Annual test... GRANTED!

[wasted]

Right then - got the bearings today, and I've replaced the driver's side this evening. Thing is, there's still play in it. I've followed the standard Haynes 'method' of tightening things up - i.e. tightening the nut over the washer until the washer can just be moved - and repeated this, but still no joy. I also pre-torqued everything before loosening back up to ensure everything was seated correctly.

Any ideas? Should I just tighten it down a little more than suggested?

[Funky Diver]

There should be a little "play" else it'll grind itself down to a pulp before you know it.

Did the stub axle seem OK when you cleaned it up?

[wasted]

Yeah, it looked pretty decent. Cleaned all the crappy old grease off it, and it was shiny - no scoring that I could see.

There's no side-to-side movement, but when the wheel's gripped and pushed/pulled in and out, there's a perceptible rocking motion.Couldn't describe how much.

[vr_powered]

There should be a small amount of movement when they are set correctly, hard to describe how much as i do it by feel but if you have done it as per haynes it should be fine, if on the restest the tester takes issue with the bearings just remind him they are taper bearings so meant to have some give in

[wasted]

Sounds good to me. I'll get the other done tomorrow! Thanks :)

[Nate]

normal method is to tighten it up whilst turning the wheel until it starts to get stiff to turn, then back it off until it frees up. whilst there should be some slight play in it, it should only be very very slight.

[wasted]

It's pretty tiny. With the wheel on, I'd estimate that the outer edge moves in and out about 1mm or so. I'll have another check of it this evening to be sure.

[wasted]

Did the nearside bearing last night, and using the same tightening method it has roughly the same play as the offside. When the wheel is rocked at 3/9o'clock and 12/6o'clock it moves by probably about a mm at the outside edge of the wheel. Feels like a 'clunk' almost, but very very slight.

Gave the garage a call this morning to discuss how much play is acceptable - he said it'd probably be fine, but to be sure, he suggested that I nip it up a little more just to eliminate the play. Bit more work to do this evening!

[MikeH]

Normal Castrol LM grease should be fine.

When I first fit new bearings, I tighten them a bit further than finger tight, to make sure the bearings are seated properly, then back off and re-tighten to the correct torque (hand tight with no ratchet bar on the socket seems about right, normally). I think a lot of folks have problems with new bearings going slack because they didn't quite seat properly, and worked loose.

Before you change bearings, have a look at the wear in your drums. If they need changing, now is the time to do it, and it'll save you knocking the race out of the old drum.

EDIT: Wrote this reply before I spotted 'Page 2' of this thread

[wasted]

Thanks for the advice either way! I will be changing the drums later this year - your point about knocking the races out was valid (it's a pain in the arse), but I did manage it. Took about an hour each side or thereabouts. The drums are evidently ok for the MOT either way, but they are rusting and the shoes are getting a little low, so that's a job for the summer. I'm guessing new bearings will be required then too?

Ended up using GSF's finest LM2 multipurpose grease - should do the job.

[Nate]

once you've done a few hundred miles, check them again for play and adjust them again if needed

[wasted]

I will do - thanks. In for re-test in an hour!

[wasted]

Went back in for the re-test this morning and everything's gravy. Green slip for another 12 months of motoring! Thanks for your help, guys :)

[steve]

Both bearings and all the races live in the drum, so it's easy enough to change. Decent hammer and a big socket for a drift normally works, but I tend to just nip them down to a friendly garage who press them out and put the new inner bearings in for £10-15.

[marcus]

My 'friendly' local garage wanted to charge me £25 though settled for £20 and weren't very bloody friendly either.

The nearby engineering workshop only wanted £15 and I suspect would have done a better job (ie used a press rather than a hammer and a socket) but couldn't fit it in for a few days and I was in a hurry...