It depends wholly on what you want! You can get the engine in and running using 20v clocks relatively easily, it gets a bit more involved if you want to use your original clocks. Google is your friend :) If you want to do the conversion i'd recommend getting a donor car as at least you know all the parts work together.. there are many 20v parts variations between the different engine codes.
So after bailing on my bmx before xmas i currently look like this:
I fractured my heel and i have to gaffa tape a bin liner around my cast so that i can shower. Just as well i don't have any hair on my chicken legs.
Not a whole lot to update I'm afraid. There's very much a plan to get this car running really sweet for when the dryer/warmer weather comes in the spring and I really really really really really just want to drive the car on as many trips as I can this year.
I have finally managed to sort out correcting the steering geometry.. yay! You've heard of low and slow? This car is going to be LOW AND FAST!!! As it should be!!
When you lower a car past a certain point you are undoing most of the good work the manufacturer has done to make the car handle well. Centre of gravity is increased and stiffer springs mean you feel cornering forces sooner but suspension travel is reduced, and the wishbones and track rods are now at mad angles. Every time the suspension compresses or expands over bumps it causes the steering geometry to change as the track rods are effectively getting shorter and longer. The effect is that you need to constantly make tiny steering inputs to correct this, it's called bump steer.
The other thing that happens when the front wishbone/tie rod angles change with lowering is that the imaginary pivot point at which the body rolls around corners goes lower. This means on my standard lowered roc I increased the body roll of the car. Of course stiffer springs work against this body roll, but the original forces trying to roll the body of the car are still there.
The solution to all this is to return the wishbone and tie rod angles back to what they were at the factory.. minimising bump steer and reducing body roll around corners. The way to do this on a Roc is to run a spacer between the wishbone ball joints and the lower hub mounting points, and to flip the track rods upside down...
To flip the track rods you need to drill out the tapered holes in the hub from 13mm to 17mm. You then press in these inserts that are internally tapered: (please excuse the crappy photos!)
I've also got some shiney new drilled and grooved 256mm brake discs :)
And the track rod is flipped!
To space the wishbones I used some of these 25mm ball joint extenders that awkwardly need a 7mm allen key (lost my original photo as I dropped my iPhone in a drum of machine coolant :/)
You can just about make out the fitment in this photo...
It'll just need the camber and toe reset now. I've now done all that I can to keep this car low but handle well, with the front and rear mounting points changed to regain suspension travel and now the front wishbone geometry rectification. Can't wait to see what it drives like.
I need to replace those rusty wishbones when I can walk uncrippled again..