MOT failure - advice please

[Joe87]

Good day sirs.

Unfortunatley my GTX failed its MOT today, for the first time since I've owned it (over three years...) - a sad day indeed.

However, as far as I can tell it's not really anything too serious. The bloke in the test centre said it would be about 40 quid worth of bits, so I can't really complain.

I'm prepared to fix anything myself that isn't too difficult, my only problem is that I don't really know exactly what all of the points mean on the failure certificate. If someone can point me in the right direction as to what I actually need to replace and which parts I need to buy, I should be able to do the rest with the help of Mr Haynes.

Offside front (outer) Front constant velocity joint gaiter damaged to the extent that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt etc - this is just a little rubber thingy (cv boot?) that keeps all the crud out of the cv joint, right? Not sure of the part number on GSF. Easy enough to replace though?

Nearside front upper Macpherson strut has excessive movement at the upper attachment - I'm guessing this needs some kind bush replacing? Not sure exactly which bit of the suspension it is located on though. Hopefully not to difficult.

Nearside and Offside rear Brake hose ferrule excessively corroded - I guess that just means replacing the hoses. GSF list two - 657VG065 and 657VG030.The first one says up to May 83, so I'm guessing the second is the later counterpart which I need.

Nearside Fuel pipe excessively chafed - the bloke said it was actually leaking halfway along, but I'd have thought they'd actually mention on the failure sheet if it was leaking? Either way I guess the hose needs replacing - again, can't find it on GSF.

Offside front Brake hose leaking - I assume that just needs replacing with 657VG017 from GSF.

Nearside front Brake hose excessively damaged - as above.

I assume after messing around with all brake hoses the system will need bleeding. That was an absolute b*tch when I replaced the rear brakes this time last year.

Thanks in advance, any help much appreciated. And apologies if I didn't post in the right section, I wasn't really sure where it should go.

[bengould]

Offside front (outer) Front constant velocity joint gaiter damaged to the extent that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt etc - this is just a little rubber thingy (cv boot?) that keeps all the crud out of the cv joint, right? Not sure of the part number on GSF. Easy enough to replace though?

CV Boot. Bit fiddly but not too bad. You can get a "universal fit" CV boot so you don't have to take the drive shaft out, but in my experience these are only really any good for about a year or so.

Nearside front upper Macpherson strut has excessive movement at the upper attachment - I'm guessing this needs some kind bush replacing? Not sure exactly which bit of the suspension it is located on though. Hopefully not to difficult.

Strut top mount. Very easy, Undo top nut, Drop strut and replace rubber. Re-Fit.

Nearside Fuel pipe excessively chafed - the bloke said it was actually leaking halfway along, but I'd have thought they'd actually mention on the failure sheet if it was leaking? Either way I guess the hose needs replacing - again, can't find it on GSF.

I think metal fuel line, Runs under car from tank to engine bay. Don't know if there's a specific part or if it's easier to just get any metal fuel line. If not it will just be standard rubber fuel hose in the engine bay.

[AndyJ]

Offside front (outer) Front constant velocity joint gaiter damaged to the extent that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt etc - this is just a little rubber thingy (cv boot?) that keeps all the crud out of the cv joint, right? Not sure of the part number on GSF. Easy enough to replace though?

As said above, a bitch of a job as ideally the driveshaft needs to come off as does the CV joint. Might be a good idea to replace the CV joint in it's entirety as it's the same amount of work and you won't need to worry about the joint failing due to the loss of grease and ingress of dirt.

Nearside front upper Macpherson strut has excessive movement at the upper attachment - I'm guessing this needs some kind bush replacing? Not sure exactly which bit of the suspension it is located on though. Hopefully not to difficult.

That'll be your top mount. Easy job, shame it's not the same side as your CV joint though as now you'll have to disturb both sides of the suspension. You'll need spring compressors to get the strut apart though.

Nearside and Offside rear Brake hose ferrule excessively corroded - I guess that just means replacing the hoses. GSF list two - 657VG065 and 657VG030.The first one says up to May 83, so I'm guessing the second is the later counterpart which I need.

Get braided steel hoses as these will improve your brakes. Slightly. By the way this will also be a bitch of a job and you may (will) need to drop the back axle to get in there.

Nearside Fuel pipe excessively chafed - the bloke said it was actually leaking halfway along, but I'd have thought they'd actually mention on the failure sheet if it was leaking? Either way I guess the hose needs replacing - again, can't find it on GSF.

Can't see how a rigid steel hose is chafed so I'm wondering if it's one of the flexible hoses in and around the fuel pump accumulator. A photo may be needed to show exactly where the problem is.

Offside front Brake hose leaking - I assume that just needs replacing with 657VG017 from GSF.

Braided steel hoses are again your friend here.

Nearside front Brake hose excessively damaged - as above.

Ditto re comment above.

hope this helps

[james butler]

last time i replaced cv boots on my rocko i got some boots that were stretchy, 1st tke the cv joint out of the hub, then i got a traffic cone cut the top off and put this over the end of the cv joint and using the cone stretched the cv boot over the joint, remember to turn the boot inside out first so once its on its the right way round.
this was the way i we did it in a garage i used to work at and the boot on my rocko is still good 4 years later.

[ianaudia4]

Fuel lines - I bought braided replacements for the Scala from Crazy Quiffs. The are custom made and fairly easy to fit and cost £130.
The rest as everyone else has stated.

Good luck.

[whiteshark]

CV boot joints from GSF do not last pissing time if you are a hard driver. Get them from Volkswagon direct. Far better rubber, usually come with two year guarantee and last heaps longer. Definitely go for a set of braided brake lines all round. Never fail MOT, better brake response and if you buy them new, guaranteed for life.

[Joe87]

Thanks a lot for the replies from everyone, all very helpful and much appreciated. A bit less worried now that I have more of an idea what needs doing, probably gonna be asking a few more questions over the next couple of weeks though.

Fuel lines - I bought braided replacements for the Scala from Crazy Quiffs. The are custom made and fairly easy to fit and cost £130.

Woah-ho-ho-ho-hoooo are there any cheaper alternative solutions? Wasn't expecting it to cost that much. Better hope it's the flexible hosing that's damaged then.

[Old Mac Rocco]

You could go onto Eurocar Parts pop in your Reg and see what it throws out at you re prices.
This is what I found when I put my reg in http://www.eurocarparts.com/brake-hose-and-brake-pipe
It depends on your needs and your pocket what you go for and everyone is different.
When I put these into my basket it comes up with FREE delivery.
Good luck.

[ianaudia4]

Thanks a lot for the replies from everyone, all very helpful and much appreciated. A bit less worried now that I have more of an idea what needs doing, probably gonna be asking a few more questions over the next couple of weeks though.

Fuel lines - I bought braided replacements for the Scala from Crazy Quiffs. The are custom made and fairly easy to fit and cost £130.

Woah-ho-ho-ho-hoooo are there any cheaper alternative solutions? Wasn't expecting it to cost that much. Better hope it's the flexible hosing that's damaged then.

Sure there must be but they would need making, these are an easy fix, £130 but they fit and take no time to fit.
P.S. I have no affliation to Crazy quiffs!

[Nate]

Thanks a lot for the replies from everyone, all very helpful and much appreciated. A bit less worried now that I have more of an idea what needs doing, probably gonna be asking a few more questions over the next couple of weeks though.

Fuel lines - I bought braided replacements for the Scala from Crazy Quiffs. The are custom made and fairly easy to fit and cost £130.

Woah-ho-ho-ho-hoooo are there any cheaper alternative solutions? Wasn't expecting it to cost that much. Better hope it's the flexible hosing that's damaged then.

what's the fuel line made of? steel or hard plastic, then just cut out the leaky section and replace with rubber hose. push it at least an inch over each end of the solid pipe and secure with decent fuel line clips, not just small jubilee type things

CV boot joints from GSF do not last pissing time if you are a hard driver. Get them from Volkswagon direct. Far better rubber, usually come with two year guarantee and last heaps longer. Definitely go for a set of braided brake lines all round. Never fail MOT, better brake response and if you buy them new, guaranteed for life.

sadly, the goodridge ones will. the ferrules are only mild steel with a poor quality coating on them, so they do still rust

[fonzooorooo]

if it's the rigid fuel lines, (front to back of car) they're easy enough to replace in copper (£20 sort of money) ... Just make sure you've got the correct diameter pipe. (measure yours - inj. and carb are different diameters!) It'll come in a coil from decent motor factors - you have to bend it yourself, but it can be done easily enough by hand, (no need for a miniature pipe bender unless you're being super-fussy!) ... It's effectively the same job as brake lines, but without the awkward flanging of the ends.

As above, top mounts are easy (but I'd recommend having the tracking checked afterwards) enough.

CV joints are fine. Usually. ... Make sure you've got the socket to fit the hub nut (big) and a long bar to drive it. I've had some that just won't come off the end of the driveshaft though - It can be done, but takes time - not a job to start outdoors an hour before it gets dark!. Normally, you can just "tap with a mallet", and off they pop - fingers crossed yours is like that!

[Joe87]

Once again, thanks for the comments. All much appreciated.

As I'm somewhat of a noob, it would be really helpful if someone could post the part/cat numbers of the bits I need from GSF and/or ECP (preferably both). This isn't me being lazy, I've had a considerable look through both catalogues and there are several options for a lot of the bits (especially CV boots). Also not all of the parts are entirely clear to me, having never replaced them before (e.g. the suspension top mount bushing). If someone could point me in the right direction for all four of the brake hoses (I think they speak for themselves though - only four options, one for each wheel, come up on GSF), the suspension bushing and the CV boot that would be great. The fuel pipe needs a but more investigation on my part to find out which bit actually needs replacing.

Having looked at my Haynes manual, in it's usual optimistic way it makes out that removing the CV joint/boot is incredibly easy. Pop the wheel off, undo the hub nut (I realise this won't be finger tight but I should be able to find a long bar somewhere), and then either pop the outer CV joint off with the drive shaft in situ, or undo some (funny shaped) bolts at the other end and pop the drive shaft out. Then, pop the CV joint off, new boot on, joint back on, Bob's your uncle, Fanny's your aunt, job done. Is it actually this easy in reality, or (as per usual) is it gonna be a Balzac of a job?

To put things in perspective for me - this time last year I overhauled the rear brakes with new drums, shoes and cylinders, and bled the system. That was a right pain in the donkey, but I handled it fine, so are any of these jobs likely to be more difficult/time consuming than that?

Thanks in advance.

[Nate]

another tip. don't even think of using an open ended spanner on a brake pipe. i.e. one of these:



if they haven't been off for a while chances are they'll be nicely seized in there, and all you will do is round them off. get yourself either a set of flare nut spanners like this:



or some crow feet spanners like this:



and you'll pretty much guarantee to get them off. if they are stupid tight, nip them up slightly tighter then undo them. often helps to break the rust. soak everything in the release lube of your choice before you start, preferably the day before and several times. wd40 is better than nothing, plusgas is the dogs back wheels.

useful links:

halfords flare nut spanners

machine mart crow foot wrench

machine mart flare nut spanner set

also, if you are replacing fuel lines with copper, check the price at your local plumbing merchant as well as the motor factors. sometimes (but not always) cheaper

[fonzooorooo]

Once again, thanks for the comments. All much appreciated.

As I'm somewhat of a noob, it would be really helpful if someone could post the part/cat numbers of the bits I need from GSF and/or ECP (preferably both). This isn't me being lazy, I've had a considerable look through both catalogues and there are several options for a lot of the bits (especially CV boots). Also not all of the parts are entirely clear to me, having never replaced them before (e.g. the suspension top mount bushing). If someone could point me in the right direction for all four of the brake hoses (I think they speak for themselves though - only four options, one for each wheel, come up on GSF), the suspension bushing and the CV boot that would be great. The fuel pipe needs a but more investigation on my part to find out which bit actually needs replacing.

Top mounts are integral rubber mounts and bearings. The haynes may show them as seperate. They're a stock item at most motor factors... Look at your CV boots (or go to the motor factors in your car, so you can offer them up) There'll be some for 90mm and some for 100mm CV joints, and (from memory) a couple of different lengths. The length is obvious if you look. If uncertain of the diameter, ask for them on sale or return - normally no problem.

Having looked at my Haynes manual, in it's usual optimistic way it makes out that removing the CV joint/boot is incredibly easy. Pop the wheel off, undo the hub nut (I realise this won't be finger tight but I should be able to find a long bar somewhere), and then either pop the outer CV joint off with the drive shaft in situ, or undo some (funny shaped) bolts at the other end and pop the drive shaft out. Then, pop the CV joint off, new boot on, joint back on, Bob's your uncle, Fanny's your aunt, job done. Is it actually this easy in reality, or (as per usual) is it gonna be a Balzac of a job?

It SHOULD be that easy! I've done some that really are - nice "30 mins including getting the jack out" kind of job. I've also had a couple that WON'T MOVE, ending up with the shaft in the vice, and grinding apart the ball cage with a dremel!

To put things in perspective for me - this time last year I overhauled the rear brakes with new drums, shoes and cylinders, and bled the system. That was a right pain in the donkey, but I handled it fine, so are any of these jobs likely to be more difficult/time consuming than that?

All the things you need to do now are easier, because there's no little springs to fight!

Thanks in advance.

[Tim_R]

These guys do the decent quality Febi top mounts for about the same price as GSF/ECP seem to ask for the rubbish pattern top mounts that last about 2 months.

I bought some last Thursday lunchtime and they had arrived before 9 on Friday morning so top service too!