Scirocco Register

There wont be one on the dizzy unless it has an early 1300 engined dizzy. You can tap off from the inlet manifold boot (straight off manifold). Have a feel underneath for two rigid plastic pipes, failing that pick up off of the ecu vacume hose which is connected to the servo pipe..

monzajake wrote:There wont be one on the dizzy unless it has an early 1300 engined dizzy. You can tap off from the inlet manifold boot (straight off manifold). Have a feel underneath for two rigid plastic pipes, failing that pick up off of the ecu vacume hose which is connected to the servo pipe..

Cheers jake. Thats waht im thinking. Im gonna start pulling the loom then ill do the mfa pipe.

Jason

Evening all my rocco lovin friends!!!

Well I have finally got round to removing the old loom and putting in the new one. Only problem is that there a few widres on the car and loom side that arent wont meet up! Aaarrgghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Ahhh a nice clean bay!



Here is all the old wiring! Look at the mess!



The two wires were plugged into the old loom/fusebox somewhere. Both of these are plugged into the isv. If anyone knows where the connect to in the loom/fusebox then please please let me know. I am a bit fecked otherwise.



No idea what has been done here. I will be putting the fusebox from the 8v in as this one is a bit of a mess.



A bit of water has come in here me thinks. Most likely the leaky heater matrix.



....this is eaxctly why i have decided to do al of this. Jesus christ! It seems to be on the lighting circuit.





Anyone know where this wire goes to????????????????? I is part of the 8v loom. One wire goes into the blue plug and the othere into another. I cant recall. It looks like it may carry a big larger load as the wre is thicker than the average ones. This one is worrying me quite abit.

The 8v fusebox is currently in then airing cuppoard with the switches and stalks. The parts have been in the car with no door on for many a month so thought a good drying out would be best. Tomm morning I will be putting the fusebox and loom in. I know its not going to run properly with the isv not connected.

Wish me luck with the turn of the key. If anyone knows where the above wires go then please please let me know.

I got the same block unattached in the GTX i put together a month ago. Searched high n low but no other connecter there to fit. On the plus side every thing works, so could be for an extra the english spec never got.

Where do the wires for the isv controll uniot go to dude ?

monzajake wrote:I got the same block unattached in the GTX i put together a month ago. Searched high n low but no other connecter there to fit. On the plus side every thing works, so could be for an extra the english spec never got.

Where do the wires for the isv controll uniot go to dude ?

Phew!! You've made me feel alot better jake lol. That't the main one i was worrying about.

The isv seems to have its own separate mini lomm that goes into the firewall....bar these two wires. To be fair these two wiress may also be unatattched but I dont think ill be that lucky. They could attach to switched power.....? Worst comes to worst my girlfriedns dad is also an electronics expert too! lol good stuff! Ive got a mk2 golf haynes lying around which should include the isv in the wiring section.

Im off for a shower and gonna plumb the last bits in. Will she start???? Stay tuned!

Turned the key and it started first time no problems....so thats the isv wires done.

The indicators work but nothin else does!!! If i turtn the lights on they work, but the clock display goes funny and the full beams then operates the wiper motor!!!! Aaaarrrgghhh!!!

No rear heatter, mfa controls, rev counter, coolant temp, wiper, full beam. I know its a stupid question that prob cant be fixed without lookin yourselves but any ideas?

Jason

Ive realised that the one of the clocks connector wasnt plugged in so i have that fully working now. However the battt light is on all the time!!!!! When I turn the lights on the whole dash cuts out. When i turn them off it comes back on with the coolant light flashing for a few seconds as it woudl when you turn the key to the first click.

Could it be that the loom isnt getting a live feed? The switched power wire from the ignition switch has been cut and repaired from the old car. I chopped this again and the indicators wouldnt work. Reattached and they do. Rules that out. I have checked both large red wires to the right of the fusebox. Even tried swapping them around not that i think that makes a difference.

Im thinking that a main part of the loom isnt getting the switched power. May also explain why the clocks cut out when the lights are turned on. Diverting power from somewhere?

I am goign to try the old fusebox on the off chance that the 8v one was water damaged. Not getting my hopes up here!

Any help would be much apppreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please people!

Ahh had the same prob sir.. Check the earth connection on the cyclinder head brown wire is what your looking for, also make sure its connected to the earthing block by the fuse box. Failing that it could be some thing with the speedo pod connection.

...when you say "same problem" does that include pretty much most of the electrics not worrking or just the dash problem?

I have multi-metered the earth spade block next to the f/box and thats fine. I have not checked the head earth. The original loom had two relays bodgd in for some of the electrics. Maybe they just "got around" the problem this way.

So if the head earth is too weak (or not even there) this could be my problem you think? Also very strange i just tried startign the car again and its now flat?! This could be because ive just been starting it and leaving the ignition on. I havent driven the car since i bought it. I may just put this down as a coincidence ...hhmmmmm

Arrrggghhhh. Im getting very tempted to beat the sh1t out of this car. Or strip the hell out of it and turn it into a track car lol. Dont need any electrics for that lol.

Is there anyone out there who is good with electrics?? If so any idea on how much you would want including transport costs to get down to Bournemtouth area?

I can fix the rest of the car up but im now on a bit of a downer lol. Why the hell did I take out the old loom? lol

Jason

jbo wrote:...when you say "same problem" does that include pretty much most of the electrics not worrking or just the dash problem?
So if the head earth is too weak (or not even there) this could be my problem you think?

If the earth on the side of the cyclinder head (brown) is not connected or very fraid it will couse the following from what i can remember

Rev counter dies when engine running.
Clock / mfa go out with ignition on or when headlights turned on.
Dash lights go out when lights on.
High beam warning light works in the revearse way, ie dip lights, high beam warning light on.
Oil, temp and battery light on or flicker.
So mainly the dash issuse's.

Hi Jake checked the wire and it seemed fine. I even ran a thick wire from the head to the ground point at the fuse box as a temp fix. No luck.

Here are the problems I have -

- dash dies when lights swithched on except for the full beam light. Weirdly when I adjust the dash brightness using the switch the gets lighter/darker and the actual dash bulbs dont even light up. When the lights are on and the dash is dead if I pull the main beam stalk the wiper moves!!!

The indicators work fine and so do the lights except for the aboive problem. Nothing else works at all.

Im so annoyed and at a loss that a track car is becoming more and more appealing.

hmm very odd, a dash loom change is a walk in the park, even from 8v to 16 or vise versa, as the looms are pretty much
the same. Thats what im pee'd about here.
Shot in the dark but have you got another light switch ? Could be worth swopping as i think there is a earth that runs though there.
Also double check the speedo wiring connections, i had a black wire come lose from the block and a few probs started.
When you say nothong else works do you mean horn, heater blower ? or dash related, hazards wipers etc

Your p'd? ha lol.

I have no idea what the problem is?! Yes i tried another switch with no luck im afraid. I have double checked the connections and everything looks fine. I even looked at the number of wires on the old loom compared to the new one. All looks fine still!

The head wire did look fine. Any other ideas? I cant understand it. I may try wiring the block striaght into the earth connectors next to the fusebox. The old loom is in too many pieces for a side side by comparaison lol.

Again the old loom had two manually wired in relyays. Maybe the bell and coleville knocked something out and fixed the problem with relays. If i cant find anything wrong maybe this is the problem! Both the main feed and grounds appear fine in the fuse box. Anythign else do you think?

Carrying on the downer mood im seriously thinking of getting rid of this car in some way or another.

I've been getting an idea on how much it costs to hire an auto electrician and its an insane amount for tracing the problems.

This is so frustrating! There has to be one wire somewhere that isnt connected or shorted out. Damn you bella and colvill!!!! They must of knocked something out durign the conversion and relayed it back in!

Anyone know what I could get for this car in the current state?

Jason