Cold Start Issues

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stys0n84
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Cold Start Issues

Post by stys0n84 »

I have a MK2 Scala Injection my issue is that it won't start from cold. It will start if I floor the throttle when starting for secs then it's fine. Warm start is fine.

Obviously I don't want to keep doing this as it must be putting unecessary wear on the engine. Any thoughts?

The previous owner says the injectors are fine and the fuel pump is okay. The battery is fine so is starter.


Start off slow and methodical, that doesn't work so shout curse and hit it till it works.


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mark1gls
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by mark1gls »

Does it run lumpy for a few seconds when started?
When the car is running right you should not need to touch the accelerator at all to start it.


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marcus
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by marcus »

I found mine (albeit carb) was getting increasingly hard to start from cold over a period of months - one day it wouldn't start at all and it turned out the ignition module had died.

After replacing it, the difference was astonishing, so I'd check you're getting a good spark.

Also, if you do go down the route of changing the module (or even just testing it), make sure the connectors at the module and dizzy ends are making good contact, mine weren't.


1985 GTL 1.8

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stys0n84
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by stys0n84 »

Ok Marcus I'll check the connectors and spark cheers for that.

Mark1gls it runs fine just drops to idle after nailing the throttle for a few seconds.


Start off slow and methodical, that doesn't work so shout curse and hit it till it works.


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mark1gls
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by mark1gls »

At a guess its not getting any extra fuel when starting, check the 5th injector is working when turning over, take the injector out (be careful of the little paper gasket) put the injector in a jar and turn the engine over see if any fuel comes out? If not could be the thermo time switch (on the front of the head on the main water hose flange going to the top of the rad) as this controls the 5th injector.
There is a guide in the Haynes how to test the switch


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stys0n84
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by stys0n84 »

Well I checked the ignition coil to the dizzy and they are new and fine I took the plugs out and cleaned them one and two were I'm solid and three n four were loose in comparison all 4 had oil at the bottom side of the nut I cleaned them all up. They were all quite black and four had white ash.

So I connected em all up fired her up without nailing the throttle and nothing tried with throttle and the air box jumped about but the engine wouldn't catch.

Got the jump leads onto it and after 10-15 mins it fired up but it's running like excrement.

Please tell me I've just put the plugs in the wrong holes and that I haven't killed it :?


Start off slow and methodical, that doesn't work so shout curse and hit it till it works.


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mark1gls
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by mark1gls »

If all you have done is take the plugs out you have either squashed the plug gap by cleaning it, take them out and get a feeler guage and measure the gap (can't remeber the gap needed) or you have put the HT leads on wrong. 1,3,4,2 is the order they should fire in, 1 being at the cam belt end and on the dissy 1 is roughly at about 12 o'clock.

How old are the spark plugs, HT leads, dissy cap and rotor arm?


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marcus
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by marcus »

First off, if you disconnect the centre lead from the dizzy and hold it close (5mm) to the block and crank it, do you get a spark? It should be bright white and quite strong, not feeble and orange.

Getting the firing order wrong won't hurt per se.

Firing order is 1 3 4 2

No 1 plug is nearest the cambelt cover.

With the dizzy cap off, turn the engine until the business end of the rotor arm is pointing at the little notch on the lip of the distributor housing, it's quite small and hard to see but will be around 12 to 1 o'clock. The connection on the cap that corresponds to that position is No 1, so that lead should connect to No 1 plug, and it's the longest lead.

Going around the clock (clockwise!), the next lead connects to No 3 and will be shorter.

Next is 4 and will the shortest lead, finally 2 will be longer than 1 but shorter than 3.

Does that make sense.


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mark1gls
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by mark1gls »

If you do what marcus says about taking the centre HT lead off make sure you hold it with insulated pliers and if possible gloves or it will be like a big tazer if you get a shock from the HT leads :focus:


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marcus
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by marcus »

Sensible advice, I didn't do that and had no problems but if there are any cracks at all in the insulation or the surface is at all moist you could get a nasty shock.


1985 GTL 1.8

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stys0n84
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by stys0n84 »

Hi lads thanks very much for the help. I had another look at the car just before it got dark and I had put the leads on wrong luckily. I just couldn't see it at the time. So the lady is up and running again but I still have to look at the cold start issue but that will be another day when I've had my brave pills.


Start off slow and methodical, that doesn't work so shout curse and hit it till it works.


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stys0n84
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by stys0n84 »

Can anyone tell me what bolt holds on the cold start valve a 5mm Allen key just spins it and a spline bit doesn't cut it.


Start off slow and methodical, that doesn't work so shout curse and hit it till it works.


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mark1gls
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by mark1gls »

I think I used an allen key for mine but will check for you which size, may be yours have been rounded off...


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ianaudia4
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by ianaudia4 »

You can pull the electrical connector off the cold start injector and see if the problem is still there, this takes a second to do!


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stys0n84
Posts: 85
Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2014 6:05 pm
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Re: Cold Start Issues

Post by stys0n84 »

I did that and it was same result. Misfire and die but in a slightly different way.


Start off slow and methodical, that doesn't work so shout curse and hit it till it works.


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