Front spring gone
Forum rules
Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
Hints, tips and guides for repair and modification - the FAQ section on the main website is worth checking first for information relating to common faults and technical help. Useful posts and guides will be added to the FAQ http://www.sciroccoregister.co.uk/scirocco-faq
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Re: Front spring gone
yes, an offset ring spanner will get them off easy. for that matter, so will a windy gun.
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Re: Front spring gone
Those off set ring spanners don't go up to 21mm which is the size of my nut.....
Mk1 78 Scirocco GLS 1.6 FR, weekend toy.
Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
Membership No. 323
Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
Membership No. 323
Re: Front spring gone
The link was only to illustrate the type of spanner, other sizes are available. :)
1985 GTL 1.8
Member number 928 (wish I had one)
Member number 928 (wish I had one)
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Re: Front spring gone
good point. you can't get 21mm ring spanners anywheremark1gls wrote:Those off set ring spanners don't go up to 21mm which is the size of my nut.....
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Re: Front spring gone
how do I reset the camber the haynes manual says to mark the position first but as always not how.
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Re: Front spring gone
Either go to a garage that can do camber and tracking and get it all set up costs about £60 and you know it's spot on or try and find a flat level bit of ground and get a sprit level on the car to check its level then on the wheel and adjust it till its horizontal, the problem is the car needs to be on its wheels on the floor, its just about do able lying on the floor with your arms up behind the wheel while looking at the sprit level. If you rase the car to loosen the bolts/nuts you will need to move the car backwards then forwards to get them sitting right then adjust the camber tighten to bots/nuts then check, move the backwards and forwards then recheck, jack the car up and torque up the bolts/nuts.
With the sprit level on the wheel you need to make sure its on the rim of the wheel not the tyre so you might need to make or find something to touch the rim if the level is rocking on the face of the wheel, I found a steel wheel has a rim which sticks out further than the face so I use them to adjust the camber.
With the sprit level on the wheel you need to make sure its on the rim of the wheel not the tyre so you might need to make or find something to touch the rim if the level is rocking on the face of the wheel, I found a steel wheel has a rim which sticks out further than the face so I use them to adjust the camber.
Mk1 78 Scirocco GLS 1.6 FR, weekend toy.
Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
Membership No. 323
Mk1 88 Golf GTi cabriolet 1.8 DX. Daily drive.
Membership No. 323
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Re: Front spring gone
I never got the camber set on mine. All I did was spraypaint over the bolts to mark their position (make sure its dry before undoing them) and lining it back up carefully after.
Or just putting as much negative camber as I could
Or just putting as much negative camber as I could
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Re: Front spring gone
An easy way to get it more or less correct:
Jack the car up so wheel is off the ground; make sure the steering is dead ahead; put a straight edge across the wheel; measure the distance from this to the edge of the wing; when you reassemble get this distance the same.
Not as accurate as doing it professionally, but, in my experience, more accurate than 'Haynes' way.
Remember altering the camber affects the tracking, so if your steering wheel is not centralised (assuming it was before) after refitting, you've got the camber different. Do one side at a time. This system won't be as accurate if you change dampers to ones with a different droop length, but the error will be minimal.
With regard to the offset ring spanner, I use an old imperial A/F one which is a perfect fit!
When removing struts jack up both sides of the car, this stops you having to fight the anti-roll bar!
Jack the car up so wheel is off the ground; make sure the steering is dead ahead; put a straight edge across the wheel; measure the distance from this to the edge of the wing; when you reassemble get this distance the same.
Not as accurate as doing it professionally, but, in my experience, more accurate than 'Haynes' way.
Remember altering the camber affects the tracking, so if your steering wheel is not centralised (assuming it was before) after refitting, you've got the camber different. Do one side at a time. This system won't be as accurate if you change dampers to ones with a different droop length, but the error will be minimal.
With regard to the offset ring spanner, I use an old imperial A/F one which is a perfect fit!
When removing struts jack up both sides of the car, this stops you having to fight the anti-roll bar!