PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
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Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
I used a little hand held vacuum pump for testing. The USPro thing I mentioned before. They are sold as part of brake bleeding kits and are very cheap. You can just suck, but it’s a bit distracting especially if you want to test whether components will hold a vacuum. I used a length of vacuum hose with a suitable bolt stuffed in the end to block ports for testing. You could just put your thumb over it.
What you need to do is confirm that with a suitable vacuum the plunger on the 3/4 point unit will withdraw fully and stay there. This is the “throttle plate actuator leakage test” in section A.3 of the manual. If it won’t then you have an air leak in your 3/4 point unit and will need to try to source a working secondhand spare or fork out £400 for a new one.
Assuming the 3/4 point unit is good then either you’re not getting a good enough vacuum due to a leak somewhere else or, if your vacuum tubes are definitely connected up correctly, the idle over run valve may not be closing properly when it loses voltage.
The idle at normal operating temperature depends on air at atmospheric pressure being able to get from the red hose connected to the top of the carb, through the blue one, through the overrun valve, and into the yellow vacuum hose. The valve closes when it loses voltage and this enables the manifold vacuum on the pink hose fully to withdraw the throttle actuator; like your test blocking the yellow port while pulling vacuum on the pink one.
Remember I said you’d need to understand the thing before you’d be able to get it working?!
What you need to do is confirm that with a suitable vacuum the plunger on the 3/4 point unit will withdraw fully and stay there. This is the “throttle plate actuator leakage test” in section A.3 of the manual. If it won’t then you have an air leak in your 3/4 point unit and will need to try to source a working secondhand spare or fork out £400 for a new one.
Assuming the 3/4 point unit is good then either you’re not getting a good enough vacuum due to a leak somewhere else or, if your vacuum tubes are definitely connected up correctly, the idle over run valve may not be closing properly when it loses voltage.
The idle at normal operating temperature depends on air at atmospheric pressure being able to get from the red hose connected to the top of the carb, through the blue one, through the overrun valve, and into the yellow vacuum hose. The valve closes when it loses voltage and this enables the manifold vacuum on the pink hose fully to withdraw the throttle actuator; like your test blocking the yellow port while pulling vacuum on the pink one.
Remember I said you’d need to understand the thing before you’d be able to get it working?!
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
I'm pretty much heartbroken.. I'm 200 pounds into this carb and I believe it can be good .. but i really understand why people put a webber on... You and GTii have been so good that I shall carry on... I think it may be the overrrun solenoid and I will investigate but I might have to call it quits... I just dont have the time and money to fix this.. I will of course sell the carb tos omeone on here as I think it really is just a few settings and screws .
My issue is that I have had a hard year. i work for the government and have been part of their covid surge team. i just want a summer drive to make things seem ok... I don;t want a show queen or anything like that , just to enjoy my scirocco.. This carb is killing me and I can't afford to carry on.
Ive seen the webber on ebay and I am confident i can borrow the cash to get this on just so I can drive.,... If anyone wants a pierburg with new wax stat and hoses and gaskets etc then please just ask me...
My issue is that I have had a hard year. i work for the government and have been part of their covid surge team. i just want a summer drive to make things seem ok... I don;t want a show queen or anything like that , just to enjoy my scirocco.. This carb is killing me and I can't afford to carry on.
Ive seen the webber on ebay and I am confident i can borrow the cash to get this on just so I can drive.,... If anyone wants a pierburg with new wax stat and hoses and gaskets etc then please just ask me...
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
Before you throw in the towel and fit a Weber be aware that they aren’t a panacea. My Scirocco came with a Weber fitted by a previous owner and it never ran right. It would conk out due to fuel starvation, especially going uphill. I restricted the fuel return (which seems an awful bodge) and this improved it a lot but it still had flat spots and sometimes seemed like it was thinking about conking out. It was also running a bit lean and tending to overheat. It has run perfectly since I restored the Pierburg and installed it. That said, I think some of my Weber’s problems were due to a leaking carb flange.
I feel your pain! I also work in the public sector and had a busy and anxious year. That said, it was great as a “keyworker” driving to work on deserted roads in the Scirocco.
My advice is to work through the Pierburg testing regime methodically. You don’t actually know what’s wrong with it yet. When I first installed mine I struggled a bit with the idle settings until I realised the throttle cable wasn’t quite right and was holding the throttle slightly open.
I feel your pain! I also work in the public sector and had a busy and anxious year. That said, it was great as a “keyworker” driving to work on deserted roads in the Scirocco.
My advice is to work through the Pierburg testing regime methodically. You don’t actually know what’s wrong with it yet. When I first installed mine I struggled a bit with the idle settings until I realised the throttle cable wasn’t quite right and was holding the throttle slightly open.
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
The manual suggests to test the overrun solenoid, simply unplug while the engine is running and the engine should shut off. It would be interesting to see if unplugging it has any effect at all. To test the electrical part of the solenoid, with the ignition switched off, measure the electrical continuity between the connector and earth. If there is no continuity. the solenoid coil has failed. If you do have continuity (I'm guessing between 10 ohms and 100 ohm), I'm guessing the fault could be mechanical (solenoid stuck) or vacuum related.
1992 VW Scirocco GT II 1.8 90PS Brilliant Black 30k
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
SO I tested everything as suggested. The current is all present, when removing the plug to the overrun solenoid the car carries on running.
There is 0 volts when ignition off and 12 to it when on. There is no vacuum past it when ignition off but vacuum past it when on so the overrun solenoid is not the issue.
I now have the carb off and checked all lines which are fine and new.
I am trying to test this 3PU as it has to be that unit causing the issue which is ironic in that its more expensive as a part then an entire carb
The reason i think it is this is that given the nature of the system it can't be anything else. The ovverun and switchover have current and have passed the tests as per the manual.
I'm hoping someone will have a spare one.
There is 0 volts when ignition off and 12 to it when on. There is no vacuum past it when ignition off but vacuum past it when on so the overrun solenoid is not the issue.
I now have the carb off and checked all lines which are fine and new.
I am trying to test this 3PU as it has to be that unit causing the issue which is ironic in that its more expensive as a part then an entire carb
The reason i think it is this is that given the nature of the system it can't be anything else. The ovverun and switchover have current and have passed the tests as per the manual.
I'm hoping someone will have a spare one.
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
Attached is a picture of the 3 point unit. Port blocked off for the test. Thanks kindly to Ian who is seeing if he has a spare.
Today while I had the carb off I read that Pierburg manual again. But this time looking at the carb on a table and being able to see everything.
It has started to make a little more sense now.
Today while I had the carb off I read that Pierburg manual again. But this time looking at the carb on a table and being able to see everything.
It has started to make a little more sense now.
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
I think after this you are going to be the “go to guy” for anything Pierburg carbs.
Great thread with plenty of info for anyone searching so please keep updating us on your progress.
Great thread with plenty of info for anyone searching so please keep updating us on your progress.
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
I'ts really odd but it snaps into place all of a sudden. Suddenly today i just got it. I now know I will have to wait for a 3 point unit so I bought a weber anyway as a good deal that got listen on ebay. 150 all in including adaptor flange for base and also for airbox plus a spare.. I'm going to change the jets and at least I can drive while I source the 3 point unit.
That Pierburg manual GTii and Wrecktangle talk about is worth reading a few times as what seems complex actually become a very simple procedure and working mechanism.
The weber is temporary for this summer but this pierburg will be back on the car as soon as the 3 point unit is found.
Now the issue more pressing is servicing the entire car and I guess it's across a few sections of this board but if anyone has recommendations as to what spark plugs, oil , filter, anti freeze or whatever please let me know or point me in the right direction .
That Pierburg manual GTii and Wrecktangle talk about is worth reading a few times as what seems complex actually become a very simple procedure and working mechanism.
The weber is temporary for this summer but this pierburg will be back on the car as soon as the 3 point unit is found.
Now the issue more pressing is servicing the entire car and I guess it's across a few sections of this board but if anyone has recommendations as to what spark plugs, oil , filter, anti freeze or whatever please let me know or point me in the right direction .
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
You probably want to start a new thread on servicing. What I used was.
Spark plugs - New old stock Bosch W7DTC
Oil - Quantum Synta 10W 40 Semi-synthetic
Filter - VW 056115561G
Coolant - Comma Xstream G48
The oil and filter change is one of the easiest I’ve ever done. Everything is so accessible. I have at the back of my mind that the spark plugs are fiddly to get in - use an off-cut of garden hose to hold them. If you’re going to do a coolant flush it’s probably worth getting a new thermostat and plastic thermostat housing too.
Spark plugs - New old stock Bosch W7DTC
Oil - Quantum Synta 10W 40 Semi-synthetic
Filter - VW 056115561G
Coolant - Comma Xstream G48
The oil and filter change is one of the easiest I’ve ever done. Everything is so accessible. I have at the back of my mind that the spark plugs are fiddly to get in - use an off-cut of garden hose to hold them. If you’re going to do a coolant flush it’s probably worth getting a new thermostat and plastic thermostat housing too.
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
I can put this under the Engine category. I will remove the section of my post about servicing as if anyone else searching for Pierburg finds this post I guess they won;t be interested in servicing lol.
Thank you for the advice.
P
Thank you for the advice.
P
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
Now this is interesting, it seems the Chinese have copied (but of course!) the 2E2 and offering them for sale on eBay:
Cheep at the price if they are any good...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324574398084
Cheep at the price if they are any good...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324574398084
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Weekend Wagon - 51k 1982 Mk2 Scirocco 1.6 GL Auto - Diamond Silver
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
Opinions on this aftermarket version of the 2E2 varied on this earlier thread:RussGLAuto wrote: ↑Sun Jun 13, 2021 12:19 pm Now this is interesting, it seems the Chinese have copied (but of course!) the 2E2 and offering them for sale on eBay:
Cheep at the price if they are any good...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324574398084
https://forum.sciroccoregister.co.uk/vi ... se#p152246
However, the one person who said they'd tried it seemed reasonably happy, although it seems it needed some mods to work properly:
https://forum.sciroccoregister.co.uk/vi ... 47#p153147
1992 VW Scirocco GT II 1.8 90PS Brilliant Black 30k
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
I can add my own opinion here to Chinese made copies. The reviews are mixed in most instances but biased towards badly made parts or needing some adjusting. I am a Musician too and the Chinese produce copies of various guitars which when modified can be as good as originals, however please note "when modified". I would be wary of a cheaper Chinese version as you must not expect it to bolt in and be as good as the originally built part.
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Re: PIERBURG Rebuild - pre build advice
oh dear ... bad news... I fitted the new weber and set it up.. Car still idled high and still had ovverun when I turned engine off... This is not good.
The Pierburg i took off as well as the three point unit was all good then
So what other possibility for engine overrun bar the rubber flange between carb and manifold??
O rings in manifold???
This is getting confusing
The Pierburg i took off as well as the three point unit was all good then
So what other possibility for engine overrun bar the rubber flange between carb and manifold??
O rings in manifold???
This is getting confusing