Exhaust Co2 content

[Flags]

I’m attempting the lhs wishbone on my auto at the weekend.
Haynes manual makes it sound so easy but I know it’s not going to be as simple as just unbolting 3 engine/gearbox mounts whilst supporting it on a jack.
I still can’t work out what’s supposed to stop the whole thing taking a nosedive into the radiator.
I’d wait until I do the manual conversion but the ball joint is still the 39 year old original and is knocking like crazy, funny that the easy one has already been done.
I’m also going to attempt to fit a front anti roll bar at the same time.

[RussGLAuto]

Ooo, would love to give you a hand but you're not just around the corner...

Can I ask you take a few pics or an idiots guide please? That would be great! The ball joint on my LHS is original too, funny that. Have you got an engine hoist to steady the lump? Like you say, how hard can it be! Probably very. Can we leave all the hoses and ancillaries connected, we only need an inch or two lift to clear that pesky bolt?

What about the exhaust? The list goes on.

Any pointers of how not to do it would be great.

Thanks

Russ

[RussGLAuto]

Maybe keep the old radiator as a spare or next time you do a coolant change, change the radiator and test it under pressure?

My wife has had a couple of newer VW with a full VW service history and I’ve not been happy with the quality of work they do, things like changing the brake fluid, they bleed the system on the front passenger side bleed nipple and none of the other bleed nipples were touched so old fluid in the pipes, there was also bits floating around in the brake fluid reservoir….
Missing/broken clips from the plastic underneath engine cover.

Even now with us having a 4 year old Mazda 6, and sent to a Mazda dealer to keep the service record the car come back from a service with the plastic cover for the oil filter only just had the bolt done up by a few thread and 1 wheel bolt lose….

I’m sure there are good main dealers out there but I’m yet to find one or I’m just being being to picky and checking all the work they do to our cars so that’s why I try and do most things myself.

Sorry going of topic

Not at all. Did my daughters Fiat 500 full service last week as Fiat wanted £500+ to change the oil, air, cabin and oil filters, plugs, front discs and pads. All the parts came to about £150 from auto doc and was a mornings work after viewing some YouTubers. Easy! On pulling the cabin air filter it was filthy, wager it's never been changed in the previous 5 years Fiat have supposed to have been doing it!

Getting a bit cocky now, last MOT on the Volvo said rear discs and pads need doing... they should be delivered this week. ££££ saved.

In all fairness, Gladys's simple engineering has taught me just how simple other modern cars are too.

Loose wheel bolt?! No excuse for that!

[Flags]

I’ll report back at the weekend Russ.
There should be enough wiggle room on all the ancillaries to lift it the inch or so but it’s got to be worth checking the thousands of vacuum tubes fitted to the 2B5 carb afterwards.
I’m planning to stick the front on axle stands and use a jack with a small square block under the sump.
The battery and the oversized wash bottle is being removed to give better access to the left hand gearbox mount and I’m undecided whether to take the radiator out as a precaution.

[mark1gls]

When you come to torque up the big main bolt going through the wishbone the car is meant to be on its wheels under its own weight so the wishbones are at there normal position.

When I changed mine I lowered the car onto a couple of breeze blocks so I could use the torque wrench but mine is a manual gearbox.

I’m not 100% sure this is really necessary but it may be worth trying to carefully lift the wishbone if you can, blocks of wood to protect the paint and a trolley Jack may help…?

[mark1gls]

(Can’t seem to edit my post…) when I say lower the car onto breeze blocks I mean put the wheel back on and lower the wheel onto the breeze block.

[RussGLAuto]

I’ll report back at the weekend Russ.
There should be enough wiggle room on all the ancillaries to lift it the inch or so but it’s got to be worth checking the thousands of vacuum tubes fitted to the 2B5 carb afterwards.
I’m planning to stick the front on axle stands and use a jack with a small square block under the sump.
The battery and the oversized wash bottle is being removed to give better access to the left hand gearbox mount and I’m undecided whether to take the radiator out as a precaution.

Great, looking forward to it. I think!

[Flags]

Well that was an epic fail. As I went to move the better half’s 500 to make room I noticed that 1 of the rear wheels was rather moist on the tyre and very wet on the inside of the rim so I spent all Saturday changing rear brakes instead.
It’s going to have to wait for a couple of weeks now.

[RussGLAuto]

No worries, it happens! Busy taking my Briggs n Stratton lawnmower engine to bits myself this weekend, never starts when hot!

[RussGLAuto]

Just to close off this thread, the re-test got the exhaust Co2 down to under 1.0 with the help of new plugs, coil and HT leads and a warmed up engine! A noticeable improvement in starting too, never changed them since I got it back in 2018 so well overdue.

Also got me to look behind the rain scuttle. A right birds nest of muck behind there!

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Guessing those odd tabs on the drivers side is cut outs for left hand drive versions...

[RussGLAuto]

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That's better!

Looking for a portable car lift now to get under her (!) to sort out that missing stud on the exhaust - manifold connection. Think they had some at the PC show but never got there.