the 6 deg BTDC quoted in the book is assuming super unleaded, hence won't be ideal for regular fuel.

Can you TEST the fuel pressure?

what CO analyser are you using? My Gunson one used to read wildly different numbers each time I used it (and NEVER agreed with the one at the MOT station!)

Did you get anywhere with this? (I don't come on her much, and have noticed a month's gone by!)

Sounds like you've got something "different" with that engine - (The "usual" UK scirocco 1.8i is a DX which is Kjet with NO ECU - there's the ignition module, just like on the carbed cars, but that's it ...

I thought there was a vauxhall one that's 4 stud, but I can't find a reference to it. You'd want spacers due to the high offset anyway, so they might as well be adapters.

These guys:

https://www.facebook.com/grizzagadget.trading

look like they'll make a set of 4 for £70. (no experience of them ...

I thought about this once. Weber'd car, no MFA, Tesco fuel (for the points!)

I set the ignition timing using the "advance till it pinks then back off a smidge" approach for super. Drove the car. ... Did the same on regular. The MPG increase from using super was cancelled out by the cost difference ...

yep. as I understand it, you want LATE cabrio (if the manufacturer actually does the different rates). They're the heaviest, with all the extra steel to reinforce the roof-less car, and the clipper bodykit. It's those that are comparable to the bodykitted mk2 'rocco.

^ that looks pretty normal(!)

As above, I think mk1 golf are the same. Crazy Quiff do (or did) sell them too. £30 ish is the going rate.

Power steering is likely to be the same diameter, but shorter. (the turret on the rack is taller on PAS)

We had Goodyear Efficient Grip on the polo ('03 "9n") they came on a set of 2nd hand wheels, they gripped really well and lasted well too. They were even good in the snow!

My 'rocco met it's demise on P6000s... (30mph on spilled diesel) They're still alive on the mk1 cab, but that's strictly a ...

The lacquer isn't very well adhered to the shiny bits on Lensos - tends to let water in, leading to corrosion - you often see this on daily cars with them... as you say - a couple of years at best before it begins - usually the 1st winter kills them(!)

Bigger/wider wheels always tend to suffer from ...

Yep - you'd just need senders for the dash gauges/lights, and a vac. advance dizzy (relevant if you're looking at later/digi engines) (or some electronics to support electronic advance whereupon you'd need the crank position sensor)

bearing in mine i want to use a webber carb and cba with blanking any injector holes,

I think that's the tricky bit. I'm not aware of ANY (standard) carbed 16V VW engines. .. and if you were to graft a weber (assuming you're thinking DMTL like you'd put on an 8V) on the end of a standard 16V ...

Oooh, i see you're a part-time local too (I'm just at Coalville) ... I'm rocco-less these days, but we have a bit of a fleet of other '90s VWs - I'll give you a wave if I see you!

If you reattach the plug (it'll be a 2 core wire - core and screen) , it's already summed mono, and is likely to have a low pass, and potentially a level control on the headunit.

Any earth is OK - as long as it's a good connection. - If it works happily how it is, leave it alone!

That's the wrong wire you've chopped... That's AUDIO out to the sub... Your remote should be connected to the power antenna lead (that becomes live when the headunit's switched on, so the antenna goes up)

+1 on Nate's query about the earth too.

Black GTII in Coalville (leics) town centre yesterday afternoon. I was in the mk2 going the other way.

2 pin electrical connector on carbed cars, 3 pin on injection. The fuel lines are bigger diameter on injection cars too (as are the outlets on the sender unit.)You could delete the lift pump by transferring the pickup from one unit to another, but life feels short for that sort of game!