OEM Coil Springs

[RussGLAuto]

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Thanks for this, never heard of a lower strut brace before, good idea. However, as you know, I want to keep Gladys as true to the original spec as safely possible. So I'll pass on this. No offence.

The only upgrade I have done is the rubber brake lines to a HEL braided set, but the improvement in performance is akin to a modern car and with them specked in black you really can't tell.

https://auto.helperformance.com/volkswa ... rake-lines

Well worth it.

Oh, and the Powerflex heritage bushings...

That's it. Honest!

[RussGLAuto]

So gents,

Went for a test drive this afternoon... OMG!

I have a test route that takes me over a bridge on the A16 which has a good 6' - 12' sculptured ramp. i normally take it at 40 mph in Gladys and she wallows like a jelly in all fairness. This afternoon with the new rear shocks and springs, I took it at 50 mph, well...

A very odd feeling. The fronts were still jelly like wobbling all over the place, but the rears felt very tight and "Pert"... Good word!

The differance between the front and rear was VERY noticeable and very odd feeling.

Can't wait to sort the fronts out.

Cheers chaps.
Russ

[mark1gls]

As always it’s your car and up to you what you want to do with it so no offence taken

Braided brake hose and regulator brake fluid changes for me as well and I find the standard set works very well if you set up the rear brake drums properly.

[mark1gls]

Good to hear you can tell the difference.

It’s well worth changing the suspension as it does wear out after time, I’m on my 4th set of springs and shocks after running standard height, then lowered on a Boge set then back to standard height after a spring broke on the Boge set and last year on to the Eibach springs and Blisten shocks.
This is on my daily drive, Mk1 Golf cabriolet (same running gear Mk2 Scirocco) with 308,000 miles and I’ve been driving it for 26 years…

[RussGLAuto]

Blimey Charlie, 308k...

I'm but a novice at 51k! A testament to the A1 platform...

[RussGLAuto]

Evening gents.

So, I was doing a bit of reading this afternoon of me Haynes manual regarding the removal of the front suspenders and wishbones... as one does. I was moderately concerned when it described two methods of wishbone removal, one for a manual and one for an auto gearbox.

Hmmm.

The bible says the auto box version required the engine unbolting and hoisting out of the way. WHAT?!

Sure enough, on removal of the passenger side round bit the auto box is only about an inch from the forward wishbone bolt. The manual then goes on to refer one to the engine removal section...

Gents, I know my limits. This is one of them. Especially since the front wishbone bushing looks particularly crusty. There maybe some amoung you that wouldn't think twice about such a procedure. I'm not one of them.

So, amended plan, I'll just replace the shocks and springs. Next annual service, my local VW garage (Crowsons VW of Spalding) can deal with the passenger side wishbone... The drivers side wishbone is well clear of obstructions so will have a crack at that myself. Yes, It'll cost me, but I just don't have the kit or know how to lift the engine clear of the wishbone.

On the plus side it will be an opportunity to renew the engine mounts.

Meh.

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[RussGLAuto]

Evening gents,

Got the passenger side off with the help of a breaker bar, those shock bolts are on tight. Took photos of the adjustable bolt and measured the jacked camber angle with that little gizmo. Was running 0.5 + camber both sides when on the ground.

I was surprised to see the front springs with three green paint marks on, I was expecting two yellow same as the rear:

Screenshot 2021-11-18 at 18.51.51.png

Also, mildly concerned the new springs are slightly shorter than the originals, I have visions on me riding around with a hot rod stance

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Refurbished and reusing the top mounts as before. While the paint was drying, took some Fairy Liquid to the wheel arch. Hands were nice and soft after!

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I was also idly thinking about that wishbone bolt. It looks close, but if I remove the auto box sump there might be enough room to get it out, it will move about ½ to 3/4 inch with some gentle persuasion from my jack.

What do you think?

[RussGLAuto]

Good morning Gents,

Last update for this little job. Finally got both front shocks and springs replaced.

I haven't changed the wishbones, unfortunately I've run out of time, back to work at sea Monday for three months away. In any case, thanks to those with helpful input, especially GT_II, WreckTangle and Mark1gls. Your comments and guidance always appreciated. I know this job for most must be as simple as, but for me, it's the first time I've ever attempted replacing major car components outside of a battery or other small bits.

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So what have I learned? Best bit - that cheap magnetic camber gauge was excellent! Managed to get the bubble in the same place when refitting the new units. On the test drive, hands off the wheel she stayed straight and true to the extent in which I don't think I need an expensive alignment. The ride now feels as good as a new car, very happy!

Gladys is one step closer to being as good as new. What's left? Those wishbones, rear axel bushings, the pierburg coolant hoses to replace still and to investigate the missing exhaust to manifold stud, a final paint correction and detail by White Details.

Have a great Christmas one and all!

Cheers

Russ

[GT_II]

Safe travels Russ. I'm learning from you and others on this job - turning theory into practice is my next challenge.

[mark1gls]

Good to hear its all back together and driving nicely.


Always happy to help when I can and happy Christmas to you.