Scirocco Register

The haynes suggest negative camber set up wouldn't this make the car feel unstable in corners

whats the best camber, caster and toe set up for a fast road car. The car has been lowered 50-60mm and has got adjustable track rods on both sides. any ideas??

thanks jon

The problem with setting up any front end is trying to make sure the settings remain as constant as possible under suspension movement.
Lowering a car, whilst generally beneficient can adversly affect handling under extreme suspension movement due to the alteration of the static angle of the control arm (wishbone) which is unavoidable in lowering (unless you move the pivot!!)
All modern cars have negative camber. This generally increases with suspension movement (upwards), this helps keep the tyre flat on the ground.
The only way you can alter caster is to alter the top mounts of your McPherson struts. You can buy adjustable ones but these move camber, caster and king pin inclination at the same time and really if you want to adjust the caster and king pin inclination you are into very serious racing!
Cars are generally set to toe-in, this makes it easier to steer without thinking, so you can safely pick your nose, etc. whilst driving. If you set up with some toe-out, the car will turn into corners much better, but will tend to wander more in a straight line so needs more concentration.
If you really want to get into the black art of suspension set up (and give yourself a headache), buy The sports and kit car Suspension and Brakes High Performance Manual, published by Veloce Books (http://www.velocebooks.com)

I use a home made tracking gauge, and set up for 1 - 1.5mm of tow out (always neutral or tow out on a front wheel drive, and neutral or tow in on a rear wheel drive) measuring front and back of the wheel rim.

The angle for (negative) camber is given in the Haynes, and I have always set up to something close, using a magnetic bubble gauge (available from Frost restoration). It's a tricky procedure though, as you need to stick the gauge to the brake disc, with the car at ride height, and the centre line of the hub in the same position as it would be with the wheel fitted. Easy if you've got big, spokey wheels that you can get the gauge in through the wheel... Awkward if you need to do it with the wheel off - needs 2 jacks - 1 for the outermost extremity of the hub, the other for the body of the car.