+dry is.Might just run the cable down the roll cage then,where the power cable for my amp is at the moment,this will be taken out as amp will only require a foot or so to wire it in once battery has been moved,pumps that are in front of tank will be moved (too noisey) and am mulling over plating out the back in chequer plate,but it`s v expensive,and extra weight..



Here is the info on the cable,£17.49 a m for 4 awg ! ouch ! might just use the 4 awg i have the amp wired in with.



ANCOR Marine Grade wire is manufactured from tinned copper stranding for maximum protection against corrosion and electrolysis. Its ultra flexible stranding resists fatigue due to vibration and ANCOR's proprietary premium vinyl insulation stays flexible even in extreme cold and will resist salt water, battery acid, oil, diesel, petrol and ultra-violet radiation. This exclusive insulation is rated at 600 volts and is also resistant to heat and abrasion. ANCOR Marine Grade wire exceeds all UL 1426, US Coast Guard Charterboat (CFR Title 46) and also ABYC marine standards.

This wire is supplied in multiples of 1m lengths.

To order 1m add Quantity: 1 to the basket, to order 2m add Quantity: 2 to the basket, to order 3m add Quantity: 3 to the basket, etc

How to select your cable size:

Calculate the total cable length (in meters) by measuring the total length of the cable required from the positive (+) power source connection on your battery to the electrical device and then back to the negative (-) power source connection on the battery again. (Note that the power source connections are usually the main battery terminals, or busbars)

Example: If your maximum working current is about 80amps, then using the 80amp column you can see that if your total cable run is between 12 - 15m (there and back) then you will require 4awg cable (19mm2)

[scalainj]

I'd put the battery where the amp is now if your moving the pumps.

And are you running the cable to hook up to the original postion battery postive wiring or planning to rewire from the new position?

Re cable - don't they do 'kits' as such - see what they use and run it down the sill on the fusebox side. Keep speaker and stereo power supply away from it though.

Also thought occurs that alternator runs at 55-90 amps dependent on which one you have but can the battery deliver more than that when starting? Not sure power cable for the amp will be enough.

Please note - not expert

Cool setup

[MrD]

And are you running the cable to hook up to the original postion battery postive wiring or planning to rewire from the new position?

Will be getting a propper terminal connection block thingy,and just cut off the ends of the leads that go to the battery,then will prob also get some new battery terminal connectors,same as terminal block.
Just saw another battery box that has a battery meter and cut out switch built in,£35 though ! i have a battery cut switch which i will instal near drivers seat.
Yeah fusion do a kit which is what i am using at the moment,tp power the amp ,looking at all the info of cable length /load etc i think i will be fine using 4awg,it does not start getting silly until lengths of 19 or so meters are used,from what i can make out on the site,battery is currently (ha ha) old bat from my diesel van 65 amps but need to go larger,due to power drain from both amps 700w in total ,the volt gauge is flapping about when the bass note comes in.need a bigger altenator too !
Only really do short runs in the roc as it`s my 2nd vehicle / fun / track car

And yes i have power leads running down 1 side of cage,and phono lead running down the other.Don`t get any interference what so ever ,which is a first for me stereo sounds crystal clear even when flat out,can`t sit in the car it`s that loud !

This place does all the connectors and cable,much much cheaper too http://www.nexxia.co.uk/Car_install_Accessories.htm

[filmidget]

This lot any use:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... ycable.php

[MrD]

Just the job cheers
Thanks for all the input peeps ! would no doubt make a right hash up without bouncing ideas off you guy`s .
Have found that moving my sub to face forward has had a detrimental effect on my bass,need to turn it back so it faces rear.Have been looking on the bay for another one the same,i am a bit ocd in having things that are matched,just looks odd having the one sub on the one side,going really cheap now for sub and amp the same.
Will look into ways of making them quick release,for track day fun,hate making holes in the floor to secure stuff too,will have the tank out 1 day and weld them all up.

[79 Scirocco]

Go to a fabracation suppliers shop. one that sells welders. Get some heavy duty welding earth lead. perfect. About 10 square. no bother on the cold starts and about £3 a meter.They will have the grub screw type connections as well. Ask them and they will show what connections they have.

pat.

[MrD]

Will have to have a search

[Junglist]

Righty me again,i want to relocate my battery into my boot,so i can put my fuel pump and acumalator where the battery was, ( noise is the issue here ) will be getting one of these

http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/power-po ... aign=May09#
To put it in.
Question is what size cable will i need to instal it ? was thinking of using the 4 awg that i have used to wire in my amp,will that be heavy duty enough ?

And will i need to also run an earth lead,or will i be ok earthing to the body near the battery when i put it in the back ?

I've not read this full thread (can't be bothered!) so if it's too late, ignore this. That cable you're planning to use is shite and overpriced. I can give you everything you might need for battery installation, I work in that game. Heat, oil and flame retardant triple insulated rubber flexible welding cable is what you want in 16mmsq. It lasts forever and is incredibly difficult to damage and very easy to work with. Normal battery cable cracks and gets breaks after time. I can supply all accessories you might need, terminals, clamps, take-offs, cable ends, heat shrink sleeving, crimps, solder (if you want to be overly proffessional), cutters, terminal blocks, etc. etc. and I'll give them you at a price just covering my costs. Let me know what you need. I can send you the relevant catalogue pages if you want.

Best regards, and best of luck with the installation.

Kieran 07999370473

Call/text if you want.