Are you definitely getting a good flow of coolant through the auto choke and the wax stat? While you had the carb apart did you run water through the auto choke? They have a tendency to block. Across the three units I cannibalised to build my working carb one was totally blocked with radweld and ano...

Also, does your wax stat mechanism have the adjustment screw present and tightened? In this pic of one of mine (with the throttle mechanism removed) you can see the screw I mean between the two plates on the wax stat mechanism. If present it’s obscured by part of the throttle assembly in your pictur...

When you turn off the ignition does the 3/4 point unit fully withdraw its plunger and then extend it again as the vacuum subsides? Have you attached the electrical connections correctly? There should be a wire to the idle overrun control valve. When you switch off the engine you will have vacuum on ...

Presumably you realise by now that the colour-coded rings at the base of the vacuum spigots on the carb and its accoutrements provide a map of what connects to what. I think it matches the colour-coding in those drawings. The complication is that some of the tubes have T and Y pieces. Remember to pu...

The choke pulldown unit has two ports, A and B. A connects to a port on the carb. B connects to a T-piece on the hose from the green ball vacuum reservoir. You should have a coolant hose, VW p/n 026121062C, that connects between the automatic choke and the wax stat. The other connections are p/n 037...

One more thing... Ive scoured the manual and the internet and there is nothing to fix a Pierburg that has been totally screwed by a previous owner. Surely there is something between the white plastic part of the auto choke and the choke flap in the carb?? A spring perhaps - I have nothing.. Im almo...

It looks as though the pin on your wax stat is protruding more than it should at room temperature. This might explain why it pushes in when you attach it to the carb. The adjustment you can make is not to the wax stat but to the warm-up curve it influences on the carb; i.e. for a given protrusion of...

PS. Before you go to the trouble of reinstalling the carb on the car you might want to obtain and replace the carb flange, VW part number 026129761E, unless you’re absolutely certain it’s relatively new and not leaking. Cracks in the rubber are very hard to spot and will play havoc with engine perfo...

There are procedures for properly setting most of the things that might have been tinkered with to compensate for the non-functioning wax stat. You need to have set the basics correctly as you reassembled the carb. You adjust the warm up curve for your new wax stat using special tool 4.07360.02. You...

You also need to determine if you are getting a good flow of coolant through the wax stat circuit. There is an o-ring behind the inlet manifold which can break down and block the coolant channel. Good description of it in the Golf Mk1 Pierburg FAQ. The Scirocco is fundamentally the same setup as the...

You might do well to test the 3/4 point unit for vacuum integrity early on because it may take you a while to source a working replacement if you need one. The test procedure is in section 3 of the service manual on that DaDogHouse link. I bought a US Pro 5322 hand vacuum pump kit for under £20 do d...

Just to confirm, at least from the 1988 model year, switched live for the radio is red/brown Thanks. I suppose it is funny in a way that a previous owner of my 1991 GT2 went to the trouble of dismantling the centre console in order to scotch lock a switched live into the blower circuit when there w...

Its just those two wires by the fusebox now. Could they be for the electric Arial ?? Mine is broken so I don't know if it was or not. If it’s any help, when I fitted my stereo there was a rat’s nest of butchered wires behind the one I took out. I wrote down the following. I’ve excluded the speaker ...

Rebuilding a Pierburg 2e2 was my lockdown project last year. As said already, it’s worth doing. A lot of owners take what they believe to be the easy route and replace it with a Weber. IMHO this just leads to a different set of knotty problems. Before you lift a spanner take time to understand fully...

I don’t know what those wires are. They may be for optional equipment. If you have an electric aerial I think they had blue and green wires. Power on both raises the aerial, power on one lowers it.