Scirocco Register

hi need some help please car is a scirocco 1.8 8v gt 1988 when driving to the mot station the oil pressure light and buzzer came on when revs go above 2000rpm then when i go into fifth it goes out happens everytime the reve build up however the car runs lovely the mot tester said it was in very good condition and it passed the emmissions test no probs just needs couple of tyres and rear brakes sorting for a new 12month ticket anyway i recently changed the sender can these give probs not had car long so unsure if the problem has always been there also i have not changed the oil yet its quite clean but could have been there for ages as he car has been stood what grade oil should i use hoping its not a major problem as i want the car as my daily driver got loads of little things to sort on the car just want to put my mind at rest on this one also any advise on removing rear drums and changing the rear cylinders thanks

Get your oil and oil filter from the dealers. 5L of Synta Silver should cost about £17 and an oil filter about £3, not forgetting a new sump washer. It is worth asking for a discount, last time I paid £15 for the oil!!!

The buzzer and light coming on could mean the oil pump is goosed but before going down that route check the condition of the wiring, seen it in the past where it needed a section replacing and stopped the buzzer and light coming on.

what oil filter is on it? is it el cheapio or is it a decent brand? why did you change the sender?

oil should be 10/40 semi synth to vw spec 500...can't remember, but it's in the handbook. if you don't know when the oil was last changed, change it anyway.

rear drums should come off quite easy. car on stands, in gear, front end chocked (sucking eggs and all) wheel off, centre dust cover off, prise centre cap off, remove splitpin, undo nut, drum *should* them pull off. if it's tight, rotate it by hand whilst pulling and tapping it with landrover special tool #1. if there is a lip they can be a bit stubborn, but it will come off. if there is brake fluid on any of the shoes, change the whole set. if they are ok, slightly rough the surface of them, which will almost certainly have started to go shiny. remove this shine for improved braking. wash any dust off with some brake cleaner. don't blow or brush it off dry, as these cars are old enough that they may have had (or still have) asbestos brake linings. to undo the brake pipe, you want a goot snug fitting spanner. if you use an open ended spanner, the changes are you will round off the nut. best thing to use is a 6 sided split ring spanner clicky which is designed for this very job. machine mart do a nice set for about £15 if you've got one near you, or halfords do them in their professional range (lifetime guarantee too :) )
the allen headed bolts that hold the cylinder onto the backplate will almost certainly be knackered, but always worth a try at undoing them before reaching for power tools. get something to scrape all the crud out of the head before you start, and tap your allen key with a small hitting stick to make sure it's fully in there. then swear as they round off easy enough to drill out working from the outside though, as the holes go all the way thru the wheel cylinder. start will a 3 or 4mm drill and try and go as straight as you can. that will usually do it, but if not (or if you were not quite straight) slowly work up in size until the head falls off.
once you got the new cylinder on, push the little wedge adjuster thingy (will make sense when you look at it) up, which backs off the brakes and makes getting the drum back on easier. bleed the brakes (dot4 fluid required) and then stand on the pedal a few times and operate the handbrake a few times to settle the shoes into the right place. now the slightly tricky bit - rotate the drum so you can see the bottom of that little wedge thingy through one of the wheel bolt holes. get someone to stand on the brakes for you, while you hook the hole in the bottom of that wedge with a pokey thing and pull it downwards. this will force the shoes outwards, giving you less pedal travel, improved pedal feel and a better handbrake. once you've done both sides, check that the handbrake is starting to apply on by the 2nd click (rotate wheel by hand, you'll feel it) and is fully on between 3 and 6 clicks. if it's fully on with only 1 click, or you can't actually lift it enough to get any clicks, just slacken the cable slightly
if you haven't already, buy a haynes book of lies. the old ones are better than the new ones with the spanner rating, and ebay (or the for sale board here) should turn you one up for a few quid.

anything you get stuck on, just shout on here

I had the same problem with my oil buzzer coming on, I believe they only work when the revs are above 2000rpm, mine would happen a couple of times a month, I solved the problem by replacing the oil pump in the sump.
I would change the oil and filter first then see what happens, if its still buzzing the a new oil pump is properly needed. Always worth replacing the cheaper options first.

When doing your rear brakes put a little copper grease on the bolts that hold the wheel cylinder on as I makes it easier to remove them when you need to next replace the wheel cylinders as they should not be rusted on.
Also a little copper grease is needed where to shoes touch the back plate or they will squick when you press the peddle or use the hand brake.

To check the system is working correctly, follow the sequence in the FAQ - http://sciroccoregisterforum.co.uk/faq/ ... ce-buzzer/
Incorrect working could mean faulty senders, connections/breaks in wiring. Or, as in my extreme case a few years back, the circuit board could burn out - but your symptoms rule this one out.

And a plea please, no offence intended, but punctuation makes a post easier to read. Thank you.

sorry not the best at punctuation(please explain) though i do always try to check my spelling i changed the oil pressure sender because the old one was leaking oil many thanks for the detailed reply into removing the drums ive got 14 days to fix the rear brakes so hopefully plenty of time and the information will certainly help thanks guys

Has the light and buzzer only started since you changed the sensor? Could be the wrong one fitted?

the sender i fitted had a blue top think the old one was grey , it was a cheapie off fleabay so could be a suspect
i spent a few hours today working on the brakes ,pretty straight forward to remove the drums following your advice , i do have a brake pipe spanner so it was easy to free off the brake pipes(left the cylinders on until i buy new ones) the allen bolts came off quite easy , thankfully . do i need to remove the shoes to fit a new cylinder hopefully on target for a re test middle of next week i will also get a haynes manual(actually met mr haynes at his museum in sparkford 10 years ago he use to take your ticket when you went in great place loads of great cars but i think he may have passed away a few years ago)

no, you should manage to get the cylinder swapped just by pulling the shoes apart with on pair of hands, and easing the cylinder out with your other pair. just be careful putting the new one in that you don't force a piston out of it. make sure there's no brake fluid on the shoes too. if there is they'll need chainging

jond wrote:the sender i fitted had a blue top think the old one was grey

that would suggest it's probably the wrong one ;)

are there different oil pressure switches , i bought mine of the bay that said it was for my car 1988 1.8 8v gt are different colour switches set to different pressures i might start a project thread as posting piccys always helps when ive got a problem with the car

ebay: home of the reliable and trustworthy merchant

jond wrote:are there different oil pressure switches , i bought mine of the bay that said it was for my car 1988 1.8 8v gt are different colour switches set to different pressures i might start a project thread as posting piccys always helps when ive got a problem with the car

Worth going to your local dealer and buying from there, probably won't be that much more expensive but at least it will work!

Start with a PayPal dispute, so at least you get your money back. Get one from any decent factors and they will check its the right one for you

it was the wrong sensor after all fitted the correct white one and all is well(well it was until the car cut out ,but thats another story ha ha)