Mk1 Storm restoration

[paul_c]

I have a Scirocco and I was kinda hoping to keep it and eventually one day restore it. But, I might need to sell it. It was fairly reliable and I ran it for a little while. However its MoT ran out a year ago and since then its just been stored. I have run the engine every couple of wheels and driven it short distances, to stop it seizing up.

Its a Mk1 Scirocco Storm, in brown. It failed the MoT on:

Brake lights not working
Front exhaust mount missing
Brake pipe not supported
OSF wheel bearing
OSR wheel bearing
Exhaust emissions (CO)
NSF floor corrosion
OSF floor corrosion
NS sill corrosion
OS sill corrosion
NSR floor corrosion
handbrake below efficiency
normal brakes below efficiency

And also advisories:
underneath corroded in general
driver's seat loose
front crossmember corroded

I have the mechanical bits to replace the 2x bearings, also the heater matrix leaks slightly but I have a replacement one of these too.

Here's some pics:









Obviously its a bit of a project and it will need the welding done, and also a bunch of mechanical/electrical things looked at too. But its paintwork is generally in good condition so it wouldn't need a respray and the car is almost original including the leather interior. The main non-original thing is that the engine has been swapped to a 1.8 instead of a 1.6. The engine is fine, with no running issues.

So, any ideas on a realistic value?

Thanks

[filmidget]

As you say, nothing to scary mechanically... but eek! that's some list of rusty bits - a lot of work when the ends of the sills, and hence probably beam mounts too, need to be replaced.

Not sure on value though. With that list it's unfortunately possibly worth more in parts(?)

Will point this thread out to Autoad later.

[The Autoad]

As it is, it isn't worth much in one piece. But do the welding and the rest of the work required to a good standard and then suddenly the price you can command will be high.

by the way, are you the same Paul who is nifty with a welder when confronted with a mk1 Golf?

[SCIROCCOSILBERFEDER]

I have a Scirocco and I was kinda hoping to keep it and eventually one day restore it. But, I might need to sell it. It was fairly reliable and I ran it for a little while. However its MoT ran out a year ago and since then its just been stored. I have run the engine every couple of wheels and driven it short distances, to stop it seizing up.

Its a Mk1 Scirocco Storm, in brown. It failed the MoT on:

Brake lights not working
Front exhaust mount missing
Brake pipe not supported
OSF wheel bearing
OSR wheel bearing
Exhaust emissions (CO)
NSF floor corrosion
OSF floor corrosion
NS sill corrosion
OS sill corrosion
NSR floor corrosion
handbrake below efficiency
normal brakes below efficiency

And also advisories:
underneath corroded in general
driver's seat loose
front crossmember corroded

I have the mechanical bits to replace the 2x bearings, also the heater matrix leaks slightly but I have a replacement one of these too.

Here's some pics:









Obviously its a bit of a project and it will need the welding done, and also a bunch of mechanical/electrical things looked at too. But its paintwork is generally in good condition so it wouldn't need a respray and the car is almost original including the leather interior. The main non-original thing is that the engine has been swapped to a 1.8 instead of a 1.6. The engine is fine, with no running issues.

So, any ideas on a realistic value?

Thanks

Hello!

AH that list is a mear scratch lol

I should not get to disheartened by the list, there are younger cars that fail on more, dont forget its nearing 30 years old!!

Being on an X plate i say get the work done, its probably 3 / 4 days at most assuming all goes well and the welding is not too great. EG brake lights not working could simply be bulbs / fuse. CO fault could be dirty air filter or just turn the CO screw ac to give a leaner mixture etc etc

I say this as i have just worked my wotsit off and it put me in hospital, to get my V reg storm through the MoT and after it passed today it was all worth it - just! I cant stand getting burning metal in the eye!! YES i had goggles on etc etc

Value, your MoT was useful as that gives a list of what is needed for it to be made legal again. With old cars you have to view the MoT as a list of "to dos" rather than "it failed on".

I would be valuing the storm £600 - £800 as it is now [without seeing it whatsoever in the flesh] as i would say its going to around £300-£400 to get the work done by someone else for eg, really depends on the welding. I think a MK 1 Storm on an X plate for aorund a £1000 on the road with t&t and maybe i cant be bad!

Kind regards

SSF

[81GTi]

I'm probably not going to be as positive as our friend SSF... and say it looks great but sounds like it could be a real dog, present value maybe £600 at a push,potential? £3-4k

worth doing? definitely.

how would you get the best price possible for your car? put it on ebay and start the car at 99p with no reserve, this way you will generate more interested buyers and once you get a few interested the bidding war will commence as they don't come up too often, I would expect it to make around £1200-£1500 on ebay,double or more than what I think it is worth.

[paul_c]

Thanks for the replies, £600-800 seems about right to me, the brake lights were just due to a poor electrical contact and I fixed them in half an hour. I've not looked at the other issues though, I have another project on the go so the car is simply stored, for now. It would be nice to see it restored instead of used for spares but obviously if I sell it, I don't really have much say in its onwards use!

[whatalotafun]

hey paul, is that a mk1 cabby parked next to your rocco?

[Reverend Frog]

or buy automotive_mj's shell and transfer everything across

[paul_c]

Update: I still have the car, and its been 'waiting for restoration' all this time. I've started it regularly, every couple of weeks or so, and either let it sit to warm up, or driven it a little bit. This week I started on the mechanical stuff, I removed the front hub and attempted to change the front wheel bearing. However, its not possible without a press and I broke the new wheel bearing hammering it in. Oh well. So I'll need to take the hub to a garage and get them to press it in/out. I might also rebuild the brakes with new components, seeing that the discs are fairly rusty and its probably going to need new fluid (brake bleed nipples don't look too happy).

[DannyH]

Great to see you've still got it Paul.

you know it's too good to part with, if you've got the space it's a great project.

never did manage to make it down to yours and i'm even further away now.

[jimmy h]

Update: I still have the car, and its been 'waiting for restoration' all this time. I've started it regularly, every couple of weeks or so, and either let it sit to warm up, or driven it a little bit. This week I started on the mechanical stuff, I removed the front hub and attempted to change the front wheel bearing. However, its not possible without a press and I broke the new wheel bearing hammering it in. Oh well. So I'll need to take the hub to a garage and get them to press it in/out. I might also rebuild the brakes with new components, seeing that the discs are fairly rusty and its probably going to need new fluid (brake bleed nipples don't look too happy).

Paul,

I've just overhauled the front brake calipers on my mk 1 storm.

Brake Nipples - Take my advice.

I've not got access to a proper hot spanner (Oxy Acetylene) so I just used one of them little propane lamps that Plummers use.
They are cheap as chips from DIY stores, I took the caliper off the car(make sure you have a way of stopping all the brake fluid draining away or, it's a new master cylinder on the list) and clamped it gently in a vice, applied lots of heat to the nipple and surrounding area then sprayed with penetrating oil (Watch it, it will combust as soon as you spray it on - but it extinguishes easily)
Repeat this process many times.

When you are confidant that the oil has done its trick and got around the nipple threads, try rotating the nipple anti-clockwise and clockwise ever-so-gently in tiny movements - it is best to use a seven sided socket for this rather than a spanner, adjustable spanner or, mole grips.

You can still get the Caliper seals and all the other bits from Volkswagen - I spray - painted my Calpers and decided they would really benefit from new nipples being fitted, I tried all the usual motorfactors and drew a blank. Sooooo I got some new shiny one's straight from Germany at £5.00 each plus the VAT

What recconditioned Calpers cost, and their availability maybe worth pursuing

[Jay4424]

Where are you based Paul, I can. Push bearings in and out

[Nate]

i think you'll find that the missing exhaust mount is no longer a fail, so long as the rest of the mounts hold it secure. they've recently made a few changes to the test ;)

[MikeH]

As already said, it really depends on how bad the rust is underneath. If it's localised enough that you can make up repair patches, then that keeps the cost down. if you end up having to buy big repair sections, the price goes up, as they're getting harder to find for some bits. Sounds like there are quite a lot of rusty areas, but it depends if they all join up in the middle, and the extent of corrosion on the rear beam mounts.

[paul_c]

I got the bearings done at a local garage in the end. There might be a few other things to do, and £££ to spend, for example I might need a new track rod end too. It will have to wait a few more days until I have space to start stripping out the interior properly and looking at the sills, to see how much welding is due, but I'm not too worried about doing a bit of patching.