8V Cam Shaft

[Funky Diver]

So, apart from stock 1.8 camshaft, and then the obvious of going to fast road high lift aftermarket camshaft, what's the inbetween choices please?

I noticed Jake recommended Golf GTi or injection (presumably Rocco) cam shafts would fit? Which version of Golf engine? Mk1 / Mk2, etc?

Cheers,
Rich

[Ryan]

Which version of Golf engine? Mk1 / Mk2, etc?

I'm pretty sure you can use both - so long as they are K-Jet.

[LEEP]

i have a 1.8inj gti cam shaft from a mk1 gti there do make a driffrance just ask markh

[Funky Diver]

It's not the difference I'm currently after, it's the fit

Need to know if a Mk2 goof GTi cam shaft will fit into a 1.8 standard 8valve rocco head.

[MikeH]

What engine are you starting with? What age is it?

If you've got a hydraulic tappet head, you need to use a hydraulic tappet cam. If solid, use solid. Changeover was about 1986.

Injection cams are a decent budget upgrade on a carb engine. Kjet injection cams are *slightly* longer duration that digifant injection ones from a golf Mk2.

I used to slag off Piper cams, and praise Newmans, but my views have changed. The piper 285 in my track car is still mint, after some hard miles over a few years (with me and previous owners of the engine). I hear iffy things about Kent cams being a bit soft, and lots of good things about CatCams. Schrick are great if you've got the money.

If you use a new cam, use new tappets, if it's a used cam, you're better off with used tappets.

When I change cams in an engine, I usually slosh gear oil over it before I bolt it in (it's thicker than engine oil, so hangs around a bit longer), and build up oil pressure in the engine before starting it (run it with the plugs out until the oil light goes out.).

[Funky Diver]

Right...

Head is my current head off my (august) 1989 GT. One of the last before switch over to GTII as far as I'm aware.

I have a 2E Golf GTi engine, complete with everything, head included, Digifant injection as far as I can make out, but won't know til I pick the engine up for sure.

So the plan was to use the 2E block with my existing head, and swap out the camshaft (and other shizzle), then sell on / store the ancilliaries off the 2E and the leftovers off mine until such time as I can get everything modified further than just a skim (funds being nearly at their current spend limit) :)

[MikeH]

The carb model cams that I've looked at only have about 9.2mm of lift, vs 10.2 for injection sciroccos and Mk2 golfs.

Mk3 golf 8v gti cams have about 9.6mm of lift I think, but there might be different ones at different years. It would be worth measuring it to find out.

You might be able to sell the digifant bits on - throttle bodies, fuel rails, etc, usually have some demand.

[Funky Diver]

That's the plan, should make back the cost of the engine and provide towards the cost of having the work done on the head.

[Funky Diver]

Right... have exhausted my ability to search the net in terms of Cam info.... and have compared as many specs as possible, however, think I may well be onto the right one(s).

Have attached the specs for the two of interest. Both appear in the VW brochure - under Golf 8v

Beyond lumpierness at idle for the second, what are going to be the biggest differences between the two? I'm NOT wanting a track cam shaft, need to have the car running nicely outside the house too and not needing to rev the nuts off it all the time.

[MikeH]

A 268 is fine in terms of driveability, especially in a 2.0.

Suggest you make sure the CC of the head is sized to give you a compression ratio of about 11:1

[Funky Diver]

Sweet and thank you, and Newman Cams are decent enough? Not too soft / don't suffer from inconsistent quality? (£150 seems a reasonable price compared to some, but I don't particualrly want to compromise too much on quality!)

[The Lunch Crasher]

Are you looking for a head to go on the 2l block? Reason I ask is I notice you talk about the cost of getting a head done, and I have one that might suit. It has been ported and polished, exhaust valves are 33mm and inlet 40mm. I know this is standard for injection but not sure on carb heads. It is not required by me, got it in a job lot so am willing to do a good deal on it. Needs final build up with spings and tappets but these are supplied.

[MikeH]

Home ported? There are a couple of things that make me think it's not a pro job. It's been painted rather than been caustic dipped and had the faces lightly skimmed to clean them up, and the port shapes aren't as even as some I've seen. Still looks pretty tidy overall though.

[Funky Diver]

Thanks for the offer Lunch, however, I'm spending over £400 on the motor as it is (blasting, paint, bearings, camshafts, etc etc) I'd rather continue on with the expense of having a head that I know to be sound and use that than introduce an unknown into the equation :)

[Funky Diver]

"Autotech Sport 270° Hydro Camshaft
What we feel is the finest sport hydraulic lifter camshaft available. Extensive experience with the VW engine design as well as consistent engine dynamometer testing has resulted in a camshaft that is without question the smoothest, most drivable performance cam you can buy. This cam allows the VW enthusiast to enjoy the benefits of a substantial power increase with no sacrifice in drivability.

The AUTOTECH 270° Hydro is the best performing street legal camshaft available. Its idle characteristics have been refined to the point that it idles as if it were a stock cam (15 inches vacuum @ 900rpm). Yet, its full-range power lets you know that it is definitely not stock! Torque increases over stock appear as low as 2500 rpm, continuing without fail until over 6000 rpm. Power gains range from 7 to 9 horsepower depending on vehicle and its state of tune. The AUTOTECH Sport 270° Hydro Cam is ground on an OEM chill-hardened billet. SportTuned Valve Springs are not required, but are highly recommended for the best top-end performance. Fits all 1.8L and 2.0L liter engines up to 1995 with hydraulic lifters, including crossflow heads. Lifetime warranty.

Lift: 0.449"
Duration: 270° at 0.1mm check, 112° lobe center.

OK, so could someone please translate into english!! The thing that does it for me is "idles as if it were a stock cam" and it's $160 :D