My FR 1600 has done 124k miles and is burning oil.
It is running well and is economical.
Compression is consistent but is only c90 PSI across all 4 (although it was tough to get the union tight in the spark plug hole)
I suspect valve stem oil seals will need to be changed but would that impact ...

Thanks. I’ve now managed to get all the lights working - a mixture of bulbs, bulb holders, switches, relays and bad connections! Even with the resistor at max they’re not particularly bright though.

Update. Most of it now working. Just a few switches - headlamp, hazard, handbrake warning light.

I’m not sure I’m using the right bulbs. Can anyone tell me what the correct bulbs are please?

I have a bit of a mishmash of dash lights working -all exterior lights are fine.

Headlight switch is new and dimmer works

Rev counter, rear window heater, heater control panel all light up ok.

Speedo, handbrake warning light, hazard light switch and headlight switch, clock do not light up.

Fog ...

Just road tested it and it's running lovely. After all the trials and tribulations! At least everything is done - other than the carb which seems to be ok. Now onto the last job - dashboard lights. There maybe another post in that section to follow.

So the cam and crank were aligned properly but the intermediate shaft was a couple of teeth out. Dizzy was previously adjusted to correct for the misalignment - now back where it should be.it started well and ran fine in the garage - just need an improvement in the weather now to road test.

Thanks for suggestions. I’m also wondering if timing belt is a tooth out? If I set distributor timing as per the book it doesn’t run well. I’ve had to set it where it feels the sweetest which is not close to TDC. As above it starts ok and seems to accelerate ok - it’s the bit in the middle that’s ...

It’s an 82 1.6GL with Pierburg 2B5.
Symptom is at low revs it is a little hesitant - not as smooth as I would hope. Starts fine. Accelerates well.
I’ve changed plugs leads and dizzy cap. Coil resistance is correct. I’ve fixed the vacuum circuit. I’ve played with the timing and it is set at best ...

I think I’ve sorted it - although can’t be sure with an intermittent fault. There was a poor earth connection from the carb - would explain intermittent nature. Replaced it now running fine again. For now

It’s a 1.6 FR engine with 2B5 Pierburg.

Car was running ok but still a bit lumpy and jittery at low speed. At one point while idling it just stopped. After a couple of tries it started and idled fine.

I assumed it was dirty jets so have bitten the bullet and changed the fuel pipes. Filter at tank ...

Is that really the value? I think I’ve got a bargain if so ! Does auto add anything to value? I would have thought overall condition is key.

I can see the early non body kitted mk2’s are rarer so they may have a premium over the later ones.

Update on this in case it helps someone else at some point.

Car is now running sweet. It was many small things - vacuum circuit, timing and a poor HT lead at the coil.

Fixed all of that but still was suffering what felt like fuel starvation. So as an experiment I bypassed the new swirl pot and ...

It’s already 25mm lower with dampers to suit. Looks standard height though to me. I wonder if these same dampers could be used with 40mm lower springs?

My car has a 25mm lowering kit from System 2 - an old but I believe decent system including springs and dampers.

Do you think I would be able to swap out the 25mm springs with 50mm lowering springs and leave the dampers?

It rides fine at the moment but sits a little too high.

It’s a manual - so hopefully ok