fiting a weber ( a rough guide )

[gt2]

i do have pictures on a photobucket account, but some reason new forum will not accept
mod get in touch ?



If you're reading this guide, you're probably fed up of that old Pierburg 2E carburettor you currently have in your Volkswagen Scirocco.

Which Weber carburettor do I need?
For a 1.6 or 1.8 Volkswagen Scirocco, you will need the Weber 32/34 DMTL carburettor.


What will I need to install my Weber carburettor?
· Set of spanners
· Set of allan-keys
· Socket set
· Set of flathead and starhead screwdrivers
· Wire cutters
· Pair of pliers



How long will it take to fit my carburettor?
That depends on how good you are with cars. It took me about 4 hours to fit mine, but I frequently had to take photos of each stage for you guys!



STAGE 1
Check to make sure you have all the bits and pieces you need to install the new carburettor. You should have:
The carburettor
Vacuum pipe
Base adaptor
Accelerator anchor bracket (manual gearbox)
Accelerator anchor bracket (automatic gearbox)
Heater element mounting block
2 Screws (M5 x 17)
Return spring bracket
3 Screws (M
5 x 12)
<2 M6 Allen cap screws
Shouldered stud M6/M8
4 M8 Nuts
3 Studs (M8 x 30)
Base gasket
Air filter adaptor gasket
Air filter adaptor
4 M5 c Sunk Screws
4 M8 Washers
4 M8 Spring Washers
Return Spring
Swivel ferrule (manual gearbox only)
Fuel line 6mm x 46cm
4 Fuel line clips (11mm)
Fuel Filter
Choke cable
Choke cable mounting plate
Choke cable mounting bracket
3 Screws
2 Extension Studs
M5 Stud
M5 Nut
M5 Nyloc Nut
Air Filter (Plenum) bracket
Washer (5mm)
Flanged sleeve boss
Cap screw M8 x 12mm


STAGE 2
First off, we will remove the air filter from the Pierburg. To do this, you will need to undo a bolt at the front of the black plastic supporting the air filter onto the carburettor. Unclip the clips on the sides of the casing. There are 4 in total ' 2 at the top and 2 at the sides. With these disconnected, unplug any cables or wires attached to the air filter.
With this black casing removed, your engine bay should look something like this. To remove the remaining part of the air filter, we need to flip down a metal bar which holds the filter into place. Simply push the lever up and over, releasing the casing.

STAGE 3
With the air filter completely removed, we can begin removing pipes from the Pierburg. However, before we can do this we must release any pressure still left inside the cooling system. To do this, carefully remove the coolant reservoir cap from the bottle.
NOTE: If the car has been running for a while, let it cool down a bit first. The coolant can get very hot and cause serious injury if the cap is removed straight after the engine has been running. Once the cap has been off for a few minutes, you may put it back on the bottle.

STAGE 4
Now the pressure is gone from the cooling system, let's remove some pipes. You will see a pipe on the side of the carburettor which we will need remove. To remove this pipe, undo the jubilee clip to loosen the hold. The pipe should now come off with a wiggle and a tug.
STAGE 5
For this step, all we need to do is disconnect the fuel line. This is done in the same way that the pipe was removed from the carburettor in Stage 4. Undo the jubilee clip and wiggle the pipe out. Upon removing the pipe, a little bit of petrol will drizzle out, although it's nothing to be concerned about. 'Here is a close up image of the pipe removed:

STAGE 6
At the side of the Pierburg carburettor (Right side) you will see two pipes leading in. We need to remove one of these pipes. In the same way we removed pipes in Stage 4 & 5, undo the jubilee clip on the back pipe. Some coolant will drip out of the pipe but this is nothing to worry about.
STAGE 7
Like the previous stages, we are still removing pipes from the existing carburettor. The next pipe is located near the front of the carb, but it's a little tricky to get to. Remove the clip in the same way we have done over the past few stages. Again, if any fluid is emitted don't panic, it's normal.
STAGE 8
Now we have a few pipes and cables out of the way it will be a little easier to remove the accelerator cable from the fitting. The accelerator cable has a black casing around it which is held secure with a piece of metal shaped a bit like a horse-shoe. Push this upwards and it will pop out of the metal holder. Un-hook the cable from the carburettor.
STAGE 9
This stage entails removing cables needed by the Pierburg's auto-choke. It's a relatively simple step ' just remove the cable from the green reservoir leading to the carburettor. The cable is shown in the photo below:

The green reservoir on the left side of the engine bay can be removed and discarded, because it is no longer needed. Removing the green reservoir will also give us some more space to work with.

STAGE 10
Most of the carburettor should now be disconnected, so we will now unbolt the unit so it can be removed. You should see three bolts securing the Pierburg into the manifold. I found the socket set very useful here. In the picture below, I have unbolted two of them, and one is half way out:

STAGE 11
With the Pierburg carburettor unbolted, it gives us easier access to the wires around the carb. We need to disconnect anything holding the carb down. There are two cables going into the left side of the carburettor ' these both need to be unplugged. There are also other various cables which need unplugging. You will also find that some wires are bundled together with rat-tails or cable-ties. Simply cut these with your wire-cutters.
Be sure to pull the earth wire from the spade terminal located on the manifold. Sorry, I couldn't get a photo of this at the time but it's this brown wire
STAGE 12
Time to take out the trash! Pull out the old carburettor by lifting it upwards. If you find it gets stuck on anything it may be because there are wires, pipes or cable-ties which have not yet been taken care of. Take the Pierburg and keep it nearby - we need a part from it to attach to the Weber.

STAGE 13
This isn't really a stage, it's more of a 'Checkup' to make sure everything is ok. With the Pierburg carburettor removed your engine bay should look something like this:

.

STAGE 14
We need to prepare the plates so the new Weber carburettor sits correctly on the manifold. We need to bolt three things to the silver plate:
Accelerator anchor bracket
Heater element mounting block
Return spring bracket


STAGE 15
Now we need to transfer the Heater Element from the Pierburg to the Weber. This isn't a difficult job, but it took me a while to find the element on the Pierburg. The heater element is like a little cylinder with a black wire connected to it. I didn't take a photo of it when I found it, but when I removed it. My finger points to where it previously sat:
Once taken off, attach the heater element to the silver plate on the Weber like so:

STAGE 16
We need to re-route one of our pipes before we can continue with the work. We also need to re-attach a cable and bung up a hole. A coolant pipe needs to run from the cooling system to the manifold. See the two pipes in the photo in STAGE 13? Well, those need to 'come together'. We'll remove the shortest pipe and use the longer to run to the other hole. We also need to reconnect the red wire. There'll be a hole left where we removed a few cables from the Pierburg ' bung this up with the rubber stud included in the kit. When you're done, everything should look like this:

STAGE 17
Time to bolt on the plate. Place the silver plate on top of the opening on the manifold and bolt it down. You'll need to use two nuts to bolt the base down. Once you've done this, your work should like this (The bolt at the lower left should be slightly higher than the three others):
Now put on the gasket by sliding it over the top:
STAGE 18
Place the Weber carburettor onto the base and bolt it down tightly. Place the air filter adaptor onto the top of the new carburettor and screw it down so it fits nice and snug. When you're done, you should end up with the following:


STAGE 19
Now the Weber carburettor is in place, we can start setting it up. Re-attach the earth wire. It should fit the same way as it did with the Pierburg. Also, clip the Return Spring onto the accelerator arm so that it moves back into place when the accelerator is used. Finally, reconnect the accelerator cable onto the carburettor using the Horseshoe piece and the accelerator pulley.

STAGE 20
Let's reconnect the fuel line. This is really easy to do ' simply connect one end of the pipe to the engine and the other end to the carburettor as demonstrated in the photo below:
STAGE 21
Before installing the choke, insulate any loose wire ends you have. It's essential that you do this because a fire could start if the end touches something it shouldn't.

STAGE 22
From inside the car unscrew and remove the shelving unit below the steering wheel. This will give you access to a blanking plate to the lower left of the steering wheel. When you have removed the shelves, use a star-head screwdriver to unbolt the screw holding in the blanking plate. This is quite a fiddly job and took me about 15 minutes to do. It's easiest to shove your whole body in the footwell to get a decent view of the area. Once the blanking plate is removed, push the choke pulley through and bolt it in. Now thread the choke cable through a hole just above the footwell. You may need to remove a rubber grommet to do this. Once the cable is through, feed it on the rest of the way.
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STAGE 23
All we need to do now is attach the choke to the carburettor. Once you have done this, snip off the remaining slack with the wire cutters. That's it! All done! All we need to do now is fit the breather hoses back onto the sides of the new carb and fit the air filter back on.

[the edmundator]

Good stuff, hopefully the pics can be added soon. I might end up doing this myself soon.

[graeme]

just fitted mine and gave it a ryte good old service...mine has made such a difference it goes really well now

[scratchfree]

WE NEED PICSSSS

[gt2]

Pics been sent to anthony who is putting it in the faq section, hes a busy lad so it should be up soon with the pics

if you want any help with anythinf in particular drop me a message and i will try and help

[walkinginperu]

anyone else find that with the weber fitted the airbox sits a bit higher than it did before? Mine is about an inch higher I guess, and therefore the little bracket that mounts to the front of the airbox doesn't sit in the right place anymore. Any ideas?

[Andy_S_T]

Yep, it mentions it in the instructions. There should have been a couple of spacers in the original kit to raise the front mount. I have the instructions as a pdf that I could email you if you want.

Andy

[walkinginperu]

Thanks for the offer Andy, but I'm OK. Fabbed a little ali bracket at work to make it fit, just wanted to make sure that my carb was fitted wrongly!

[scratchfree]

when these images coming?? could really do with them as my weber comes any day

[MattR2020]

Hi Gt2, rough guide. Can you send me picz plz. I'm currently under taking the same job. My main concern is rerouting the coolant.

[MattR2020]

Fitted weber, kinda rushed job in honesty. Now I'm a little concerned, I fitted heating element to carb base plate but I'm unsure where to plug the heating element in now. As I know two or three leads from left hand side will be redundant, there is one lead off back of manifold and There is also a red plug coming from right hand side near 3 way coolant pipes which used to fit onto 2e2 carb! Anyway the way I did it was connected the plug off rear of manifold to the heating element on my weber, ingored previous connections on left hand side of car and ignored red cap plug from right hand side (which connected to pierburg)!!!
Car started up okay and sounded beautiful, I rerouted the coolant hose also direct to the manifold but lost alot of coolant in the process (stupid mistake) when I started to test and car for a minute it started smoking so I turned it off. I presume it was lack of coolant in the manifold making smoke as it was burning out or perhaps I'd put a wire in the wrong place. I'm buying coolant tomorrow.
I also still need to fit the manual choke and know how to do it but I could only locate one exisiting hole with a rubber bung in (located just above gear linkage looking down near the brake servo) centre of car. To me it seems quite far away for sure and I would think the choke is better situated coming over rocker cover to left hand side (looking face on) , not to mention the length involved etc. So I'm asking through what hole should I send the air choke? I'm guessing from experience someone knows better than me, I have never installed a carb until just

ANY help welcome plz

[Eagle1]

Have look under the bonnet.(facing the rear of the car). Where the speedo cable comes out. There is a grommet to the right. Miss this one out. There is another one to the right in line with the fuel entry hose to the Weber carb. That's where my choke cable comes out. It then loops round. PM me an email and I'll send a picture over.

[MattR2020]

Thanks for reply, I have now fitted choke cable for weber, it closes the butterfly flap so I presume that is all good. Mounted air filter back on too and rerouted electrical cables from my last try.
Four cables from left hand side of carb, two with large rubber over ends are ignored (not in use), red and white cable I have put to manifold intake heater connection and other cable has been connected to heater element mounted on the front on weber base plate.
Coolant topped up.
Turned engine on and started great, idle'ing at around 1800/2000 and pressed accelerator, let go and car was then idle'ing around 3000.
Car again smoking around top of manifold with burning smell. Turned off instantly.

Again I'm not sure if coolant is not going through, rpm is set to high or intake element is buggered.
I'm honestly clueless.

Also after starting engine do I then push back choke in?

[mark1gls]

Don’t worry about plugging in the carb heater Just yet as it’s needed to stop the carb icing up in cold weather so at this time of the year it’s not needed. My Mk1 Scirocco does not have a carb heater and it runs fine in the winter months. Once you have it running fine then check which wire you need to plug in. Sorry can’t help....

There is a small rubber O ring connecting the inlet manifold on the head which can leak so check that’s not where the leak is?
I believe it sits between cylinder 3 and 4 and looks like this.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK1- ... Swyode~bJd

Idle speed to high, hot idle should be around 900 - 1000 rpm.
With the choke, pull it out the start the car and slowly push it in a little as the car warms up, when 1st started should run at approx 1500rpm if higher then push the choke in a little. When moving and the car starts to warms up push the choke in a little more, once my temperature gauge is above the 1st line I push it all the way in. If driving along a quite road and you aren’t stopping or starting you could push the choke in before the 1st line. On my drive I would say the choke it out for about 10 minutes, about 5 mins all the way out then slowly pushed in. I do start my car then put on seat belt, switch the radio on, have a little drink etc then move off so the car can idle for a minute or longer before moving off.

You will get used to it and if the car bogs down when pulling away when cold you need more choke and as the weather gets colder you may need to run for longer before pushing it in.
Don’t drive long distances with the choke out or you will be using more fuel and over fueling the engine.

[jskinner97]

No pics?