GTX To do list

[00mike00]

Hi guys, following from my first post in the general section, I wanted ask the group about the GTX.
I had a GT before, the 1.6. I really got to know the engine and running gear…having to change the gearbox as well.
With the GTX, is there anything I should know? I haven’t picked up the car yet but I’m trying to put together a list of things to pay attention to, if anything.
I know the car needs discs and pads but apart from that, she’s had a service with timing belt so I’m off to a good start I guess. I can’t remember too much about it now but how do you guys solve the issue of corrosion in the fuel filler neck and the tank?

Cheers

[BlackGTX]

warm up reg can be an issue leading to lumpy starting and idle till warm

other than that its all quite easy. some peopele mod a mk1 golf filler neck to fit others repair and paint the old

[mark1gls]

If you can check and save the old the filler neck that would be best, if you remove it, clean it, repair it, re paint it with lots of stone chip paint, waxoyl it and clean/wash it twice a year it should last another 20/30 years.
The filler necks are difficult to get hold of and there was talk of stainless steel ones being made but nothing at the right price yet only a few 2nd hand ones about if you are lucky.

You can look inside the fuel tank and check for rust, leave a magnet in the tank and that will catch any other bit's floating about, new fuel tanks are available for about £120.

You need to change the fuel filter regularly as if dirt and grit gets into the fuel system it causes all sorts of problems.

The injection system is very reliable and works well if looked after, my Mk1 golf with a DX engine (same as yours) has covered 281,000 miles and It's never let me down in the 220,000 miles I've cover in it.

Other things off the top of my head....
Change the gearbox oil if you don't know when it was last done, synthetic oil works well.
Change coolant regular if using "normal coolant"
Change brake fluid every 3 years and manually adjust the auto adjuster in the rear drums as the adjuster does not always work well, this make a huge difference to the feel of the pedal.
Make sure a new cam belt tensioner was fitted with the new cam belt.

[00mike00]

If you can check and save the old the filler neck that would be best, if you remove it, clean it, repair it, re paint it with lots of stone chip paint, waxoyl it and clean/wash it twice a year it should last another 20/30 years.
The filler necks are difficult to get hold of and there was talk of stainless steel ones being made but nothing at the right price yet only a few 2nd hand ones about if you are lucky.

That sounds like a plan, is there any online guide to the process of reconditioning this filler neck?

You can look inside the fuel tank and check for rust, leave a magnet in the tank and that will catch any other bit's floating about, new fuel tanks are available for about £120.

I do remember the hassle I had with mine, not improved by me running the tank low.
I had the tank cut open, cleaned and welded back together for about 80 quid.

Thanks for the rest of the info, very useful.

[mark1gls]

I don't run mine low on fuel, I always get to 1/4 tank and then put some petrol in, it still takes over £40 to fill it up from 1/4 tank.

With my filler neck brushed it down with a wire brush and treated any rust patches or weld up any holes. I then cleaned it and painted it with Rust Busters epoxy mastic, then used some stone chip paint from a rattle can, then brush painted it with waxoyl, let the waxoyl harden for a couple of days then fit it and used a bit more waxoyl on the bits I rubbed off with my hand.

At the very least before and after the winter I get a hose and wash underneath the wheel arch and around the filler neck, get my hand up there and make sure it's clean of mud, it's at the top you have to really worry about as the mud sits on top of the filler neck as it makes a good mud trap. Once clean I get a torch and have a good look around for any signs of rust and touch up any marks/paint chips then brush on some more waxoyl.

Expoy mastic.
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust ... nt/c28117/#

[00mike00]

With my filler neck brushed it down with a wire brush and treated any rust patches or weld up any holes. I then cleaned it and painted it with Rust Busters epoxy mastic, then used some stone chip paint from a rattle can, then brush painted it with waxoyl, let the waxoyl harden for a couple of days then fit it and used a bit more waxoyl on the bits I rubbed off with my hand.

This is great, thanks. I can clearly see the filler neck when it’s up on the ramp. I have access to a ramp now so I will have to do this.
Are there clips etc that a prone to being destroyed when doing this? Is it simply a case of undoing and pulling down from where it’s situated?

Thanks again

[00mike00]

Expoy mastic.
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust ... nt/c28117/#

This stuff looks great! I've just been watching and listening to the videos and I'd be up for getting some of this for the underside of the car.
Have you used this on larger areas before, sills etc? I'd like to get under the car, wire brush and clean some areas off before applying this.

[mark1gls]

To remove the filler neck just undo the bolts holding it to the car, the tricky bit is if they are very rusty and you can have problems with the jubilee clip on the rubber hose going to the fuel tank, you can buy new rubber hose so it may be worth fitting a new bit while the filler neck is off the car and buy 2 new jubilee clips.

If the car is jacked up at the back and the petrol gauge is just on the red you should not have any problem with petrol pouring out of the tank when you remove the old pipe, make sure you tie an old rubber glove (or similar) over the end of the fuel tank hole to stop dirt getting in there and petrol fumes escaping.

Check the length of your old hose as there is a couple of lengths.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK1-G ... SwD0lUkVOy

The Mk1 golf and Mk1 Scirocco only has 1 bolt holding the filler neck on and 3 screws around the top, the Mk2 Scirocco has 1 bolt in the same place as Mk1's and a Bracket and I think bolt at the top, have a good look at the bracket as these usually rust away and leave a hole in the wheel tub.

Test fit on Mk1 Golf, you can see the bottom bolt.


Final fit with new rubber hose and jubilee clips, plenty of waxoyl as the Mk1 Golf is my daily drive.


Expoy mastic,

Yes I've painted lots of bits on my car, my rear beam, wishbones, engine mounts, rear brake backing plate, floor pan, and along the sills but I did get it over painted with the rubberized stone chip paint along the sills but my Mk1 has exposed sills but your mk2 has a body kit to take most of the hits from stones.

It's good stuff and it can be over painted with a colour of your choice if needed. You do need to make sure the surface you paint is free of oil and grease or you can have problems with it sticking.