any ideas on how to shift coilover locking rings? they're stuck solid and can't seem to shift them. they're pretty new though, and in good nick. bought an ebay spanner and unsuprisingly it's a poor fit, which doesn't help.

still having problems. can't seem to get the - switch on the doors, or the - switch for the bonnet or boot to work. doesn't seem to set the alarm off no matter what i connect them to. very confused. any suggestions? the + door switch seems to work fine.

ive been checking various parts of the cold start setup, as my car is the same. I and have found that my auxiliary air valve (behind the head) was stuck slightly open, meaning that the engine wasn't getting enough air when cold. i'll be replacing it this week, and think that could be causing the ...

the switch works fine, as the light comes on. will have a tinker tomorrow.

ive got this all set up and working now, just need to get the boot sensor working. the wire is connected to the boot light switch which works fine, but it doesnt want to set off the alarm when its opened. the connection is marked as "-" so do i need to invert it with something? surely it would just ...

so do i just patch them in directly behind the front indicators? there's a couple of wires coming from each, and i'm not sure which is +

i've just fitted a simple central locking alarm to my car and it's all good, apart from i'm not sure where to connect the wires for the light flash on arm, disarm. there's 2 wires coming from the alarm designated for lights, both positive, i'm presuming i just have to intercept each front indicator ...

not sure if this is the cause, but after much fiddling i found that my auxiliary air valve was stuck in a slightly opened position. i'm swapping it out for another one as i had similar starting issues. I'm wondering if the lack of extra air at startup was causing difficulty to start and idle. i'm ...

thinking of doing this myself, and looks like a nice fairly simple job. a lot better than the head rebuild on the 24 valve 3 litre supra i just did!

ha ha. no probs. i know new stuff fails too, but radiator was first thing i checked and all seemed ok. no steam, drips etc.

i'm giving the whole engine a good once over at the moment, so no doubt the leak will raise it's head!

will check all the relevant bits. cheers for the tips.

i seem to have a coolant leak, as after a long drive of a few hundred miles, it had gone down a couple of inches in the tank. any suggestions for common culprits? the radiator is pretty much new so it's not that. i'm guessing a hose somewhere, but can't seem to locate it.

what's LS-X? ive got a coolant leak somewhere and think it may just be vapourising from the ends of a couple of hoses even though they're clamped on.

cheers rich , i may well do. it seems like the valve is sticking slightly open. i'm gonna wd40 it and see how that goes. how much do you want just for the valve? the hoses are all fine.

apparently not. i'd need to pay 140 quid for a quieter back box. i've looked and i can just swap out the back box for the standard one, they both connect at the same point.