Scirocco Register

While replacing the right rear leaking brake cylinder, I snapped the brake line at the back of the cylinder.

How the heck do you tools to the hard line to flex hose union above the axel beam? There’s no room for spanners and nothing in Haynes.

Any hints or tips would be most welcome. I don’t fancy having to drop the axel down!

I used a crows feet spanner on one end and just about got a spanner on the other end to hold the joint when undoing it.
I used an extension bar and rachet from a basic halford set on the crows feet

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333377811116 ... SwhrRftiue

At the end you will be dropping the axle.

It is more work but the easiest and best way to be sure it is done right.

Sorry to say but it is the best way to go.

Joost

Agree with Blueshark, if you have already snapped it at the slave cylinder then the chances are it’s going to be even crustier on the joints at the flexi.
My top tip is to buy a good quality brake flare spanner.

Flags wrote: ↑Fri Jul 15, 2022 10:09 pm My top tip is to buy a good quality brake flare spanner.

If you are replacing the flexi hoses, if the flare nuts on the main brake line are significantly corroded, you may find the correct sized flare spanner slips on the nut, as the nut is effectively between sizes. In this case you may need to improvise to avoid irreversible damage to the nuts. Penetrating oil and copious patience more than likely also needed.

I've decided to do the fixed and flexi hose replacements, just need to get the old bits out. I've ordered crows feet spanners and will give it a go when the bits arrive.

On the subject of dropping the rear beam, Haynes has scared me. It talks about the possibility of snapping the axle to body bolts. After 32 years, what's the likelihood of that happening? If I disconnect the suspension tops, can I swivel it down a bit - enough to get to the brake unions?

I would also start soaking the joints in Plusgas penetrating oil to help with undoing them.

if replacing the hardlines you can cut the lines and them use a socket on the flare to undo from the flexi

UPDATE - this was a real pain in the 'arris to get done. I did have to drop the axel in the end and was lucky that all nuts and bolts cooperated. As this was the side with the fuel pump, space was limited to get spanners into the flex and hard lines.

The first attempt failed as the union between the new flexi hose and the old underbody hard line leaked. It looks like someone had had a go sometime before my ownership and there was a join in the long line to the engine bay which would allow me to replace a length. It was where it runs along near the fuel tank.

I replaced that length and unsurprisingly that union leaked between old pipe and new pipe as well. 200euros later and a professional garage level flaring kit, more pipe and connectors I replaced another section and that union as well. Seems not to be leaking now, so back to the test centre tomorrow morning and see if it will pass. 3rd time lucky.

Doing some digging is seems there are two types of brake flarings and fittings - SAE and DIN. I think the previous fix used SAE flaring - I used DIN and it seems to be tight now. I am assuming the car should be DIN as it was made in Germany, is metric etc.etc. Not found any references to the different types on this forum - anyone else had issues?

I have not had to grapple with the hard lines on the Scirocco yet but I did encounter this issue recently on a Volvo. It seems there are three types of flare: single, double/SAE and bubble/DIN/ISO. Single is rarely used on cars, double/SAE is common on American and Asian cars and DIN/ISO is pretty much standard on European cars.

Nice, brief slide show covering how to identify the differences here:

http://fedhillusa.com/?page=flare

Of course, you’re not out of the woods once you know that you need a European ISO flare. The nuts tend not to say what flare they are for. I resorted to reading the reviews on Amazon to find ones that folk had used on European cars. Also, the majority of cheap flare tools online originate from China, are sold by US companies and hence are SAE and wrong for our cars.

I would concur with getting a reasonable quality flare tool plus a suitable grease for the die. Also pipe benders suitable for the diameter of tube you’re working on (typically 3/16”) and make sure you get cunifer (cupronickel) brake line if you want stuff that won’t corrode rather than plain copper which is too fragile to use safety under cars.