You might find some helpful information here, although possibly not quite the model you're dealing with and in German. http://www.ruddies.business.t-online.de/342b5.htm https://www.ruddies-berlin.de/se2B5Volvo.htm When rebuilding my 2e2, I found the Haynes manual referred to above and the original P...

If you want to be OCD about it, I photographed mine as I took it off. IMG_7522.jpeg Personally, I prefer the older, four button steering wheel. IMG_7533.jpeg The older steering wheels use a small spline so it is necessary to remove the large spline adapter. Also you need a plastic spacer to place ov...

I found the Weber fitted by a previous owner of my 1.8EX to troublesome. I also didn't like the manual choke; although it was quirkily retro it seemed an anachronism on a car made at the pinnacle of carburettor technology. I therefore refurbished a Pierburg 2e2 and have been using it happily since. ...

I still think your problems are likely to be due to an inlet manifold vacuum leak. If your carb flange is leaking, bearing in mind the actual holes can be very hard to spot, then it will be leaning out the mixture which will itself cause running problems and also cause the engine to run hot thus exa...

My experience is more with the later 2e2 carb, but some of the same principles will apply. Have you checked the state of your fuel filler neck? These deteriorate and allow rust into the fuel tank irrespective of the condition of the actual tank. In severe cases they can develop holes which then allo...

In the course of getting my GT2 to run reliably I had the tank cleaned out and a new filler neck installed. I subsequently had the fuel sender out myself (hence the photo I added to your other thread) and confirmed that the tank was spotless inside. However, I still occasionally got the effects you ...

Apologies, I know no one likes to be told “I told you so”, but read my final comment in post 10 in your thread about excessive fuel pressure and getting your fuel return line working again. An immediate fix which will probably get you home is to block off the fuel return altogether and run the Weber...

Recently I had to restart my Scirocco after about a year of not using it. The fuel lines had completely dried out and no amount of cranking would get the flow started. I resorted to using an oil suction gun (like a large syringe) on the fuel line before the mechanical fuel pump. I was surprised how ...

Those metal fuel separators are fairly cheap. No harm trying a replacement if yours is behaving oddly. It should remain full of fuel with excess going back down the return line whilst providing a constant supply via a pick-up to the carburettor. However, I refer you to my first post in this thread w...

1. Remove the shelf in the driver's footwell. There is one screw on the left hand side. Two on the right and one going up into the panel above. The shelf then pulls forward and out. 2. Remove the driver's kick panel. There are three plastic push-rivets along the rear edge (nearest the driver) and tw...

If your fuel line still runs over the top of the engine that can be a source of heat. Some people fit a longer fuel line from the vapour separator to the carburetor so it can be routed away from the engine. If you're planning on stripping down the carb anyway you can obviously check the height of th...

I did not get on with the Weber fitted by the previous owner and restored mine to using a Pierburg. One of the established "tricks" to making a Weber function is to restrict the fuel return line. If this has been done in such a way that you no longer have a functioning return line then I s...

I had some issues trying to access a part directly under the middle of one of my other classics. In the end what worked was jacking the front (left) corner higher than usual and putting a couple of axle stands in appropriate locations for safety. I normally prefer to use ramps, but in that instance ...

I attempted the replacement of the rear silencer this afternoon. It did not go well. I was unable to separate the rear section from the middle part. I had to cut the bolt through the clamp as despite plenty of wire-brushing, heating, oiling and using an impact wrench it was rusted solid. That kind o...

So, when I bought my replacement LCD a couple of years ago I bought two in order to have a spare. I checked the spare and, lo and behold, it had a plastic film over it. So tonight’s job was redoing the whole blooming job to remove that. If there is one takeaway from this thread it’s to check new LCD...