Instrument Cluster Removal Mk2

[WreckTangle]

I’m planning in a few weeks’ time to replace the bleeding LCD clock display in my Mk2 GTII. I’ve got the Haynes manual and have read this article but I was after any practical tips from anyone who has removed their cluster recently.

https://forum.sciroccoregister.co.uk/vi ... 4&p=156703

In particular, with the later style of steering wheel is it possible/practical to remove the cluster through it or is it better to remove the wheel? If removing it, is a puller needed or does it come off easily?

How straightforward is it to disconnect the cables from the back of the cluster with the shelf removed?

Any other useful tips?

Thanks in advance.

[GT_II]

I've only removed my instrument cluster once, to renew the main beam warning lamp. My recollection is this was pretty straightforward. I can't remember for sure whether I removed the steering wheel or under-dash shelf and cover. I think not - just eased the cluster forward, disconnected everything from the back and fed it through the gap. If you try without, you can always remove the shelf and cover and/or steering wheel afterwards if you find you need better access.

The steering wheel is very easy to remove - carefully ease out the horn button (taking care not to over-stretch the wiring), undo the nut with a socket and lift the steering wheel off its splines - no need for a puller.

[essextom]

its easiest to remove the wheel, only takes a few mins to do. youll also need to remove the parcel shelf from below, again only a few screws, only takes a few miins to do.

[p in phcas]

I have just gone through the pain of replacing the bleeding LCD. Removing the cluster is the easy part. It can be done without removing the steering wheel but it is a faff. For the last couple of times I have had the cluster out, removing the wheel made things soooo much easier.

Once the wheel is off, remove the 2 screws around the binnacle trim. Lift the cluster a little and get access to the 2 wring connectors (black and white ones) You might find it easier to remove the under-dash tray and covers to get your hands up through there. The speedo cable is easy, just find the side clips, squeeze and pull backwards. The one I found most hassle was the vacuum pipe for the MFA feed. It can be a bugger to pull off and there's very little room for any leverage and the pipe just stretches.

Once everything is disconnected, a little wiggling around and the clocks come out. That's where the real fun begins.

Depending on your clock type it might be easy or a really scary process. Mine is a 1990 Scala with rev, temp, fuel, MFA etc. If you have the LCD, I am assuming it is the same. To get to the LCD you basically have to strip the entire cluster to pieces as there is a PCB board that will stop you getting one of the LCD unit screws out. After (re)moving the rear circuit foil and the cluster screws, separate the front and back of the units to you have access to the clock faces. To get to the PCB board where the LCD lives, you will have to remove the Rev counter and fuel gauges. To remove the rev counter there are two screws on the front disk. Scratch them or the face of the rev counter and you will forever be staring at your mistake.

It is only two screws holding the LCD unit in place, access to said screws are the problem. Once removed, there's no soldering (phew) but pop the old out and put in the new.

Little tip. If you are using a brand new LCD screen, check there isn't a protective film covering it. If you miss it (like I did) you have have to take the whole thing apart again after a few months as it starts to wrinkle and separate from the glass of the LCD. Another job on the list.

I have some pictures, not sure if they cover everything.

Putting it all back together is easy, just make sure all the electrical bits work before putting trim, wheel and things back. Sometimes messing with the cluster can affect the transistor on the foil that keeps the fuel gauge etc happy. I had to take mine out again, clean the contacts and put back together.

I think, when I did my LCD (I had some speedo issues as well - another story) I had the clocks in and out about 5 times so this is written from memory.

[whiteshark]

Remove your steering wheel, no pullers necessary. Remove the shelf below as reconnecting the two main wires of the cluster will be a lot easier. When buying a replacement LED, make sure you get the right one as some sellers only sell one that will either work / do not work with the MFA. When I did this the first time, i screwed the LCD back on too tightly. Some days it worked and then on other days it was reading like an upside down calculator!! While your at it and you have the instrument cluster out, think about getting a few LED's and replace your dash bulbs. Much brighter and will probably last a lifetime. I went for a green tint set to match the light in the ashtray and it looks cool as if I say so myself. They are very good on a long drive especially at night on a country road. No more dim speedo.

[mark1gls]

If you do remove the steering wheel make sure the wheels are straight and loosen the nut till it’s near the end but don’t remove the nut then you may need to bang the steering wheel from behind to get it off.

If you remove the nut completely then bang the steering wheel from behind it flys off and hit you in face…. I know, I found out the hard way and a few others on here have done the same thing…

[whiteshark]

As above, been there and got the t shirt!

[WreckTangle]

Thank you for all these really useful tips. I am aiming to do the job next month when I tax the car and get it out of winter storage. I’ll update with how it goes. I’ve bought the LCD screen from Brickwerks. Mine is just the clock, not an MFA.

[mark1gls]

Shout if you need any help and let us know how you get on.

[WreckTangle]

So much for doing this job last year. I actually just did it today!

I combined it with replacing my late model large spline steering wheel with an earlier small spline wheel too. The tips above were very useful. Thanks all. Although, re-reading this now, I wish I’d double checked there was no protective film on the new LCD. I’m fairly sure there wasn’t as I polished up the screen before reassembly.

I also used these videos to make sure I was doing things right along the way.

https://youtu.be/I2UO0CLlwQM

https://youtu.be/HpYYWuCxqzs

https://youtu.be/hT6ROkQZHWk

This is the LCD i used. It works fine for the non-MFA clock in my GT2.

https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/digita ... ir-kit-t3/

And this is the correct tool to get the large spline adapter off the steering column. It has the advantage it does so without any damage to the adapter or the steering column. If the link no longer works Google BGS 7727.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00871XKSI

I’d say the job went fairly well. I had to dismantle the instrument cluster a second time to tighten the clock screws to get a dud segment on the LCD working. Fortunately, one of those videos mentions this.

Oh, and for anyone else wanting to substitute a small spline steering wheel onto a later car you have to remove the spring immediately under the spline adapter (glass pot, second picture) and replace it with part number 171419549 which is a plastic spacer (first picture) which is a tight fit on the column. Without this spacer, the horn will apparently sound randomly as you turn the wheel.

It obviously makes sense to change the illumination bulbs in the cluster while it is out. I believe these are part number 431919040 which looks very similar to B8.5D type 286T bulbs but they are not the same. I was able to modify the actual bulbs out of three of the latter and fit them in the original plastic bases. It would obviously be preferable to have some of the right bulbs in stock.

[WreckTangle]

So, when I bought my replacement LCD a couple of years ago I bought two in order to have a spare. I checked the spare and, lo and behold, it had a plastic film over it. So tonight’s job was redoing the whole blooming job to remove that. If there is one takeaway from this thread it’s to check new LCDs for protective film before burying them deep in the dash.

Happy with the end result though.

[trevor]

Dear WreckTangle,

I am writing to you out of frustration and as usual require your assistance. My issue differs from yours in that I have a spurious oil pressure warning. Having checked all the pressure switches, oil pressure etc have concluded the likely culprit is the 'L' shaped oil pressure unit inside the cluster. I have removed everything from my instrument cluster and the unit is free to move. I have read other versions of the cluster removal and tried them all to no avail. Golfs seem to have similar issues please see link below...

https://www.volkswagenownersclub.com/th ... gti.45153/

Can you shed any light onto the subject? Did you "lever" your cluster out? Is there a technique to removal? I have tried every recorded method but I am concerned that I may break or scratch something. Comments like "Prise it out", however gently, do get me worried.

Any assistance would be most appreciated. Square pegs and round holes spring to mind!!!??!!!...

Kind regards,

Trevor

[PeteGLi]

Hi Trevor
You have six pins along the top of the thick arm of the "L" which are a push fit into sockets and should lever out fairly easily.
There are some plastic lugs (not sure how many) that the "L" shaped board clips under - certainly one on the end of the thick arm, one along the top, I think. Not sure where the others are.
Have you removed the speedo or tacho screen that the board sits behind? Because I think you may find a screw at the end of the thin arm of the "L", which you cannot get to otherwise.
I am saying this from memory, as I am looking at the "L" shaped board sitting on my desk.
Peter

[trevor]

Thank you for the information Peter. It will come in very handy once I manage to remove the stubborn instrument cluster from the dash. It is still stuck despite my best efforts. Any ideas?

[GT_II]

The dashboard is unique to the Scirocco Mk2, so I don't think anything you might find online on the Golf will be relevant. Have you removed the plastic frame that sits in front of the cluster, by removing the two screws under the cowling?