Pierburg Manual Auto Differences

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WreckTangle
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Pierburg Manual Auto Differences

Post by WreckTangle » Sat Aug 22, 2020 3:52 pm

I am attempting to resurrect a Pierburg 2E2 to fit to my 1.8 GT2 Auto which is currently sporting a Weber fitted for a previous owner. Irrespective of the pros and cons of these rival carburettors my aim is to restore the car to stock.

I have got two units. One the, I believe, correct 027 129 015Q and the other 027 129 016H originally from a 1.6 but which had been fitted to a 1.8 Golf by the person from whom I acquired it. My plan is to strip down, clean and reassemble the 027 129 015Q and to use the other unit to replace any broken parts from the first. This is proving to be a sound strategy since the latter was recently removed from a working car and the one I want to reuse appears to have been stored for a while and consequently had some severely rusted screws some of which are not in the best condition.

There are a few subtle differences between these two units and I am trying to establish definitively the features that are different on cars with automatic transmission.

So far I have established that autos use a four point vacuum unit whereas manuals (without aircon) have a three point unit. This is indeed the case on my carbs.

There are references online to them using different “brackets”. I have yet to establish what this means.

I think the throttle levers are different. They are on the ones I’ve got. The manual transmission type appears to be as per the drawing (part 21) whereas the corresponding part for the auto is as pictured. Is this a known difference? I can find no online references to the part number on the auto part - 338857B.

Any further information on these queries or any other known differences between the manual and auto carbs gratefully received.
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unknownmale
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Re: Pierburg Manual Auto Differences

Post by unknownmale » Sat Aug 22, 2020 4:15 pm

Yeah, the linkages are very different. If the weber was fitted correctly you should still have the kickdown spring and correct cable coming from the auto box.

Here is a picture of the linakge - https://www.clubgti.com/forums/proxy.ph ... 947f2d70e1


- David

WreckTangle
Posts: 43
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2017 6:16 pm
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Re: Pierburg Manual Auto Differences

Post by WreckTangle » Sat Aug 22, 2020 10:47 pm

Thanks. That’s very helpful.

I had a little bit of trouble with the link and had to copy and paste it into my browser. This is a direct link to the same picture.

https://vwts.ru/images/repair/5687_02.jpg

I also then found these pictures online showing the throttle linkage connected. I now know what to check is attached to the Weber.
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WreckTangle
Posts: 43
Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2017 6:16 pm
fill in the right answer: 15

Re: Pierburg Manual Auto Differences

Post by WreckTangle » Tue Nov 17, 2020 2:18 pm

My project to restore a Pierburg 2e2 for my 1991 GTII 1.8 Auto is nearing completion. The latest weird problem being that the plastic tube that the pin operated by the waxstat resides in had "shrunk" causing the pin to stick badly. This, it transpired, was due to leaking coolant calcifying between the plastic and the metal. Repair involved chipping the plastic out in pieces, cleaning the hole with a Dremel and replacing the plastic liner.

A more fundamental issue is whether the original carb would have had the additional (bulkhead mounted?) vacuum solenoid connected to the pink port on the four-point unit. I can find no evidence that this was ever fitted to my car. I understood that 1.6 Autos didn't have it and 1.8 Autos did; its purpose being to raise the revs at idle when Drive is engaged. However, the Haynes manual seems to associate this circuit only with air conditioning.

Does anyone know for sure whether this vacuum circuit would have originally existed on a late 1.8 rocco?

Given I press ahead with installing the Pierburg without the second vacuum solenoid would it be better to fit a three-point unit (I have one somewhere) or the "correct" four-point unit and blank-off the pink circuit? The latter would make it easier to add/reinstate the additional circuit in the future but I only really want to do this if it was an original feature.

Thoughts welcome, especially from anyone who's got access to an unmolested 1.8 Auto and is able to check whether there are two or three vacuum tubes connected to their 3/4-point unit.

Thanks.