Changing CV boot

[marcus]

In the end I had to remove the disc and caliper to get enough access and leverage.

So now my problem is - how do I remove the CV joint from the shaft?

Haynes isn't very clear, can't see a visible circlip (though I suppose it could be buried in all the grease...) so am assuming it's the later type but all Haynes offers is to 'use a wooden mallet to drive the joint sharply from the driveshaft', though without saying which direction (which isn't obvious to me given Haynes says to drive the early CV joint towards the shaft while holding open the circlip).

Someone on here (I think) recommended a copper hammer and on another site someone suggested using a drift and hammer.

Where am I supposed to hit? How hard? And do I not risk damaging the inner CV joint or driveshaft, given it's dangling otherwise unsupported from the gearbox drive flange?

[Mr Funk]

Honestly, just take the whole shaft off and change it off the car. Much less hassle.
Was able to brace the shaft and tapped the cv off

[Village Idiots]

A sharp tap with a wooden mallet pushes off the CV joint, support the drive shaft with your other hand and push this towards the gearbox as you hit the joint (outwards) with the mallet. Comes apart everytime, absolutely no need to undo the gearbox end of the shaft.

[marcus]

Ta I'll try that first.

Really don't want to undo the other end, not convinced the M8 12-spline bit I have is right, someone on here said I need XZN or triple square, but I suspect what I've got is double hex (the valleys between the points look shallower and less pointy than the points in the bolthead). Had no idea there were so many different types.

Plus access is a pig given the proximity of the inner boot and all the bits I've seen online have quite fat bases meaning they'd foul on the boot.

[marcus]

Well got there in the end - that is to say, new boot is fitted and everything is back together but I haven't tried to drive it yet.

Sods law was when I let the car down, I didn't spot I'd left an axle stand underneath (previously used to support the driveshaft) and it fouled on the water pump pulley, so for a few minutes it was taking some of the weight of the car... :( I only changed the wretched thing a few weeks ago so I hope it hasn't sustained any damage.

One thing I'm not comfortable about is the fit of the boot clips supplied with the boot - it's a GKN thermoplastic one from GSF (part number 450VG0110), and though the boot ends fit the shaft and CV joint well, when installed the clips are loose, the shaft end can be rotated though not moved laterally but the joint end can not only be rotated it can be slipped off the joint without much effort.

Any suggestions? Obviously I don't want to disassemble the whole thing again so if the clips need replacing it needs to be with something that can be fully opened, not madly keen on cable ties.

[marcus]

Aha!

Did a bit more research and realise I missed a step...

I'd been wondering what that hollow bump on the outer part of the clip was for and now I read I'm supposed to use pincers to squeeze it together to tighten the clip, is that right?

I've also read the specialist tools available for this job have a rod which bears on the top surface of the ear, presumably to stop it bowing outwards, is this crucial?

[marcus]

Wish I had one of these.

[Sam]

I'm just changing the cv joint on my car and found this old post useful,
However I'm having issues fitting the new one. The joint goes on the shaft okay without the circlip but can't get it on with the the clip. Can't see any other way of getting the circlip on after either.
It's the kit from gsf.
Any one else had issues or know how to get it on?
Cheers

[bengould]

Hi,
Put the shaft in a vice and "persuade" the joint on with a rubber/wooden mallet.

Ben

[mark1gls]

You might not need to use the circlip, there is two types of fixings so you might have some bits left over in the box.
When you removed the cv joint did you just hit it off?
Make sure you are using the right bits in the right order, a Haynes manual will help.

[marcus]

The kit comes with both a circlip and what I would call a c-clip ie it looks like the letter c but doesn't have 'eyes' for circlip pliers and is round in cross-section rather than flat.

The circlip goes at the back of the joint, the c-clip fits at the wheel end of the shaft, there is a groove all the way around, cut into the splines, maybe 5mm from the end of the shaft.

In the kit I got from GSF there were three of these c-clips, you only need one.

You tap it onto the shaft (gently), you'll need to support the shaft, I used an axle stand, and tap it on. Expect to have a few goes and maybe the clip will bounce off never to be found, hence the three in the kit.

Then you whack the joint assembly over it onto the shaft. It takes a fair whack, not made easier by the joint articulating all over the place. Use a wooden or rubber mallet (I used a rubber one, from the 99p store, you don't want to use a 'good' one), start gently, you'll find the right level of whack.

[Sam]

Cheers,
It was annoying me as it should only have taken half hour if it wasn't for the clip.
It was the c clip, not a normal circlip. I only got one with the kit, must have been dodgy as I got another and it went together fine.