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Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2016 3:49 am
by james butler
i finally managed to get a belt that im hoping will fit (6PK 1033) from a peugeot.
this should allow me to keep the alternator up high and not have to bring it lower to fit the shorter "correct" belt.
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 8:37 pm
by james butler
success the pug belt fits the abf setup a treat so i can keep the alternator in its origenal position.
got all the other service items too and set about fitting the rotor arm and dizzy cap.
weirdly the rotor was glued on? so resorted to breaking it up with molegrips to get it off and fitted the new one.
the old dizzy cap was a right state with most of the electorde burnt away and severley pitted.

Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 8:45 pm
by james butler
also bled the brakes yesterday which showed up a couple of leaks.
2 were the master cylinder pipe ferrules which i forgot to tighten up somehow, and the other was the front right brake flexi which needed knipping up to stop a leak.
also fitted the handbrake cables which went straight on no issues, (so to clarify for anyone else wanting to do the mk3 rear disk brake conversion the standard scirocco 16v handbrake cables fit straight on).
so hopefully once the fuel pump is bolted on and wired in the car can be put back on its wheels for engine fitting.
one quick question, is it easier to fit a 16v engine (with gearbox attached) through the top of the engine bay? or is it better to fit it from underneath?
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:02 pm
by bengould
I've had my 20v in and out several times. I have always gone through the top with an engine crane. Never tried from the bottom, but there isn't much in the way whichever way you go.
Ben.
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 12:38 am
by james butler
cheers ben
thats a weight off my mind as ive been a bit worried about doing it either way.
lifting the car high enough to go over the engine does not sound a safe idea and doing it from above sounds likely to scratch the new paint.
i suppose patience is the key and preparation.
is it worth taking the bonnet off to give more clearance?
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 9:25 am
by the edmundator
Ant and I removed a standard 1.8 engine from a mk2 from below - it doesn't need to go all that high if you've got something fairly flat to put the engine on.
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 10:13 am
by bengould
You don't need to take the bonnet off. Just don't use too long a chain/rope with the hoist. If you can keep the engine as close to the arm as possible you limit the height you have to get the arm before the engine is clear of the car.
There is plenty of room in the bay to get the engine in and stay clear of the paintwork. The only awkward bit is getting the gearbox past the brake servo. But if you drop it in at an angle it makes it much easier.
Ben.
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 5:07 pm
by 88GTX
Same here, albeit with a standard DX engine. I took mine out and dropped it back in from the the top. Bonnet was left on, just propped up higher with a piece of wood.
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 10:27 pm
by ant
When I put the 1.8t in mine I took the bonnet off to make it a little easier which I was glad of at the time, i tilted the engine with gearbox down and still ended up bashing all my new paint work, even with 3 people putting it in. Wish I had put engine in 1st then attached gearbox from underneath.
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 10:46 pm
by Tim_R
I generally lift the car up, slide the engine under and lower the front down again, then lift the engine up into place.
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 11:18 pm
by mark1gls
I removed my bonnet and put my engine in from above then side the gearbox in from below, attached the drivers side engine mount, angled the engine down and attached the gearbox to the engine but I had my drive shafts in place so had to line up/fix them to the gearbox as well. There is plenty of room to stand over the engine and slide the gearbox on with out the other stuff attached to the engine.
This was on a DX engine and I did it this way as I was on my own and I damaged the paint getting the engine and gearbox out in one go from above during removal.
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 12:58 am
by james butler
cool, cheers for the info peeps.
i think i will separate the gearbox from the engine then and put them in separately.
does sounds like a much easier way of doing it.
really looking forward to it now!!!!
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 10:06 pm
by mark1gls
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 10:21 am
by bengould
To get around the driveshaft issue you can just unbolt the front wishbone bolt and pull the wishbone out of the front mount. This gives you plenty of room to get the CV joint into the gearbox cup.
Ben.
Re: crusty rusty rocket
Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 4:27 am
by james butler
bengould wrote:To get around the driveshaft issue you can just unbolt the front wishbone bolt and pull the wishbone out of the front mount. This gives you plenty of room to get the CV joint into the gearbox cup.
Ben.
ah thats a nifty trick, the engine should be in by thursday so will be taking the gearbox back off and preping the motor with rags to protect the engine bay.
gotta find the engine mount bolts as they seem to have gone walkies
