never done a proper build thread before so apologizes if its crap
any way the plan is to turn my lame ass GT2 auto into a fire breathing 1.8 16v on twin 40's. the idea is to use as much of the doner car's (1xmk2 rocco GTD, 1xmk2 golf 1.3 converted to 16v) as is possible and try and make/fabricate as much as i can to keep costs down.
here are a few pics of the car when i got it...
next up was a set of wheels, step forward a set of RSL cults 15x7 front and 15x8 rear in orange...
then i had to sort out the ride height, so i fitted the coilovers from my old GTD scirocco and a set of 20mm spacers on the back...
then i fitted the pads and grooved discs from the golf, i also cleaned up and painted the calipers and carries to tidy it up a bit...
i've also degrease the engine bay...
and repainted a few of the rusty bits bobs black including the new steering rack (had to change this for the manual conversion...
(i'll update more pics of this when it stops raining)
also fitted my momo steering wheel...
i've fitted the manual gear selector and made the bit to fit the clutch to the steering rack, i'll up date this too when the rain gives up. hope this has been of some help to some one.
GT2 auto - 16v KR
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Section for all vehicle and related projects. Please keep responses pertinent to thread.
Section for all vehicle and related projects. Please keep responses pertinent to thread.
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Re: GT2 auto - 16v KR
i've been a busy little bee on this over the weekend,
started by finishing off the manual conversion, heres a quick guide to what i did. its pritty straightforward, like for like kinda thing. just disconnect the cable from the autobox to the shifter, remove gear nob thing and the plastic trim from around the shifter (this just prizes off with a flat ended screwdrivers) after that remove the plastic bit that surrounds the gear lever so your left with some thing like this (but with a auto stick of course)
you'll then see 3 ten mm headed bolts holding the base for the lever (there are 4 but you only need to undo 3 of them, think its the one closest to the hand brake and the 2 furthest away). with a little bit of persuasion it should come loose and pull straight out. when refitting the manual gear selector i found it easier to jack the front of the car up so you have clearance for the shaft that goes to the steering rack, also make sure the shaft has gone between the chassis and the anti-roll bar before bolting the selector base back down.
next up is the steering rack, you'll need to fit one from a manual as this has part of the gear selection mechanism on it as this pic shows
next up was the clutch lever, i was told that the steering rack from a manual was needed but on closer inspection i realized this wasn't true, the auto one doesn't have the pin to hold the lever on but it does have the holes that the pin goes through, as seen in this pics
i'm not sure if the pin from the manual rack is removable (i had scrapped the doner car by this point), so i just made another pin at work (being an engineer can have its perks), i used the pin that holds the brake lever as a guide as this is exactly the same as what you would need but shorter as shown here, clutch one top brake one bottom
(its 2 and a quarter inch from the inside of the lip to the groove at the other end in case any one is interested)
then its just a case of slotting it together and using the same kind of clip that holds the brake lever pin in place
there's still the issue of the wiring that goes to the auto shifter that stop's the car from being started in any thing other than 'park'. to sort this all you need to do is take this plug ( found by the fuse box)
the wires on one side go to the gear selector and the wires on the the other side go to the engine bay/fuse box, just unplug this and join the wire that comes in from the bay to the one that goes to the fuse box.
started by finishing off the manual conversion, heres a quick guide to what i did. its pritty straightforward, like for like kinda thing. just disconnect the cable from the autobox to the shifter, remove gear nob thing and the plastic trim from around the shifter (this just prizes off with a flat ended screwdrivers) after that remove the plastic bit that surrounds the gear lever so your left with some thing like this (but with a auto stick of course)
you'll then see 3 ten mm headed bolts holding the base for the lever (there are 4 but you only need to undo 3 of them, think its the one closest to the hand brake and the 2 furthest away). with a little bit of persuasion it should come loose and pull straight out. when refitting the manual gear selector i found it easier to jack the front of the car up so you have clearance for the shaft that goes to the steering rack, also make sure the shaft has gone between the chassis and the anti-roll bar before bolting the selector base back down.
next up is the steering rack, you'll need to fit one from a manual as this has part of the gear selection mechanism on it as this pic shows
next up was the clutch lever, i was told that the steering rack from a manual was needed but on closer inspection i realized this wasn't true, the auto one doesn't have the pin to hold the lever on but it does have the holes that the pin goes through, as seen in this pics
i'm not sure if the pin from the manual rack is removable (i had scrapped the doner car by this point), so i just made another pin at work (being an engineer can have its perks), i used the pin that holds the brake lever as a guide as this is exactly the same as what you would need but shorter as shown here, clutch one top brake one bottom
(its 2 and a quarter inch from the inside of the lip to the groove at the other end in case any one is interested)
then its just a case of slotting it together and using the same kind of clip that holds the brake lever pin in place
there's still the issue of the wiring that goes to the auto shifter that stop's the car from being started in any thing other than 'park'. to sort this all you need to do is take this plug ( found by the fuse box)
the wires on one side go to the gear selector and the wires on the the other side go to the engine bay/fuse box, just unplug this and join the wire that comes in from the bay to the one that goes to the fuse box.
Last edited by RoccoGuy on Sun May 03, 2009 10:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 105
- Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 10:25 pm
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Nuneaton
Re: GT2 auto - 16v KR
i've also fitted the volt gauge from my old GT as this didn't have one (not wired it in yet tho as the dash is coming out this week)
but most importantly i've got the engine fitted, all the mounts are just bolt up although i did have to take the cam belt off to fit the engine one so used this as an excuse to fit a new one
i've also fitted a twin fan radiator from a seat toleado TD
fits nicely (well it would do if i could find the bits to bolt it on hence the zip tie), i'm gonna have to mdoifie the pipe work to fit as well but that should be easy enough with a couple of bits of alloy piping.
i've got a wiring loom from an early mk2 16v so i'm just gonna rob the bits off that that i need like the fuel pump and injection wiring then leave the rest of my loom original. although this will need changing again once i get the twin 40's for it any way. as for the exhaust i'll be using the standard 16v mani with a home brow down pipe using the 16v joining bracket to help prevent cracking.
that's it for now
but most importantly i've got the engine fitted, all the mounts are just bolt up although i did have to take the cam belt off to fit the engine one so used this as an excuse to fit a new one
i've also fitted a twin fan radiator from a seat toleado TD
fits nicely (well it would do if i could find the bits to bolt it on hence the zip tie), i'm gonna have to mdoifie the pipe work to fit as well but that should be easy enough with a couple of bits of alloy piping.
i've got a wiring loom from an early mk2 16v so i'm just gonna rob the bits off that that i need like the fuel pump and injection wiring then leave the rest of my loom original. although this will need changing again once i get the twin 40's for it any way. as for the exhaust i'll be using the standard 16v mani with a home brow down pipe using the 16v joining bracket to help prevent cracking.
that's it for now
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Re: GT2 auto - 16v KR
been busy sorting all the little bits and bobs, the wiring is all sorted, breaks are working, ect, ect. had it running but with no exhaust and no piping on the rad so could give it a proper run but that should be sorted today.
injection pump is plumbed in as well (albeit a bit bodged, but its only till i get the carbs), there was no way the pump from the golf was going to fit where the scirocco pump would sit so it got moved to the spare wheel well.
looks fine once the carpet and seats are back in tho.
uprated the front speakers, still need to pick another set up for the back
i've got the piping i need to extend the hoses for the rad and we'll be knocking up a full exhaust system using bits of pipe from the scirocco, golf and a seat ibiza my mate has until i find a cheap second hand 4 branch. it should be drivable today and hopefully have a mot by next weekend.
injection pump is plumbed in as well (albeit a bit bodged, but its only till i get the carbs), there was no way the pump from the golf was going to fit where the scirocco pump would sit so it got moved to the spare wheel well.
looks fine once the carpet and seats are back in tho.
uprated the front speakers, still need to pick another set up for the back
i've got the piping i need to extend the hoses for the rad and we'll be knocking up a full exhaust system using bits of pipe from the scirocco, golf and a seat ibiza my mate has until i find a cheap second hand 4 branch. it should be drivable today and hopefully have a mot by next weekend.
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- Posts: 105
- Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 10:25 pm
- fill in the right answer: 10
- Location: Nuneaton
Re: GT2 auto - 16v KR
after doing this a couple of weeks back
this has been put on a bit of a back shelf while i got some bits for it, this is what i've been doing today
twin 45's now fitted
still need a fuel pump and regulator but have had it running on just the tank lifter pump, its only got a a straight through bodged together exhaust on it with no back box so can't really hear much much induction noise over it, but it is very raspy lol
also got a 4 branch for it now just gotta make the rest of the exhaust
this has been put on a bit of a back shelf while i got some bits for it, this is what i've been doing today
twin 45's now fitted
still need a fuel pump and regulator but have had it running on just the tank lifter pump, its only got a a straight through bodged together exhaust on it with no back box so can't really hear much much induction noise over it, but it is very raspy lol
also got a 4 branch for it now just gotta make the rest of the exhaust