For all Carb and Injection engines, standard or modified plus non-standard engine transplants. Heads; Blocks; Cooling (including heater issues related to the cooling system); Mounts etc
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Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
So I'm a bit reluctant to mess with the throttle idle screw, as we put the idle screw next to the metering head back to where it was post broken connectors on the AAV and she's running like a dream albiet a tiny bit rich still. A friend is going to look at setting up the timing on Friday to ensure it's tuned properly.
I've still got to find an air pipe that has nearly chaffed through on the AAV but she'll last for now.
The car is not hunting at all now.
I think I can close this rather long thread off.
Massive thanks from the boy and me to all you guys that helped get us back on the road.
That’s good news as they run best on super unleaded (supermarkets vary from 97 to 99 RON) and all should be E5
I was asking as you have to retard the timing by 6 degrees to use normal unleaded but the extra ethanol (E10) in normal unleaded I don’t think is good news for older cars.
Fit new cooper washers 14mm at the inlet (same size as sump plug washer) and 12mm at the outlet. The picture shows washers but I’ve never had any when buying a filter…
The fuel filter is best changed every 2 years or 20,000 miles, and buy a good quality filter like the MANN one listed above.
Got a new filter Mark just need the washers. What thickness are the copper washers? I've seen 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm. Does it have to be a specific thickness?
I don’t think the thickness makes much difference as the banjo bolt are quite long but the ones I’ve used are 1mm thick.
Have a cloth and some sort of container handy as when you undo the bolts as fuel sprays out and there is usually quite a bit of fuel in the fuel filter so keep it level when removing then pour the fuel into a container and it makes a good cleaner for oil on the engine.
I leave the filter where it is until I loosen both banjo bolts, you need a couple of big spanners to hold the filter still, I think it’s 22mm and 24mm spanners? check with the new filter.
It does take some cranking of the engine to fill the new filter before the car will start or it may start then stall before need to crank it over before starting again.
Fantastic info as usual! Can’t thank you enough. I’ll be busy this weekend 🫣.
I’m hoping to get a hose from Blueshark who has some air filter box clips for us. If I struggle to get one then I’ll make one myself with the correct diameter hose.
Got a few jobs this weekend.
New fuel and air filter.
Earth lead from Coil to Rocker.
Fix small leak from oil filter housing.
No worries and happy to help.
AAV hose seems to be no longer available new. Blueshark is a great help with those hard to get parts and I’ve brought a few things from him in the past.
mark1gls wrote:
I replaced mine the other week when messing around with the accumulator.
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The new Mann filter looks huge compared to the Bosch one we have fitted. I’m not sure the clamp is going to fit. Where did you get a clamp for that Mann filter?
Early cars (pre 1985 ish) had the thinner filter, later cars were fitted with the bigger fuel filter, I guess someone before fitted the wrong thinner fuel filter and changed the jubilee clip.
Thanks for the info. We bought the bigger Mann filter as you suggested earlier. Never thought to check the clip size. I will have a good look tomorrow and see if I have anything at work. If not eBay have some clips.
