I know this is an old thread, but those 3-point static rear seatbelts fitted to my late Mk2 Scirocco have always bugged me - untidy, a hassle to adjust, and when adjusted correctly, uncomfortable for the user. A couple of months ago I came across a couple of NOS inertia belts for sale at a very reas...

Can you provide a link?

what was the handbrake figures? on the test there should be parking brake figure and the foot brake figure, wondered if both tests highlighted an issue on one side or only on one part of the test? Good point, if the parking brake figures are reasonably balanced, that would suggest a hydraulic fault...

The horn circuit only feeds the horn, but take care removing the wiring as on first glance it looks as though the horn switching may be in the earth path in which case the horn wiring would be permanently live.

The fault is clearly only on one side, so it is unlikely to be related to the type of cylinder. It might be worth a quick visual check of the rear brake pipe in case it has accidentally been crushed or kinked at some point. If I was investigating it myself, I would probably first bleed at least quar...

Have the brakes been retested with the new cylinders? Unlike modern cars with ABS, the rear brakes are designed to minimise the risk the wheels locking, so they will never be as powerful as on a modern car. Did your mechanic fit the later type 17.5mm diameter cylinders or the earlier 14.3mm type? I'...

Do you have the Haynes manual? If you check the wiring diagram, you will see that one end of the indicator warning light is connected to Terminal 7 of Connector 7 (shown as a blue/red wire in the diagram, but could potentially have changed). The other end is connected via the internal circuit of the...

Have you done away with the original instrument cluster completely? If so, in addition to making sure you've correctly connected all the wires from the old multi-way connectors (looks to be about 12 wires?), you'd have to recreate some of the internal wiring of the instrument binnacle in order to co...

pull the hose off straight as I’ve snapped one off before and had to buy a new radiator… Good point, also before you pull, gently twist the hose to and fro over the nozzle with a pair of pliers to release its adhesion to the nozzle. Once you've done this, It's often easier to carefully push the hos...

Draining down the coolant would be an overkill, but you will get a minor spillage. Disconnect at the expansion tank end first, tie it up to the bonnet while still connected to the radiator. Connect the new hose to the expansion tank, then quickly swap over the hoses at the radiator end. Then run the...

Tell us about the history of the fault. Did the fault occur after you changed something, or did it just suddenly happen after everything was working fine?

The indicator led on the dash, is that the original led in the instrument cluster?

The flange seals will be fine as they just compress against the block The sensor seals look as though they have to slide in the gap between the sensor and the flange tube so lube definitely helps to seat them properly. Dilute washing up liquid is another alternative, or even just water, but not quit...

The sensors likely don't come with seals. The part number for the seals is N90316801. Look to be around a couple of £ each from VW. Use a silicone oil or similar to make sure the seals seat properly when the sensors are fitted.

mark1gls wrote: ↑Thu Sep 14, 2023 10:37 pm I think the flat bit goes on the bottom

Correct, just checked on mine

New O-rings shouldn't need sealant. Sealant is often used when an aged seal is disturbed but not replaced, so I'm guessing those parts have been refitted in the past. A high temperature sealant would be needed I would have thought in that case. It looks as though one of the fixing holes on the small...