How's it currently wired up? You may need to repin the plug for it to work.

Logic would suggest it should be as below:
Pin 8 - Ground - Brown
Pins 5 & 7 Permanent 12v - Yellow & White (possibly a loop wire needed)
Pin 4 - Ignition switched feed - Red

The stereo will need the permanent live for the memory, so you don't have to enter the code every time and storing radio stations and general settings. Brake lights could have flattened the battery, check the switch, may need replacing, unless there's an issue with it contacting the pedal. The rear ...

Early cars had a oil temperature gauge and later had a voltmeter. They definitely had a voltmeter if they were equipped with a MFA/injection engine.

I've seen a few posts of forums for the same question, they suggest it denotes 'special order'. So it may not be a standard red, e.g. not Tornado or Paprika etc.

http://www.bosch-automotive-catalog.com ... cle-search

Useful for finding Bosch part numbers when looking around for replacement parts.

You can decode the option equipment listed on your sticker in the boot and service book here: http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx There's not much you can decipher from the VIN other than the model, model year and location of manufacture etc. Requesting the birth certificate and build sheet from Volkswa...

A friend of mine told me he'd seen a white Scirocco sat in a corner in a Ford breakers in Nottingham (Mainline), so I went to have a look in case I could get a few bits for my Scala. It turns out it is for sale, so I couldn't have anything off it. It's a 'H' plate GTII in white, with 175k on the clo...

It does sound like the timing, you could carefully adjust the position of the dizzy to see if it improves, but it will need setting with a timing light either way. Glad to hear it's sorted, all good experience.

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As long as the HT leads are fitted to the dizzy cap and haven't be moved, and as the cap can only be fitted in one position, mark the body of the dizzy for the No1 lead position. Then with cam and crank at TDC, carefully slacken the belt and rotate the intermediate shaft until the rotor arm points t...

Ideally to ensure you're at TDC on number 1 cylinder (not no.3), remove the cam cover and check that the can lobes are pointing upwards on cylinder 1.

The markings/notch on my bottom pulley are very faint, so are hard to see.

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It could also be piston rings or even head gasket.
A dry and then a wet compression test would confirm valve seals or rings. I would imagine that there is excess pressure when taking the oil filler cap of whilst it is running.

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This is from the Haynes manual, I hope it's clear enough. There is also an illustration with dimensions for the rack position without the tie-rods fitted if you need it.

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It's a vacuum reservoir, ideally it should be refitted to avoid running issues. There is a green one on eBay, but I'm sure someone around here may be able to help you out.

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Definitely worth changing the gear oil, potentially it could be the original oil. I used Millers TRX Synth 75w 90 in mine, it certainly was an improvement, but very little old oil came out so the 'box may have suffered a bit anyway. There are plenty of oil options, most manufacturers have a checker ...

I know what you mean. Try slackening the bolts and then turning them back just before they tighten again and they may hold the position one side whilst you adjust they other.

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