0055 wrote:Hi. Does anyone know if the roof trim strips are available anywhere, or have a part number so I can search for them? I looked on 7zap, but couldn't see anything.Have had a search on here and seen they can be troublesome to remove. But, mine are missing!
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I’m after the end of one of these,
Give joost (blueshark) a PM think he might have complete sets, I know he doesn’t have singles.
Car looks good not back shape at all, I was lucky with my Scala nothing had rot wise at all.
Jack
South East
www.motorsportdiscounts.co.uk
Seat Leon 1.8T 20V - Track Car
VW Scirocco Scala 1.8 Inj - Toy
Ford Transit 2.0 - Work Horse
Cheers for the info. I might send him a pm. Spend half an hour on the car tonight. When the temp switch plug is looped out, the fan kicks in, so that’s good. I heated up the switch with the pins connected to a multi meter and it goes from open circuit when cold, to varying amounts on resistance when it gets hot, so hopefully it is/was an airlock causing the problem. The coolant flange hasn’t turned up yet, so can’t fit that!
Looking over the engine, it’s going to need plugs, leads, points, fluids/filters and belts. I think this is roughly £200 worth, but even then, there might be some other issues with the engine. Unfortunately, I didn’t actually speak to the guy who’s car it was, I dealt with his elderly parents, so couldn’t get the full low down on the car. Although, they were certain it was running fine when it was parked up in 2007.
Although I have done full engine rebuilds before (at work) I don’t really have the time or certain specialist tools to do one now. How much does anyone reckon to get the engine sent away for a full refurb? I’m talking car sos style! Send away a rusty lump and get back a fully overhauled freshly painted engine. Also, I’m in the Peterborough area, so does anyone know of any companies within 50/75ish miles round here that I could talk to about this?
I would be tempted to get it serviced and run it for a while before deciding if it needs a rebuild. Look out for the Euro Car Parts discount codes to keep the parts costs down and go from there. It may still be a good engine.
My '89 Scala was off the road for nearly 10 years, I've fully serviced it and whilst it had a few niggles and has a couple of bits to sort, it runs well and doesn't use any oil or water :)
Yeah, good advice I suppose. I would like to try and get some use out of it if I can and if I did do a resto, realistically it’s well over a year away! When I did my Corrado I always used gsf, they send out 50/60% off codes every week! I might have a compression gauge somewhere. Didn’t even think about that. Did you flush your fuel tank out?
Injection. So I was a little worried about any crap getting into the injection system. I priced up all the service items I would need, including things like timing belt kit,plugs, Leads, distributor, oil and filters and after discount only came in at about £120. So this isn’t too bad. I think I will order these parts up, give the engine a good service after doing a compression test and see what happens.
I have just done the compression test. It was a dry test, fuel relay pulled with a closed throttle and my reading were 200psi on cylinders 1,2 and 3. But, 175 ish psi on cylinder 4. What does everyone think? Most people say allow 10% differential, so mine is just outside that.
Compression for 123 are very good and ok for 4, I would run the engine and see how it performs.
Before starting the car remove the lift pump and fuel sender out the fuel tank and have a good look inside and check the filter is on the end of lift pump and fuel tank cleanish inside. Run the car for a month or so and change the main fuel filter again. You don’t want any bits getting into the injection system.
1st time of starting remove the rotor arm and crank the engine a few times to get the oil pressure up, replace rotor arm and hope it starts.
Cheers for all the info and the reassurance. I’ll order up all the service bits this week and try to get it done next week. I’ll get a few pics and puts them up to go with all the words!
The engines are pretty bomb proof and with regular service will last well over 200,000 miles.
Just take it easy with the engine the 1st 1000 miles, no more than 1/2 throttle and don’t go over 4000 rpm, new oil, oil filter and fuel filter after 1000 miles and hopefully you will have a fully working car.
Check and double check the cam belt timing marks, turn engine over by hand a good couple of revolution before starting the car, these engine run better on super unleaded fuel as well.
Keep us up dated on progress and ask for help if needed, fingers crossed for you.....
First update for a while! I got all the servicing done. Including a new radiator as the old one started leaking when it had some coolant in it for a week or so.
But, the MOT tester I use came round on his way home one day to have a look (friend of a friend scenario) and he said there will be a fair amount of work to get it through the test.
All new brake hoses, due to bad corrosion, all new bushes underneath due to them all being cracked causing loads of play throughout the front end. The passenger door would need patching up due to rust (although I do have a brand new skin for this) and there is a bad patch of rust in the boot above the filler neck. Then there are the obvious things like wiper blades, cracked headlights (for which I have one, but not the other) and all tyres being cracked/worn.
It’s just to much for me at the minute coming into the summer. I think I’ll wait until we’re coming into the winter and go down the resto route.
It’s a shame as I wanted to use it, I already have an immaculate new interior to go in it, which will have to stay in the loft for now.
For now, it’s been put on skates and pushed to one side in the garage. I definitely don’t want to sell it, so watch this space!
